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  • more questions.. and attn: matt/TSP please read

    sorry for adding the atn part but i want matts opinion and i dont know if he checks his email over the weekend..

    ok.. so I installed my plugs and my fuel pump today with no huge issues..

    here is what happened though.. we got the pump on and used the new thick black hose that came with it becuase the white hise was not comming off w/o breaking it..

    however.. with the black hose and the way our fuel pump attaches to the top its spring loaded and i am assuming lets it move around for some reason.. but the black hose is REALLLLY stiff.. and really dosent let it move around anymore when you get it into the tank.. so its jsut forced all the way down to the bottom.. is this bad?? what shuld i do to take care of it? or just not worry about it..


    ok.. now onto the fuel pressure guage again.. i found it on the passenger side fuel rail.. and i was looking at the guage and it has an adapter on it.. so how do you take the shrader valve out?? and once you do will the thread on the otehr side be the "male" side of the female side?? becuase the connector on the guage sending unit is the female end..

    so tommarow all i really need to do is polt up the blower and attach the fuel lines and gauges!! [img]smile.gif[/img]

    and info about how to hook up the FMU would be great too.. as in witch line goes where.. there are two one is closer to the front of the car.. and one is closer to the rear.. wich one hooks up to wich part of the fmu??

  • #2
    I think the fuel pump should be o.k , did you reuse your plastic canister? On mine I ditched the canister and clamped it to the metal, with a piece of rubber in between the to , to make it sit straight. To take the shrader valve out, just go to the auto store and ask them for one,looks like a T and you just unscrew the valve out. Make sure you relieve your fuel pressure first. You might need a adapter to put on the sender. I think I had to use one. For the Fmu, it is the one closer to the rear.The lines will only plug in one way so it should be pretty easy. I think one is a male and the other a female end. The auto store should have disconnectors for the fuel lines, I got the plastic ones, with various sizes. Well, I hope this helps. I will be gone for a week in Hawaii so I hope your install goes well.
    08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
    96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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    • #3
      You might need a adapter to put on the sender. I think I had to use one. For the Fmu, it is the one closer to the rear. [/QB]
      The pressure sending unit already has an adaptor on it- I bought it aftermarket (its made by NOS). Once you remove the valve, you screw the femal adaptor onto the male body of the schrader valve.

      The fuel line disconnect tool is like 2 bucks from pep boys, and the schrader valve removal tool is about 2 bucks also.

      As far as the black hose on the fuel pump is concerned- I don't think it will be a problem either- I don't think the fuel pump moves too much.
      All gone :(<br />Best ET ever: 14.3 (I think)<br />----------------------------<br />Check out my site for exhaust clips, burnouts, and pictures, and the supercharger throttle body mod.<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/net_addict/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Click on the Firebird</a>

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      • #4
        cool, yeah the car seems to run fine man! got it all done [img]smile.gif[/img]

        but those guages are acting a littel funny.. but i am gunna check it all out tommarow.. i will keep in touch

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        • #5
          Yea, the fuel pump install sounds fine. It doesn't travel much if at all when you're driving, so the spring loaded thing is kind of useless. You can remove the schrader valve with te tool from the parts store, which will be a couple bucks. Or it can even be removed with some tweezers, just be careful.
          <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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          • #6
            Ok, so i think there is something wrong with teh vacume lines that i ran.. for whatever reason i ma only making like 3 lbs at best.. and my fmu is not moving a whole lot.. any ideas?? i am using a new napa belt and its pretty dam tight..

            then today it was POURING DOWN rain.. and my car would turn on a light on the dash that said "low power mode" or some BS.. the car would bog down.. and i would just turn it off and wait for a while.. it would only do it if i let the car idle in one spot for a min or two.. it was really odd..

            it also would thor up an ses light.. but by the time i can get is scanned it will go away again..

            any insight would kick ***..

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            • #7
              Hmm, what vacuum line did you use for the boost gauge? I tapped the upper intake manifold for my fitting. You want to make sure that your vacuum connection is very solid, because if it leaks, the fmu won't add enough pressure to stay safe. I really really recommend drilling and tapping the manifold like I did... it was a very secure connection. Just use a 1/8-27 tap.

              I've never heard of low power mode or what that is all about, but I bet the whole problem would be solved if you could get the code scanned while the ses light was on.

              And, just out of curiosity, which FMU plate are you using, and did you use a hammer to tighten the belt?

              Oh, and did you make sure to do the throttle body mod that is in my sig?
              All gone :(<br />Best ET ever: 14.3 (I think)<br />----------------------------<br />Check out my site for exhaust clips, burnouts, and pictures, and the supercharger throttle body mod.<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/net_addict/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Click on the Firebird</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                I workd out of the issues with the boost.. it makes about 5 lbs.. if i were to tigthen the belt more it would be cool.. i used a brand new handheld mechanical vacume gauge and ran a line into the car to confirm it.. that autometer guage is about a pound off..

                the issue with the "reduced engine power" is still a problem.. it seems to only want to do it when i am cruing around at below 30 mph after waiting for a stop light or something.. its annoying as hell..

                the code got logged into the history as "throttle body performance" and i have no idea what that meens.. I know its probably soemthing dumb with the "drive by wire" TB's anyone have any advice??

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                • #9
                  [/B]
                  the issue with the "reduced engine power" is still a problem..
                  That's interesting, there is another thread running where a similar type of trouble is discussed.
                  http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=4;t=001701

                  Maybe the MAP sensor?

                  HH
                  2002 Camaro M5 Black<br />Propane MFS<br />Ravin RA554259 w/3\" SS Tips<br />Powerdyne Supercharger <br />SLP Cold Air Package<br />B&M Sport Shifter (Ripper)<p>She burns sweet & clean, I\'ll tell you what!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by HankHill:
                    </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />the issue with the "reduced engine power" is still a problem..
                    That's interesting, there is another thread running where a similar type of trouble is discussed.
                    http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=4;t=001701

                    Maybe the MAP sensor?

                    HH [/b]</font>[/QUOTE]yeah.. what a PITA.. thanks for the heads up on the other thread..

                    I doubt it.. see my post in that section.. in fact.. redirect all info to that thread..

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