Please read this on a professional level
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
hey I never said I KNEW I was running 100+ psi, but theoretically it should. If base FP is 40 psi and a 6:1 ratio FMU is used at 10 psi , thats 100 psi already, now what kind of fp I was actually running I have no idea.<hr></blockquote>
From the previous post I thought you actually knew or had a FP gauge on it at some point.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
as for the A/F ratio, I did not do a wideband on the dyno. I know the a/f ratio bacause my scanner, btw its a hand held called AUTO-XRAY, says teh A/F ratio. it said 11.6 but that is considering the stock injectors, which are 17 on the 3.4, I was just guessing that with the 24s it should be considerably richer, no way to tell really. How accurate is this reading? hell I don't know. Even 11.6 is too rich for my blood.<hr></blockquote>
Actually Auto X-Ray, which is carried by most Pep-Boys and Autozone's, is just a diagnostic scanner and has no idea what injector the engine has. If you make a minor injector size change the PCM can alter the shortterm fuel trim. Anything larger than that then you will need to reflash to change the injector constant in the fuel tables. AutoXray reads the O2 millivolts and attempts to translate that into a A/F ratio. Like I said before the stock 0-1 Volt O2 sensors read well from 15:1 to 13.5:1 A/F after that they do not have the resolution nor the accuracy to be used for solid measurements in A/F ratio.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
You have to understand I do not have a big sucessfull shop where I work from or fabricate all this or gives me a budget for this project. Everything accomplished comes out of my personal or the prototype's owner's pocket. This makes all this kinda complicated. I simply do not have the resources you do, I just do the best I can with what I can. I have good friends in the right places that can help me get what I need done, that is how I can produce these kits.<hr></blockquote>
We didn't have a big budget for this project either. Most of this project came out of mine and Ryan's wallet. So I can sympathize with you that cash is the short coming of all projects.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
At the dyno Im not wasting time at 7-8 psi, if it only ran that on mine and and radcat's first dyno, it was because we both had problems. We both had 3 inch long rips on some intake pipe connectors that owned the boost to only 7-8.0 I always plan on running big boost numbers cause Im going all the way to get everything I can out of it, thats why I usually go ready with 100+ octane. Why settle for any less, I can display what my kits are capable of. Now I can tell you radcat has ran 14 psi on 93 pump gas on the street before without incidents. But at the track or at the dyno, why settle for less then full performance? race gas and up the boost, and let it rip, tahts what its all about. Common practice by all GN, TTAs, and pretty much any turbo car out there. Now does this mean that you can't run pump gas? hell no. I run pump gas everyday on the street as does the other prototype cars at 7-10psi, but if Im gonna get numbers I will go all out and squeeze all I can out of it being as safe as I can. on 7 lbs I can run 105 mph trap speeds and I can do that on pump gas, that indicates quite a bit of power. But as I Said Im always lookinf for more out of it.<hr></blockquote>
Now this is where I have the problem,
You post these dyno numbers and everyone thinks that's the way the kit's going to come. You yet to produce any solid A/F Ratio charts and/or Dyno sheets. You haven't spoken about the mods to your supposed all stock engine.(At least the people that call me think your car is bone stock with just the turbo). You fail to mention until after the fact that CO2 was used as a secondary cooling medium for the dyno testing. Also that you had race gas and 16 psi on one run, sure it didn't make power beyond 10 psi that, but that's the turbo running out of air.
It's good and all to see the full potential of a S/C or T/C kit, but don't you think that the use of all the above items to get a miraculous dyno number on the rollers is a little bit misleading to the public that reads on this message board. 90+% of the readers on here only see the numbers posted and nothing else and make comparisons of forced induction kits based on the number they see. After all, the majority that are on here may not realize what you have done to get those numbers. Oh sure you have a 3.4L, but that's only 21 cubic inches smaller than the 3.8L and the fact you have ported heads and intake(if done properly) will outweigh the cubic inch difference.
You have to remember that the majority of the people out there use their car for double duty and are probably more interested in daily usable HP rather than the all out track stuff HP that will be used maybe once a month, maybe twice. Posting your peak number without test specifics, dyno & A/F Ratio graphs is misleading to the many followers you have that are interested in the turbo setup you have.
The reason I'm asking is not to be an *******, but because these are the questions people from this board are asking me when they call my shop. They are comparing, which is normal, but I can't answer their questions when you can't either. I am in business to make sure I do the right thing and make safe kits. I do, when asked or see a need, make race versions of my kits. Right now, this is the first step of the 3.8L S/C kit and others are in the works. As everyone has known...Ryan's car was less than the perfect choice for a test vehicle.
Again, this is not to be taken as being mean or an a**h0le, but everyone needs answers as to the specifics and hard facts to your kit. They all know mine and I can answer them. The only questions unanswered are those which have not yet been tested.
