No, it's scaring me now. My a/c compressor bearings are getting really noticable at idle and it sounds noisy at idle with the a/c off (i mean the whole picture. All the pullies and accessories. It never used to be that loud before. The head unit is not making any bad noises or anything like that but like I have a bad belt or something. It is not loose, just noisy. It is a new belt). Ya my s bracket never came in the box. So the hole on the mount at the top left (looking at towards the firewall, is not attached to anything).
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Concerning the third mounting bar:
As you stated in earlier post..."the left hole on the mounting bracket lines up with nothing. It came with a metal bar, but it lines up with nothing as well."
that metal bar should have a whole on either end, right? If so that IS your "S" bracket. It does not 'line up straight' with anything on the block...that is why it is bent on either end. It should be about 7 inches long. go look. It WILL line up with a bolt that is located UNDER where your heater hose attach to the block. I don't have time to take a picure today. tomorrow I will take one and revise/update my addedum with pics of how it bolts up.
If you think about how much FORCE is being applied to the blower unit while it is under constant tension from the belt then....that third bracket is very important. If you don't have it on then you as asking for trouble. No matter how tight you have the two straight bolts/spacers you won't have a true 'tripod effect' as regards the mounting of the blower unit. It will be much more prone to vibrating as well as geting pulled to one side...at an angle, rather than remaining 'true and straight' regariding the blower pulley orientation to the rest of the pullies and belt on the car. Your two main mounting bolts will also bend....and eventualy the blower could be pulled down into the oil filter as the oil filter is only about 1/4" away.
If need be I can make another bracket that is just like mine...but I think you already have one as I described above.
I still have not heard yea or nay on if you confirmed that the FMU hoses are routed correctly or if the one way check valve is oriented the corret way.
Also...as regards the BOV vacuum line. As stated earlier...i forget who..a couple of posts up...the BOV needs to see vacuum as well as boost. SO>>>make the vacuum T BEFORE the one way check valve of the FMU. If you make the T after the one way check valve then the BOV will only see BOOST from the vac line.
Are all of you vac lines tight? did you kink the boost gauge hose?
You can test the performance of the ONE WAY CHECK valve by temporarily removing it and connecting the vac line straight to the FMU. The one way valve can go bad like any other part might break.
I wonder if your cone filter is real dirty? If so that could cause some bad low power idle issues.
My AC only rumbles and rattles at idle when the AC is on. When tha AC is off i have no noticable rattles...nothing. I have the blower secured by THREE bolts, however.
Lets get some of these basic 'install issues' figured out and confirmed before you start getting into tuning or a new pcm, ok?
I will let you know when I have pics up of the third mounting bar.
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www.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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OK I sent the install pix to viper, so check with him. It was a new K & N filter. BOV sees vac. No kink in vac line, boost vac gauge works great. No FMU function at all today. I don't like the air filter being so low, I'm gonna eat water regardless if I get this to work or not. When your belt slips does it sound really loud like a thump? I think mine did earlier (I hope thats what it was) and it did not squeak, it sounded like a thump thump. I think I lost that bracket you were talking about. I will know soon.Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM
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Well, the bracket got pitched. I put it in the wrong box. One was install trash and the other was stuff to save. [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] Guess which box it went in? [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] Long gone now. I'm having a bad day. I found someone with a FMU that works that will only cost me shipping it is an 8 to 1 ratio. Would that work??? I need to let him know.
"I almost forgot about this, but you need to verify that it is the correct fuel/boost ratio that you need or it might cause trouble. The one I have is an 8:1 ratio. I have taken pictures of it but I need to send them via e-mail cause I can't see any way to attach them. I can't say whether this is right for your application, so try to check it out before we go thru all this trouble. I wouldn't want you to run lean because we put the wrong FMU on there. If you want to see the pics, send me an e-mail and I will send them in a reply.[/QUOTE]
[ May 30, 2005, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: jessica2112 ]Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM
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THANK YOU VIPER! [img]graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img]
So, according to the pics, www.turbov6camaro.com/jess
did I do good or did I not become a jedi? [img]graemlins/popcorn.gif[/img]
JessicaJessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM
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I'll give you my input, I think it is just your belt needing to be tighten more. With the JD wrap you need to have the belt pretty tight or you will hear the A/C rattle. Also you will need to be tightening the belt for about a week or two until the belt doesn't strecth anymore. I have had my A/C rattle many times after changing the belt and after tightening the belt, it always goes away. Hope this helps, good luck.08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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You will not run lean with an 8/1 ratio FMU. if the price is right then go for it. the stock rksport kit vortech fmu is 6/1 so if anything you will be on the rich side...but if its cheap then it might be a cheap fix..for the FMU problem.
according to the pics:
Your one way check valve is installed correctly.
vac lines look like they are all clamped good.
The FMU fuel lines are installed correctly. But what is that white plastic thing in the quick link connector on the 'return' line? The other quick link that attaches to the fuel rail does not have one of those. Mine don't have those either.
No fuel leaks?
Where is the main source of vacuum located that you are taping into for the main vac line source? I could not tell by the pics. I think it is working though because you said that the boost gauge sees vacuum and boost. You probably have that right as well.
You threw away the 3rd mounting bracket. bummer. I wish I new someone who could make one in his garage for about 10 bucks and shipping.
I cant get a good look at the discharge tubing from the pics but for sure that is not a 'stock kit'. The fmu is not like mine and that blue silicon elbow is not stock rksport either. It is probably needed to integrate the BOV and regardless, non rksport discharge tubing is just fine. [img]smile.gif[/img]
I noticed you are using the metal pulley that was formaly the stock idler pulley on the tensioner bracket rather than the smooth plastic one that come with the kit. I did that as well. It helps to have a metal pulley when you put a large clamp on it to tighten the belt like you discovered. Nicely done. The plastic pulley bends when you put that type of clamp pressure on it.
