there are a few supporting mods but i do think my lack of putting in the inline fuel pump and age of motor 146.000 miles did it in the turbo just sped up the process really fast. well i did find a motor for my car it is fully built for 1,599 and all i need is the intake and exhaust plus acessories and it will go right in. now comes the money but i am workin on that now
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finaly got the turbo installed....but
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you didn't add the fuel pump? LOL
hybrid - \'\'hI-br&d - The offspring of a cross between species.
Co-Founder West Coast F-Bodies
West Coast F-Bodies Car Club - WCFB Message Board
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i suggest an in tank pump the in line pumps are loud as hell. Also if you go with the GTP motor you will get to take advantage of stronger internals with a lower cr of 8.5:1 instead of 9.4:1 which will take a lot more boost. Also if you can afford it get a set of pnp l36 heads and a pnp f-body intake manifold, possibly GTP injectors, and a turbo cam and the supporting valvetrain. The GTP bottom end is a huge upgrade though for a boosted motor. if you do go with all these upgrades though you will need to reprogram it to get everything running smoothly. Sorry you blew the motor, i hope you can afford some of the upgrades while you are repairing it.2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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With 146 on the clock I'm sure its end was near. lol
I'd just get the one you have rebuilt if the block and crank are salvagable. Throw in some low compro forged pistons. :D2001 V6 Camaro - VTEC Badged, Abbott Racing Heads Sticker, and Loud A$$ Exhaust<br /><br /><b>BUILT NOT BOUGHT</b><br /><br />14.0 @ 96.44 MPH (Street Tires, Before Tranny)<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/6pakcamaro54\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/6pakcamaro54</a>
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yes the end for the motor was very near as i was planning on rebuilding it in the summer but this just speeds up the process quickly. i have been lookin at the gtp motors but my only question is will all the accessories bolt right to the block? as in the alt,power steering water pump, etc. and this also just means the car for now on just sits while i work on it and get another car. lots of money trouble but is being delt with.
i have found a replacement motor for the camaro already but i really want the gtp for the fact of the internals. i just dont know much about the different years of them and any differences if any at all from ours. mainly the block bolt pattern.
well i am off to look this all up. thanks for the input and we will see what happens. but it WILL be on the road again.
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If you have the two motors sided by side you will see what parts need to be interchanged. The crank pulley on the L67 has two pulleys on it...but your rebuilt long block might not even come with harmonic ballncer...but the L36 harmonic ballancer is interchangeable.
If you are rebuilding your L36 you can just get new L67 internals. Or you can get an L67 long block from napa for $1900. (and soak up the core charge)
Either way if you are sticking with a turbo and you are replacing the engine then you really want an L67 set up. IMO.
If you are going to upgrade the valvetrain then do it all now as well. consider things like double roller timing chain, ballacer shaft removal and plugging, a blower cam, 105 springs, etc. instead of paying for all those parts stock and then replacing them. After a point 'supporting mods' become more and more mandatory just for engine durability and safety sake.
consider hanging out over at clubgp as well. lots of info there for the boosted 3800.
good luck.
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I forgot to ask what your fuel pressure gauge was reading when you were hitting boost. What ratio FMU did you use? I would think 6/1 at least for starters. if so were you hitting 90 psi or so of fuel pressure on your runs?
I don't see any info in your sig nor a website detaling your car and the project. I see that it is a 96 3.8 but that does not tell us much at all. Maybe I have missed other posts concerning your project...????
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i am a sinner when it comes to the turbo. no fuel pressure gauge. and about the project and web site. i didnt post much really i was doing more reading and searching. and didnt post cause about 95% of my questions were answered so i never really had a reason to post.
the fmu is what came in the fff kit which i believe is the 8/1. but as with all the supporting mods like the valve train and stuff i was planning on doing all that this summer when i was going to rebuild the motor. i was kinda hoping to light foot the car till then that way i would have a second car to get to work. but all that has been sped up.
and with the valve train looks like ill just get the the block with the l67 internals and rebuild the current heads and swap them over. ill look into that some more to see if those will also swap over.
so as of now the car gets parked and slowly worked on as i get the money, but i plan on having it done before summer is over. cause i will have to do the tranny also.
thanks to you all for you help and it is a hard and expensive learned but sped up plans that were in the works.
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Originally posted by iGoRa:
I saw couple guys did L36 to L67 swap with no problems ( you can remove all accesories from your blown engine). ClubGP has all info for doing that. Maybe have a post in the Advanced section for help, Im sure you can find someone who done this in the past.-Kevin<br /><a href=\"http://heinz.no-ip.com/Car%20Pics/IM000117.JPG\" target=\"_blank\"><b>\'96 White Camaro RS M5</b></a> <br />GTP Shortblock - T3/T4 -6psi Intercooled<br />Open Downpipe
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