[ July 06, 2003: Message edited by: MachPerformance ]</p>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
hey I never said I KNEW I was running 100+ psi, but theoretically it should. If base FP is 40 psi and a 6:1 ratio FMU is used at 10 psi , thats 100 psi already, now what kind of fp I was actually running I have no idea.<hr></blockquote>
From the previous post I thought you actually knew or had a FP gauge on it at some point.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
as for the A/F ratio, I did not do a wideband on the dyno. I know the a/f ratio bacause my scanner, btw its a hand held called AUTO-XRAY, says teh A/F ratio. it said 11.6 but that is considering the stock injectors, which are 17 on the 3.4, I was just guessing that with the 24s it should be considerably richer, no way to tell really. How accurate is this reading? hell I don't know. Even 11.6 is too rich for my blood.<hr></blockquote>
Actually Auto X-Ray, which is carried by most Pep-Boys and Autozone's, is just a diagnostic scanner and has no idea what injector the engine has. If you make a minor injector size change the PCM can alter the shortterm fuel trim. Anything larger than that then you will need to reflash to change the injector constant in the fuel tables. AutoXray reads the O2 millivolts and attempts to translate that into a A/F ratio. Like I said before the stock 0-1 Volt O2 sensors read well from 15:1 to 13.5:1 A/F after that they do not have the resolution nor the accuracy to be used for solid measurements in A/F ratio.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
You have to understand I do not have a big sucessfull shop where I work from or fabricate all this or gives me a budget for this project. Everything accomplished comes out of my personal or the prototype's owner's pocket. This makes all this kinda complicated. I simply do not have the resources you do, I just do the best I can with what I can. I have good friends in the right places that can help me get what I need done, that is how I can produce these kits.<hr></blockquote>
We didn't have a big budget for this project either. Most of this project came out of mine and Ryan's wallet. So I can sympathize with you that cash is the short coming of all projects.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:
At the dyno Im not wasting time at 7-8 psi, if it only ran that on mine and and radcat's first dyno, it was because we both had problems. We both had 3 inch long rips on some intake pipe connectors that owned the boost to only 7-8.0 I always plan on running big boost numbers cause Im going all the way to get everything I can out of it, thats why I usually go ready with 100+ octane. Why settle for any less, I can display what my kits are capable of. Now I can tell you radcat has ran 14 psi on 93 pump gas on the street before without incidents. But at the track or at the dyno, why settle for less then full performance? race gas and up the boost, and let it rip, tahts what its all about. Common practice by all GN, TTAs, and pretty much any turbo car out there. Now does this mean that you can't run pump gas? hell no. I run pump gas everyday on the street as does the other prototype cars at 7-10psi, but if Im gonna get numbers I will go all out and squeeze all I can out of it being as safe as I can. on 7 lbs I can run 105 mph trap speeds and I can do that on pump gas, that indicates quite a bit of power. But as I Said Im always lookinf for more out of it.<hr></blockquote>
Now this is where I have the problem,
You post these dyno numbers and everyone thinks that's the way the kit's going to come. You yet to produce any solid A/F Ratio charts and/or Dyno sheets. You haven't spoken about the mods to your supposed all stock engine.(At least the people that call me think your car is bone stock with just the turbo). You fail to mention until after the fact that CO2 was used as a secondary cooling medium for the dyno testing. Also that you had race gas and 16 psi on one run, sure it didn't make power beyond 10 psi that, but that's the turbo running out of air.
It's good and all to see the full potential of a S/C or T/C kit, but don't you think that the use of all the above items to get a miraculous dyno number on the rollers is a little bit misleading to the public that reads on this message board. 90+% of the readers on here only see the numbers posted and nothing else and make comparisons of forced induction kits based on the number they see. After all, the majority that are on here may not realize what you have done to get those numbers. Oh sure you have a 3.4L, but that's only 21 cubic inches smaller than the 3.8L and the fact you have ported heads and intake(if done properly) will outweigh the cubic inch difference.
You have to remember that the majority of the people out there use their car for double duty and are probably more interested in daily usable HP rather than the all out track stuff HP that will be used maybe once a month, maybe twice. Posting your peak number without test specifics, dyno & A/F Ratio graphs is misleading to the many followers you have that are interested in the turbo setup you have.
The reason I'm asking is not to be an *******, but because these are the questions people from this board are asking me when they call my shop. They are comparing, which is normal, but I can't answer their questions when you can't either. I am in business to make sure I do the right thing and make safe kits. I do, when asked or see a need, make race versions of my kits. Right now, this is the first step of the 3.8L S/C kit and others are in the works. As everyone has known...Ryan's car was less than the perfect choice for a test vehicle.
Again, this is not to be taken as being mean or an a**h0le, but everyone needs answers as to the specifics and hard facts to your kit. They all know mine and I can answer them. The only questions unanswered are those which have not yet been tested.
[ July 06, 2003: Message edited by: MachPerformance ]</p>
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