I (all of us) are still waiting to hear 'how tight the belt actually is'? I just checked mine and it has stretched a bit after about two months and I could twist it "more than 90 degrees". I will tighten it tomorrow to 90 degrees or less.
As for rain getting in the cone filter it only costs about 35 bucks to integrate the stock air box with the blower intake on our year cars. (straight TB cars) It works real good and is very easy to do.
You still should not need tuning nor a new pcm. hold off on that stuff.
Do you still have the MAFF screen on the front of the TB? I did not remove mine. Sometimes when it is removed the engine can get all goofy.
oh, yea...with that metal pulley being used on the tensioner bracket; With the 105" (stock rksport issue) belt and the john_d wrap the pulley was rubbing against the heater hose inlets when I tightened the belt to 'acceptable powerdyne standards." It made a whicked racket as the inside of the pulley was grinding away on the heater core inlets. I fixed that by adding a washer between the tensioner BRACKET and the PULLEY.
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2 things that appear odd to me... your missing a bolt in the rim of the casing(I guess that's where you had mentioned you need the bracket).. also the pully looks odd for some reason... What size is it? Another thing... you might want to get some wide sleeve band clamps where the connections are instead of those thin metal clamps. It's VERY possible there is a leak. You could wet everything down with soapy water while the car is running to see if there are leaks anywhere in the system. If the water bubbles up anywhere (between the pipes/hosing, etc), you'll know you have a leak.
[ May 31, 2005, 07:52 AM: Message edited by: Shirl ]2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
2011 Cadillac CTS-V
2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
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Shirl, that pully is the stock tensioner one. Thank you all. No fuel leaks, the MAF screen is still on, the belt is as tight as I can get it. My a/c grumbles only when it is turned on. When I turn it off, it stops. THerefore, I assumed it's the bearings going out. It sure sounds like it. I still have to replace the FMU, it is never coming on now. Went into 2 lbs of boost today and no increase in FP. So I stay out of boost. J Another V6, this kit was very used, and it was hodge podged together. It was my first install, hence the trouble. If it was new off the bat, I would have been alot better off. Can anyone describe the belt slippage to me? Mine does not squeak, it THUMPS. Boom boom. Is that what it is? Even if the FMU worked, I'm afraid to nail it, because of that. Just sounds plain horrible. Like something is breaking or something. I don't know what to do about the missing bracket. And if my computer is retarding the timing so much as to run like a slug, it's kind of pointless to have the sc operating. I don't know how to get it to stop if that is what it is doing.. I have a used one coming in the mail(computer box), maybe I can send it somewhere, and have them program it, and then swap them out.
But where, and what do I ask them to do with it?
Greyman, can you please tell me where to order the hose or what I need to use the stock airbox? It rained on the way to work today and I had to be real careful not to get a motor full of water. Remember, I only have Advance auto stores around here. So I would rather just order something online and have it shipped to me. Thanks, Jessica
[ May 31, 2005, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: jessica2112 ]Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM
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go to www.powerdyne.com
look up accessories or something...it is kinda hard to find. you are looking for flexible intake tubing. get the 3" diameter size. (not the 4") Get their phone number from the website and call them. you not order it online. It costs$17 per foot. order 2 feet.
then, go to hardware store and get about 1 foot of 3" diameter (BLACK) PVC pipe. Also get a 3" black PVC coupler. (the coupler is used for joining to sections of PVC pipe)
when you have that stuff I will tell you more. I may just make a web page.
you will need a small saw for cutting the PVC pipe (easy) and a file for buring the endges after you make the cuts. (easy)
no go hear and take a look. you may not need any further instructions.
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/P...-Pics_temp.htm
and here...look at my PVC smooth bellows pics. I just cut the PVC smooth bellows down quite a bit when I added the SC and integrated the airlid with the powerdyne flex hose.
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/P...-Pics_temp.htm
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oh yea, not to be rude,
If you start messing around with the PCM and sending it out to be tuned or whatever...A lot of us (our powerdynes work fine as they are crowd) won't be able to give you any help. I won't be able to, that is for sure.
The 'thump, thump' you are hearing....um...the first thing that comes to my mind is the fact that you only two bolts holding on that super charger. The blower unit is under a lot of stress from the belt. the belt is making the pulley spin. As the pulley spins it may slip occasionaly and then the pulley grabs hold again...THUMP, THUMP as the blower unit is thrashed about. CHECK YOUR OIL FILTER, please. Look and see if it is dented right where the SC main mounting plate is hovering above it only about 1/4" away.
My AC bearings are not bad...12,000 mile on the car, 3000 with the SC, and my AC makes noise at idle with the AC on. My AC bearings are not bad...AC works fine...it just makes noise. It is anoying. It only makes noise at idel when it is REAL hot. I don't know why. The belt is tight. Sometimes I just turn the AC off at stop lights.
Check your oil filter.
I will make a '3rd' bracket. If you don't want it I am sure somebody will.
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Good point about the oil filter.. you should ONLY use AC Delco filters under there. I had major problems with Fram and K&N. They leaked for some reason. Maybe because of the tightness and rubbing under there, but it was a nightmare. Also, about the PCM... I'd wait on that until everything else is figured out. I think you are asking for more problems. I run the stock computer and my car ran 11's. At this point, I don't want anyone tampering with the PCM in my car. The pcm is able to adapt and adjust to your driving on it's own.2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
2011 Cadillac CTS-V
2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
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