Life expectency for a TT 3.8 with stock block?

[Shane]

How long would a 3.8 Fbody last with a stock block at about 9psi as long as u dont beat the piss out of it alot??

[Mighty Thor]

Funny you mentioned that. After talking to James at Vector Perf. he said that at 6-9 psi the stock motor should be ok. Provided that there is spark and fuel always. He said that high RPM is what would kill a stock motor. I don't exactly know what he means by it.

[nocutt]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Shane:
How long would a 3.8 Fbody last with a stock block at about 9psi as long as u dont beat the piss out of it alot??<hr></blockquote>

There is no anwser to this...yet!?!? It will be very subjective if there was answer regardless!
Bottom line...proper heat management, correct AFR...proper timing...will be the best advice! but you don't expect to add 60% more power to your engine and expect longevity now do you ;)

[Shane]

well it wouldnt be a daily driver either....i have 2 other cars.....it would be my attention grabber car and toy car. I wouldnt abuse it a lot at all.

What injectors should i use and how much are they?

[xjarayax]

Good luck with the TT. You dont have quite the engine bay room as your buddy with the TT Stang. Something like this can be done, but has to be similar to the LS1 incon TT setup, locating the turbos on the rear side of the engine right after the manifolds.

[Shane]

yea i know....we are gonna look things over tommorow.....if not i have the direct port nitrous kit still...i will put that in....but after risding in his car i want the TT!

[xjarayax]

Why not just single turbo? Much less work/fabrication/weight... and then its easier to diagnose your problems when something goes wrong. It may not have as much as a cool factor but it's definately just as fast if not more efficient if matched with the proper turbo sizing, plus its been done before so you have an idea where you need and can route piping.

[Swift_3800_F-Body]

the block should be fine, you would have to be boosted very high to damage it, best thing to do is go with 8.0 or 8.5 compression pistons and quality oil restricted push rods, thoughs are the main things you want to replace, other than that, he means by high rpms, that redlining your engine or an engine that idles at high RPM is not healthy and can cause bent rods in the long run, but... as far as the block goes, the 3800 block is ****in badass, its stronger than a LS1 aluminum block from what iv heard

[ July 17, 2003: Message edited by: Swift_3800_F-Body ]</p>

[fred slawson]

It's all about control. Keep enough fuel in it and retard the timing when boosting. Control the charge temp by intercooling or water/methanol injection or both. And what ever you do make sure your tires and brakes are up to it, cause believe me it's more important to be able to stop the thing than to get it going. I guess the rest is common sense.

[nocutt]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by fred slawson:
It's all about control. Keep enough fuel in it and retard the timing when boosting. Control the charge temp by intercooling or water/methanol injection or both. And what ever you do make sure your tires and brakes are up to it, cause believe me it's more important to be able to stop the thing than to get it going. I guess the rest is common sense.<hr></blockquote>
Amen to that...
Preach on brother..preach on!
I found out the hard way...stopping is very important or rather been able to predict how the vehicle will stop :(

[Arctc Wolf]

big injectors, at least 36 lbs. there's also 42.5 and 50 lbs. out there for ours, but need custom tuning to make any of them work.

single turbo would be easier, but twins would be cool and unique.

L67 rods would be a good upgrade, along w/ some forged and coated pistons, even if they're sto0ck compresion, cuz it'll make the motor more reliable. Coating the piston tops, combustion chambers, and valve faces will help keep heat in the cylinder and reduce the chances for detonation by promoting a single flamefront and no hot spots.

Depending on how high u wanna rev, there's a lot of stuff to do for our valvetrains to handle 6600 rpm redlines and shifting at 6400-6500.

fuel and spark should be addressed before u start boosting the motor. plugs/;wires, and an MSD ignition would be good to prevent misfires. upgraded fuel pump, boost dependent fuel pressure regulator, and hi octane fuel will take care of the fuel side. piggyback units will need to be used if u plan on adding bigger injectors, or my favorite, a stand alone Engine Management System to handle everything in unison.

most ppl look at getting a lot more power as the end all of building up cars. I've found that w/ my few mods, the stock V6 suspension can't handle a lot of power. I'm prolly around 200 rwhp, and my rear end hops like crazy when trying to launch. Also, u have to stop sometime just like fred said. better rotors, pads, and stainless steel brake lines would be a good low cost approach. for great braking quality and low cost, wilwood makes great systems. I like the 6 caliper front/4 caliper rear combo for about $2000. u'll be able to stop damn fast if the tires are sticky enough. oh yea, and Y or Z rated tires should be a must.

[fred slawson]

Artic Wolf I like the coated pistons and valve thing, if you go to techline.com you will see products that you can use yourself to do just that. They also have a neat lubricant coating that really slicks things up.

Nocutt did you bang the ride up brother?

[nocutt]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>
Nocutt did you bang the ride up brother?[/QB]<hr></blockquote>

the story:
http://www.beretta.net/board/ib3/iko...ST;f=29;t=1482 :(

[Tiago]

:(

[fred slawson]

Man Nocutt I'm sure sorry, but I bet the beast will be back stronger than ever when it's all said and done.