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ok so with everything ive been looking at and the other turbo builds it would be less money and less work to do a engine bay turbo but i wont to do a gt35 water and oil and which heat sleve for the turbo would i use the t3 or t4 im going to just make some custom headers not the log style they seem not very efficient
but look at this chart at the bottom of the page talking about coking ur turbo
What about it, gives the info for water cooled vs. not , and about coking.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
just putting it out there for anyone to see because i wouldnt have spent so much time looking at just oil and oil/water turbo i would just go with water/oil and not think about useing just oil
Yes thats true, if your in a hot state then oil/water is a good idea. Another good one is ceramic bearings over journal bearings. Garrett uses ceramic bearings in there turbos, nice upgrade over journal bearings. You can go on Garretts website and get info off their site, alot of good info.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Ah ok, I was under the impression that it was just water. But the water is a supplement to oil for cooling purposes. Don't know why I didn't think about lubrication. Makes sense now :)
as soon as i buy the flanges from ssms5411 i will start on the headers,so there is a plus for haveing one more year of highschool left with a auto tech class with everything i could need like in auto tech 3 first semester i get to drop my engine out of my car and tear it down and build it back up for a grade haha nothings better than that
haha we built this drag car after school with our auto tech teacher old drag car and a 383 stroker the school baught , 3 speed power glide 9 in rearend and 150 shot of nos
but look at this chart at the bottom of the page talking about coking ur turbo
You shouldn't have any coking problems with a rear mounted turbo. The system you linked is a twin front mount setup, where the turbos are located directly under hot headers in a hot engine bay, where coking is more likely to happen. For that reason, I don't think you'll need to worry about getting a water-cooled turbo. It would just be another line and water system to keep track of. If you're really concerned about coking, just sit in the car and let it idle for an extra minute or two to cool off. No need for a turbo timer or anything like that either.
Also, if you're still unsure about what kind of turbo to get, look into reading compressor maps. That will be the key to finding the right size turbo for your rear mount setup and finding one with optimal spool characteristics.
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