Powerdyne puzzle

[jessica2112]

O.k., I got my sc today. It needs rebuilt, will be on the way tomorrow for that. So I have a little time for my brother and I to figure this out. On a 99, do I use the stock tensioner? If not I need to get one. I have no Idea what size of plug for the TB. The mcanda is for a 97, so we dont really know what to follow and what not. Where do I tap for the boost/vac guage. Am I using the test port for the fuel pres sending unit? What does the air dam look like on the drivers side? I thought that was one piece. I have no self tapping screws for the mounting plate to the bulk head. What the hell is that about? What's a FIPK? I have no six ribbed pully to put in place of the idler pully. I have nothing to replace the stock tensioner with. Jeez I'm lost he's laughing............. :mad:

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

[blackFbird_98]

ok you cant use the stock tensioner, but i dont know where to get one either,for the bypass you will need a 3/8 tap and then a 3/8 by 16 threaded plug, even thought the instructions are for a 97 they will work on your car i had the same thought,and for the vac/boost gauge i have my taped into the vac line that goes from the FMU to the line on the throttle body,the air dam i am not sure what you are asking or the bulk head thing, you have no FIPK the is on the older models,and you will need a pully for a 6 ribbed belt, and a tensioner, but you will have to ask someone who knows a little more than i for that... and [img]graemlins/slap.gif[/img] and then [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] him for laughing at you

[grayman]

PCV bypass mod:
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/TB-PCV.htm

I never finished the boost gauge install page...you can not tap into vacuumm at the TB because your car is newer than '98. SO...stand in front of car...hood up...look to the rear-passenger side on upper intake manifold...see the black thing sticking out the side?
There are TWO 1/4" vac lines coming off of it. They have 'boots' to connect to the manifold. Carefuly wiggle the front vac line at the boot...not the hose...pull it off. Splice a section of 1/8" vac hose (you will need a nylon barb fitting that is male/male...1/4" to 1/8" into that connection and run it under the fire wall lip...I drilled a few holes in the plastic runner and secured vac line with zip ties...run the line over to the driver side...put another 3way tee connector and run one end to the one way check valve and then to the FMU. Run the other line through the firewall...you will have to drill a hole...(use taht same hole for the fp sender, boost, etc.) and run the wires/vac lines up into the dash and to the A pillar pods. (easier than it sounds)

I used copper 1/8" tubing for the main boost gauge lines because the nylon line that comes with the boost gauge kinks easily.

(the reason you should be using 'oversized barbed fittings" in some of your vac line connections is to make sure the connection is tight.)

[ May 07, 2005, 02:44 AM: Message edited by: grayman ]

[grayman]

Suggest:
Lets not worry about the actuall powerdyne install quite yet. Lets get all the accessories taken care of first...FP gauge and or Boost gauge. John d oil filter neck grinding...TB PCV bypass...etc. You can get all that stuff going first and then we can tackle the rest of it...sound good?

I have some pics of my vac lines but have not written up a guide yet. I will post the pics shortly...they should still help you.

[grayman]

Here are some (temp) vac line pics for the FMU and or a boost gauge.

http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/V...tions-temp.htm

[Mighty Thor]

Originally posted by jessica2112: Answered by Thor


Q. O.k., I got my sc today. It needs rebuilt, will be on the way tomorrow for that.

A. Are you sending it to 928 Motorsports? Make sure you get kevlar sprayed belt and ceremanic coated bearing that's rated for 7 ton. Tell them to remove the idler pully that's in there. If it is in there that is.

Q. On a 99, do I use the stock tensioner? If not I need to get one.

A. No you don't use the stock tensioner. There should be one with the kit along with a tensioner bracket.

Q. I have no Idea what size of plug for the TB. The mcanda is for a 97, so we dont really know what to follow and what not.

A. That won't be in the Mccanda instruction. Grayman has a great site that shows you how to do it. Just want to let you know that drilling holes is optional and may not be needed if you have a breather. Here's a good one from zzperfomance: http://www.zzperformance.com/product...675d43b3707d3a

Q. Where do I tap for the boost/vac guage.

A. There are several places you can do that but the easiest one is from the TB. There's a hose that goes from the TB and straight to the back of your alternator. You can put a Tee on that. You can test it right now if you like. Just see if you get a vaccuum when the engine is idling.

Q. Am I using the test port for the fuel pres sending unit?

A. I think you said it right, yes. That's the one that's right behind the alternator. You may have to lift up your plug wires just see that small thing. I'm sure if you need to buy an adapter(Pepboys has them). Since my car is a Calif. Car I had too. But with yours, maybe not.

Q. What does the air dam look like on the drivers side? I thought that was one piece. I have no self tapping screws for the mounting plate to the bulk head. What the hell is that about?

A. Not sure what that one is either?

Q. What's a FIPK?

A. I believe that's your Cone filter. I use to do cone but I found that ram air kit along with whisper lid is better. I was the first one to do this. It's even better when you are running 50 mph and over. You can just make it adapt to your kit. Check out my site on how I did it: www.cardomain.com/memberpage/563203/3

Q. I have no six ribbed pully to put in place of the idler pully. I have nothing to replace the stock tensioner with.

A. If none of that stuff came with the kit just run to the car store and get one. They have a catalog of pullies there or ask the clerk. Just take the stock ones that you have because they need to measure the inner diameter of idler and just tell them you need the ribbed. And for the tensioner pulley take that small cylinderical piece that's part of your tensioner bracket to them so they could try out different pullies on it. Just tell them you need the smooth one.

Q. Jeez I'm lost he's laughing.............

A. Nobody is a pro. we all learn as we go.

[blackFbird_98]

well according to grayman you can not use the vacume line off the TB so sorry about the bad info

[grayman]

yea, the straight TB does not have a vacuum line on the TB. Vacuum source can be found at the left (passenger side) upper intake manifold.

I think she is talking about the mounting bracket for the FMU. The physical mounting of the fmu is a pretty basic thing. It mounts nicely to the plastic lip as shown in instructions or I have mine on the STB with 2 3" radiator clamps and a bracket extension...teeco plate from home depot. :)

And integrating the stock air box works great. It means buying 2 feet of 3" flex hose from powerdyne.com but it all looks good too...official like...rather than having a cone filter stuffed in the engine bay....

[grayman]

FP sender:
not the fuel evap port...green cap...on the drivers side near the egr...you want to use the fuel rail bleeder valve on the fuel rail...passenger side front...little black cap...open gas cap...bleed valve (hold towel over it because it will spray a bit of fuel) remove schraeder valve (like a tire valve..buy inxpensive tool) Use teflon thread tape...use the two adapter fittings that viper posted for you...make sure they are on tight.
When the sender is in...turn the key to RUN so that the fuel pump turns on...inspect your connections to make sure fuel is not leaking...inspect well. Start the car...inspect again...turn the car off...inspect again...very important to make sure you have good and solid fuel connections.


I did not use the fuel rail port for my sender...I put an adapter in the rubber fuel feed line...both ways work.

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

do NOT use tape on those adaptors !!!!

the way the are made you do not use tape. the treads are tapored and seal as you srew it on more...

[NCState98]

^Thats correct, its the very end of the port that is angled, and it meets the very back inside edge of the adaptor you're screwing on there. These don't seal on the threads like some brass fittings do.

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

http://www.turbov6camaro.com/images/fuel/

theres some pic for you

[grayman]

oh yea...those are AN fittings...not NPT...forgot about that...my bad. Yea, no teflon tape for AN fittings.

[grayman]

Updated Vac/Boost line connections guide. (temp page removed)

http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/V...onnections.htm