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Wow very cool Turbovert01 turbovert01, very tight indeed. I'm sure I could have figured a way to sneak it through. I'm more concerned about overall weight of the car. So removing the exhaust completely was a huge bonus.
The filter will work just fine for the power level I'm looking for. I doubt it would become e restriction until about 700hp. Wont be at the level anytime soon lol. This setup will be good for 430whp. Not sure I'll want more than that for road course.
Be careful with filter sizing for turbo applications it has a different formula than N/A cars, they suck ALOT of air lol. A book I read called "real world high-performance turbocharger systems" gives this formula:
CFM = (Pboost/14.7 + 1)*CID*MAXRPM/3456
So, for example my application would require:
CFM = (12/14.7 +1 )*231*6500/3456
= 789.12 CFM required for my application
In terms of K& N filters the smallest size you can go at 4 inch size without ever restricting the engine is part# RF-1027:
Dimensions: 6.5inches wide, 8 inches long
CFM = 829.38
Even part number Rf-1026 can be restrictive at high RPMS for my specific application. RF-1026:
Dimensions: 6inches wide, 8 inches long
CFM = 753.98
I can't tell your exact dimensions but keep this in mind, it might be hard to fit a properly sized air filter but definitely worth it.
Got started on the Battery relocation.
A quick trip to the local auto zone and I had 90% of everything I needed.
Removed the spare tire and jack. Not like I'll ever use it anyways.... made a custom mounting plate for the battery box. Secured the battery box nicely to the plate. Started routing the battery cable. I'll need to find exactly where it is I'm going to go through the firewall , not quite there yet.
Got started on the Battery relocation.
A quick trip to the local auto zone and I had 90% of everything I needed.
Removed the spare tire and jack. Not like I'll ever use it anyways.... made a custom mounting plate for the battery box. Secured the battery box nicely to the plate. Started routing the battery cable. I'll need to find exactly where it is I'm going to go through the firewall , not quite there yet.
You can run the power wire on the passenger side, I have a 0 gauge wire running back for my stereo on the passenger side before that I had it running on the drivers side after making a huge hole in the fire wall, didn't have to on the passenger side.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Yeah I routed in on the passenger side. Nice clean tucked under the carpet
Cool.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Looks great, I've been thinking of doing the same for a cutoff switch, I have a short somewhere so have to start it and let it run every otherday to keep it charged.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
That's a clean install - where are you running the cutoff switch exterior wise? Back when I was looking at doing this I couldn't decided on a good location that wouldn't get tampered with on the street. I have seen both the berger panel and rear tail lights used as a switch location. The rear tail light appealed to me as I could get a spare for when I am not at the track.
LETZRIDE I'm going to install it under the hood. I have it more for storage reasons than anything. Im also going to relocate the hood release to an undisclosed location. That way I can leave it overnight somewhere and never have to worry.
Made a nice little negative post aswell since my last post.
I really take a step back on everything I do. There's a purpose for everything. When I build a car every peice works together for what the car is going to be used for. If I dont like how it ended up , I'll start over and try another way. I went back a forth with this battery setup. So far I'm happy with it....
It's a really nice setup - the only thing I would be careful of is if you plan to race it at the track. At least around here it is a requirement (I think an NHRA one as well) that any battery located to the trunk have a shutoff switch on the rear bumper for safety.
I still want to relocate the battery to the back myself, so I am interested to see your final outcome!
I am going to race it. That's 100% why I'm building it. But not for drag race. The suspension is completely setup for road racing. It doesnt really fall into any spec class , so for the most part it will be a track day and time attack car. With the occasional canyon run lol.
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