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Would useing a sheet metal punch work better than drilling out the hole for the return line from the turbo? That way the the shaving from the drill bit dont sit in the oil pan. Even after changing the oil after drilling there would still be shaving in the tank right?
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1999 Camaro V6, 3.8L,Flowmaster 80, AR 17\"X9.5\" Torq-Thrust II Yokohama275/40WR/17,B&MRipper,BMR STB,BRM Lower Arm Relocation Brackets. -
I've seen it done that way with a vortec blower... and I think they even supply a tap to use.... however, I wouldnt do it that way at all (partly because vortec also supplies a fitting that is designed to work with the tap they tell you to use)... the pan is easy to take off of V6 f bodies, a pretty quick job. besides, most people's pan gaskets leak some anyway, here's an excuse to take the pan off, drill and tap it properly, and make sure you get all the metal shavings out of the pan.. not to mention fixing any leaks if there are any. A gasket for the pan is cheap anyway, I'd just do it that way. -
GN-T66 is absolutely right. Taking the pan off of one of these cars is all of a 20 minute job. your best option is to take it off and drill a hole. But before you put it back on, just take your sweet time cleaning it out to ensure you get rid of all the shavings.1998 Camaro, Arctic White<br /><br />Garrett P-Trim T04 turbo<br /><br /><i>348rwhp, 379.5rwtq @ 10psi</i>Comment
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I'd like to know the secret to make the pan an easy job. I fooled around with mine and finally dropped the K member a bit to get the pan to clear.\'98 Camaro V6<br />Appearance... pleasing<br />Performance... just a little extra air.Comment
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and you can have a look-see in the motor while your in there ;)www.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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Yeah, I'd like to know how it's an easy job too? I had to lower my K-member too in order to get to the front bolts and then work it out between the K-memeber and exhaust. What a pain in the A**!!Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>Comment
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Id like to know too, usually a couple hour job. Cutting the frame to gain access doesent count though...Originally posted by kahouna23:
Yeah, I'd like to know how it's an easy job too? I had to lower my K-member too in order to get to the front bolts and then work it out between the K-memeber and exhaust. What a pain in the A**!!
CpComment
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All i had to do was jack up a but on the motor and wiggle the pan out. Worst case scenario is you have to just loosen the KMember a bit, but i didn't need to on my car.1998 Camaro, Arctic White<br /><br />Garrett P-Trim T04 turbo<br /><br /><i>348rwhp, 379.5rwtq @ 10psi</i>Comment
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Im assuming you removed the motor mount bolts?? All this easily under 20 mins?? Not too shabby.
CpComment
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No, didn't remove anything really... maybe my car is just weird that way. But, i will admit i used air tools.1998 Camaro, Arctic White<br /><br />Garrett P-Trim T04 turbo<br /><br /><i>348rwhp, 379.5rwtq @ 10psi</i>Comment
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Well i guess ill have to try it that way next time. I dont see how lifting the motor up will give you any more clearance being as its bolted to the K and the frame... but if it works it works.
CpComment
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