Powerdyne puzzle

[2002 v6 camaro uncharged]

No it is not a problem, I still have my AC it is just a tight fit. But, you do have to unkook the AC canister from the mount on the fender well and move it to the side until the SC installation is complete and then put it back. No worrys

[grayman]

I just read that you didn't get the instructions with your kit. go to www.rksport.com and download the pdf. It really sucks...bad quality...but it is the same as you would have gotten. They only had the 95-97 instructions but most of that is the same. It sucks that you did not get the newer instructions. The big difference in the kits is the different Timeing Retard Modules that come with the different years. The newer (TRC-1 i believe) unit may splice into different ignition wires than the older unit/cars. (nobody has installed both kits on both older pre 98 cars as well as newer post 99 cars so I have no research to KNOW the difference...but they are different)

I am not running any aftermarket timing retart module. the car is fine. Max temp here is seattle is only 90 degreess...for just a bit of the summer. If I notice a problem with those temps I will just drive with less throttle = less boost to avoid having the PCM retard timing...(knock retard). Eventualy I will use software to tune in timing retard...but as Isaid...with 92 octane gas and cold air induction I have not had any knock while running the 6 psi pulley. (most people seem to be fine at 6 psi and no timing retard module...i would definatly want one if I was in arizona or someplace like that though.
When it comes time for your timing retard module...start a specific thread...I know there are at least a couple newer cars out there...nocharge for instance...he could probably talk you through it. The timing retard module can be installed before you mount the blower...you know...prep it so that it is done and ready to go when super charger day comes around.

The mcaanda instructions are great...but they do have a couple of inconsistancies and also are PRE JOHN_D Wrap...so download my mcaanda addendum as well.

[jessica2112]

OK yah I have no timing retard in the box I got. I live in florida, so it does get hot. Got a 180 therm. Had CAI but I sold it thinking i could not use it. Just finished moving and cable is broke somwhere leading to my apartment. Been fighting with Adelphia and landlady 2 days now. No internet. I just snuck on at work. No tv either. I really miss internet. will check threads. Saw the new post for wrap[ and mcanda, thanks you all for doing that!!! [img]smile.gif[/img] !!!!!!!!!! I can't get under the car for the wrap prepwork. Nothing but origional jack, and can't work on it at the apart. complex, will get in trouble :( .

[jessica2112]

Hey greyman, can I do the pvc mod if It will be a week b fore install?

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by jessica2112:
Hey greyman, can I do the pvc mod if It will be a week b fore install?

yeah i been driving on mine for 2000 miles wiating on the turbo

[jessica2112]

Thanks viper, your a sweetie [img]smile.gif[/img]

[jessica2112]

Greyman, I tried the rk site, could not find link to PDF file for SC install.

[blackFbird_98]

http://rksport.com/product/p_010910284/view_detail click on view instructions and you will be set...

[1998silverbird]

I am so glad i went with Nitrous.. yeah A/f gauges are gay..

[grayman]

yep, do all those mods ahead of time. Do the PCV mod, put the fmu on, file down the oil filter neck for the power wrap, get a peice of thin sheet metal that is about 2" wide by 3 or 4 " long...roll it so that it is shaped like your oil filter...eye out where the MAIN blower unit mounting plate will be and silicone that piece of sheet metal to the outside of the oil filter..like armor. This will protect the oil filter when you intall that 25 Pound blower, hunkered over the engine compartment...trying to fit it in between the radiator fans, engine and AC hoses.
(use a section of tuna can, peanut can... soup can...whatever...just something to protect the outside of filter...)

I have clearanced the radiator fans as well. It helps to make everyting fit...mainly the blower intake elbow and the blower dishcharge tube. Use tin snips and a small key hole saw. Dont cut the FANS...just remove some of the material of the FAN gaurd. You don't want the blower intake tubing to touch the fan but you can help create a bit more room by removing some of the fan gaurd. Look at the backside of radiator...at the fans...they spin freely...you will see the plastic gaurds around each fan. The passenger side fan is the one you really need to clearance.

Check it out...look at the third pic...you will see how the blower intake elbow is jamed up into the radiator/rans. Wheter or not you integrate your stock air box or use the cone filter...you will still be using that intake elbow.
In other words...when it comes time to actually mount that blower and things don't seem to fit...remember this post...there is hope.
;)

[grayman]

you can even put your NGK TR6 spark plugs in. Gap them to .035. (they will have a larger gap than that out of the box.) You want a short gap such as .035 so that the spark does not get blown out by the high compression in the piston cylinders...the higher compression comes from the boost. you shouldn't have to pay more than 2.50 to 3 bucks for each.

