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Aight folks, engineer me this one. I have an oil cooled turbo -- how can I run oil without tapping the pan? I assume I can get a pressurized source from above the filter, but what about a return? Can I just plumb it back? (i.e. -- add a sandwich adapter, have the filter-out to the turbo, filter-in from the turbo)
What about the oil level sensor? Is that already drilled -- can I steal that hole? I really don't want to drop the pan, that's all. [img]smile.gif[/img]
You don't have to drop the pan, but yes, you do have to drill it for the return.
Get under there and look around, there are plently of spots on the pan to drill. I did it right under the crank pulley, which might not have been the best idea, because if I want to access it I have to remove the crank pulley- but it was the shortest drain possible and thats what I was going for.
Drain your oil, get a magnet, and greese up your drill bit and slowwly drill the hole, and catch all the shavings with your magnet. To get the excess run a couple liters of crappy oil through your engine a few times and then it'd probably be a good idea to change your filter.
Another reason not to go with a sandwich adapter, is it's the only good way to hook up an oil cooler to your system, which I HIGHLY reccommend.
It's not as big as a deal as you think, just a little scurry when it comes down to it.
AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
One thing you have to remember is to place your hole at the top of the pan close to the flange where it meets the block. You want you oil to flow into your pan without the oil in your pan blocking it. If your hole is one inch below the flange, your pan will still hold five quarts below the hole. Instead of draining your oil before you drill, I suggest you add a few quarts befor you drill. This way when you drill, or use a rotary file, the chips will fall outside the pan with the oil as it spills out. Yes, this is messy, but effective to keep crap out of your engine. After you are done, drain your oil, replace it, run the motor, then drain it again and change the filter. With fresh oil in the motor, place a few magnets on the bottom of the pan between now and your next oil change. This is what I did and it worked well for me. Don't wear your favorite shirt that day.
Well what I did was find a 1/2" NPT tap and then the drill bit that accommodates that is a 45/64s, drill, tap, screw in a 1/2" NPT fitting from Home Depot and fill in the sides with JB weld just to make absolutely sure it won't leak.
That's just how I did it, I know you will have problems finding that tap and drill though, I sure did.
If you want to pay for shipping on the drill bit, I can send it out to you to borrow it, there was literally only one place in town that carried it. The tap might be easier, but it's a friends and I can't loan it out.
AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
I agree mostly. You will have to drill the pan. I used a magnatized and greased up drill bit to catch all the shavings, didn'thave any problems with that. At the front of the motor you cna drill it in the corner at the top or at the bottom, there is no oil there really all the oil sits at the sump in teh bottom of the pan. I drilled mine at the bottom most part to get that extra gravity drain.
Go slow on the drilling and clean the bit often to keep **** out.
xj, I must admit, I took a look at the tap / die / bit selection we have at the shop, and I'm kinda puzzled. We have two 1/2" taps: 1/2 - 13, and 1/2 - 20. And I saw an 11/16 drill bit, close to the 45/64 you mentioned, and it's GIGANTIC. Much bigger than the tap, did you by chance mis-type that size?
Thanks folks, looks like I will be drilling, using magnets and lotsa oil. [img]smile.gif[/img] Project starts in a few days.
-Rob
Wow 43 bucks. Hmm.. Well if you restrict your oil drain size you are compromising the life of your turbo, and I don't know if I would want more then one hole in my pan, but it's up to you.
AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
Can't sleep, and late night math is killing me. Two 3/8 holes is >= one 1/2 hole. So looks like that's what I'll do (since I seem to recall having a 3/8 npt tap at the shop).
Updates in a future thread of mine.
-Rob
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