Belt size

[The Crow]

Whats the belt size (length) that we need to run the powerdyne units with the 6 psi pulley

[ssms5411]

From Rksport it is 104.5" , if you do the JDwrap, you could go 103.8" or 103.5". It has been awhile since I had a 6lB pulley, so maybe someone running a 6lb pulley will answer also. I run a 2.6" pulley and use a 102" belt, sometimes a 102.5" belt.

[grayman]

i use the stock (rksport belt) 105 (or 104.5 as ssms5411 pointed out) along with the 6 psi pulley and the john d wrap. There is still a little room left on the tensioner.

I have a 103" belt (brand new) that I tried to use but it was too tight for the 6 psi pulley and john d wrap. (wouldn't even go on)

if buying new then goodyear gatorback and dayco belts work the best. the gates belts seem to have the worst history with the powerdyne. try to avoid the gates belts.

[Mighty Thor]

The 103 works best for a 2.95 pulley(I bought from SSM5411). It was tight but I had to muscle it in there. But once use it does stretch and I find myself tightening it a little bit more.

105 or 104.5 would be best for a 3.1 pulley.

[The Crow]

Thanks guys, I am going to be installing the gauges and the FMU this weekend and then doing the Thermostat, Coolant bypass, PVC bypass and headunit next weekend. I bought some Autometer C2 gauses, Fuel Pressure, Boost and Air Fuel Ratio (I know its only decent at WOT but I got a great deal on them. I will put some pics up once I put in the gauges and then after the rest is done.

[T-Punk]

Congrats man you should be happy with the improvement. Try to get to a track before the install and then after so you can see the difference on paper.

[grayman]

as fior the gages...
try and use the exact gauge wire required. I noticed my fuel sender was not working becuase I had mismatched the gauge of wire. (i think i used 16-18 gauge on the positive sender harnes rather than 14 gauge. swapped that out and all was fine.

i just dropped a few extra bucks and got a good assortment of colored wires so that all my aftermarkdet gear would have their own color. I made a cheat sheet to keep track as well as labeled the wire ends inside the a pillar pod. They can all share the same ground wire if you like. (12 gauge black should work fine)

I also built in spade disconnects under the a pillar. very handy when swapping out or testing gauges and easy to install with the a pillar hahing down and all. I used the blue and pink insulated male/femal connectors for this. they seat VERY tight and are insulated...rather than the cheapo red and blue type spade connectors.

I also used copper boost tubing. I put in a disconnect point for this as well just under the a pillar a few inches after the tubing clears the POD. the tubing should not be kinked. otherwise you have to feed he entire tubing out the pod and then attach the gage and then stuff the boost gage into it's pod without kinking it. kinda tricky.

check out my web page on gage installs. kinda hard to explain.

when you get the powerdyne up and running for the first time...don't go WOT until you khow that the fmu is working. you will see the Fuel Presure increase a few pounds even if you put the car in half a pound of boost.

good luck with everthing.

oh, yea...the little blue 'quick splice' connectors are VERY handy. I used one on the back of the fuse box (boost gage light...to the dash light fuse wire) and one on the o2 sensor wire for the narrow band.

[ March 09, 2006, 03:13 PM: Message edited by: grayman ]

[The Crow]

:cool: Way ahead of you Grayman, I printed out your site and made a manual out of it, I am following it word for word. I have already bought all different color wires, connectors, copper boost tubing kit, vacuum connetion tees etc. [img]graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] Thank, everyone that wants to go with a Powerdyne unit needs to see your site. I feel alot better prepared for the install after studying it. [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img]

[ March 09, 2006, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: The Crow ]

[grayman]

way cool.
glad it helps

[The Crow]

One more question guys, I bought a valve cover breather but I need to remove the plastic tube that extends out from the valve cover. How is that removed? The reason I can't place in on top of the tube is because I have a Hotchkis STB.

[Mighty Thor]

Yeah, Grayman is awesome. I don't have the cahones to do what he did.

As far as removing the oil spout tube, I wouldn't recommend it. Just from what I've seen from others. I've seen breathers get oil soak really bad and the breather is wasted.

The oil spout tube sort of helps prevent the breather from getting soaked with oil. Although in time oil can develop on it.

ZZP performance sells a breather that would directly connect to your oil spout tube (in direct replacement of an oil cap).

[grayman]

but he has a strut tower brace. I am in the same boat. I have a threaded breather (zzp) and it has been fine for 10,000 miles with the SC. I would like to use the pour spout tube but can't with the STB.

You are supposed to be able to 'twist it off.' I could not. I sorta cracked the 'thread area' of the pour spout while getting it out. I did not lose any pieces down the valve cover whole. (phew :eek: ) Lucky me. It does sorta twist off, though. the bottom of the spout has a 'pressure fit'... not just threaded. I know this isn't much help, but try turning and twisting it. go easy. try not to crush it.

I don't remember for sure...but try to get it started...counter clockwise..and when it stops (it is hanging up on a 'detent') see if you can get a thin screwdervice between the outside of the spout and the valve cover whole to release the detent. Just a thought.

[grayman]

UPDATE on rksport 104.5" belt:

I have been running the John_D wrap and the stock rksport 104.5" belt for 10,000 miles. I just tightened this belt for the last time as the rksport tensioner has just bottomed out. The belt is currently tight but there is no more room in the tensioner to accomodate any more stretch in the belt.

I have a 103.???" dayco belt waiting to go on. I tried to use it before but it was TOO tight. I will be trying again. maybe i'll get a second set of hands to pull the belt over the water pump pulley or something.

[ssms5411]

Grayman, Dayco also makes a 103.8" belt, I used one of those for awhile.

[grayman]

Originally posted by ssms5411:
Grayman, Dayco also makes a 103.8" belt, I used one of those for awhile.

i am pretty sure that is the one I have. it is just sitting on shelf. I will try to get it on this weekend. see if i can loosen the tensioner pulley so that the pulley 'dangles' free and then get the belt slipped on. I can also try stretching it a bit by hand by wrapping it around my vice and tugging. (did that for the under drive ballancer on the TA. the new sized belt was just tad too small.)