Make sure you have all the clamps for the discharge and intake tube as well. Don't scrape or dent the MAFF screen (the fine metal honeycomb screen in the front of the TB) when you do the PCV mod or when you put the discharge tubing on. The MAFF screen is very soft...you can damage it just by giving it a dirty look.

[jessica2112]

Wow, ok. Hey, I took pictures of what was sent to me minus the head unit. (On the way to rebuild now). Could I send them to you and have you tell me what I got, or better yet where it goes? I will send you some money for your time. I really am lost on the manual tensioner. I sent the mounting bracket with the sc, my mistake. It better come back with it! Thanks for the address. On my way over there now. I got the plugs in the kit. I'll have my mechanic put them on, I'm due for an oil change anyway.
My blow off valve on the output tube looks like it has a vacuum fitting on the top. Is that what they usually have? Got the one way valve in. If I install the FMU now is that in the Mcanda instructions? Need to make sure it's on right.

[jessica2112]

Oh yah, each end of the fuel lines on the FMU is male. Don't see how that is going to work.

[grayman]

GAAAUUUUDDDDD!
another goofey FMU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ARGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
one end should be male and one end should be female.

the fmu splices into the fuel return line. the return line is 5/16". the return line fitting on the end of the fuel rail is male. From there (stock) it connects to a female quicklink connector and that becomes a rubber flexible hose (wraped in the stock heat reflective tape) that terminates in a female quick link conector that attaches down on the inside drivers side fenderwell to a male fuel line connector.

The fmu goes between that connection. It should have one female and one male quicklink connector. The female end...obviously connects to the fuel rail and the male end connects to the rubber hose you just disconnected from the fuel rail.

You have a couple of options, now.
1) remove the stock heat reflective wrap from the stock fuel lines. be careful not to cut the lines . Find the 5/16" rubber fuel return line and CUT IT. Insert the FMU ends where you made the cut in the fuel return line. YOU MUST USE FUEL INJECTION RATED HOSE CLAMPS. They are about 4 bucks for a pack of 4. You only need two. Buy 5/16" hose clamps. The clamps must be VERY TIGHT. If you get the wrong size they will either be too loose or too tight(wont fit over the hose)

2) You can buy ONE female GM quick link connector (about 11 bucks) at a good parts store. Remove the male end from FMU that connects to the male end of the fuel rali and replace it with the female connector you just bought. Thie is the 'cleaner' looking of the two options because you do not have to remove the stock reflective tape nor cut the stock fuel line and you can probably use the clamp that is on the end of the fme hose right now.

The mcaanda istructions tell you what hoses on the fmu go where.

On my fmu the hoses are 1/4". (pretty stupid) but the end fittings (quick link) are 5/16". I had to modify my fmu ends as well. Fuel injection hose is REAL STRONG stuff. Insterting the barbed end of a quick link connector that is 5/16" into 1/4" fuel injection hose is not easy. I ended up filing down the 'barb' on the end of the quick link a bit to get it into the hose. I also soaked the hose it HOT SOAPY WATER for 30 seconds to make the hose swell up a bit. This makes it easier to get the oversized fiting into the undersized hose. It did not go in very far...but about an inch...which is far enough to get the clamp on.

When workiing with fuel lines:
Remove Gas Cap,
get a rag and cover the schraeder valve...bleed the schraeder valve to release pressure.
If you do not have a schraeder valve (because you stuck a fuel pressure sender on it...)you can try releasing presured from the fuel evap port on the drivers side on engine...the little green cap. Cover it with rag to not get fuel everywhere.


I have some updated web pages. The Johd-D page now has a hand drawn belt routing that also shows the orientation of the tensioner bracket. There alre also pics in the mcaanda instructions that shwo the bracket. My mcaanda addendum tells you what size bolt spacers go behind the bracket to mount it to the water pump and alternator bolt holes.
Basicaly...the top tensioner bracket bolt (comes with the kit) needs a small spacer behind it (kit) and the bolt is short and is only used to mount the bracket. The second tensioner bracket bolt uses the slightly longer (but still small) bolt spacer (kit) and one of the LONG bolts (kit) supplied for mounting the Main Blower Unit Mounting Plate. (the big plate that holds the blower) The mcaanda instrutions tell you what bolts go where...etc.

Don't forget to mount the '3rd main mounting bolt' for the blower plate FIRST. It is the S shapped metal bracket. You remove and re use a bolt that is down under the WATER HOSES in the heater hose return line area on the passenger side of engine.

[jessica2112]

Greyman, do you think the rebuilder will keep my mounting bracket? I forgot to take it off. I'd be up s*** creek without it. Jeese, you would think the fmu would be right, it was hooked up on the sellers car. It has steel braided hose lines. Can I reuse these? Is my pressure the same with the fmu and no sc? I hook the vac up too right? It's there - thanks for your help.