hey i have been hearing about these Mcaanda Instructions for putting in a supercharger and was wondering if anyone knows where i can find them
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look harder next time.. they are not hard to find.. *cough* a few threads down links were posted..
http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=4;t=002093
grayman also has a pretty good amount of info about it on his website..
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Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:
look harder next time.. they are not hard to find.. *cough* a few threads down links were posted..
http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=4;t=002093
grayman also has a pretty good amount of info about it on his website..
Just trying to give back to the worlds best auto forum.
Hey, ATGNAG, I have been meaning to ask you...how do you feel about doing a 'basic overview of wide band sensor' write up? You would have your own page, to help noobies and stuff figure out what/when/why...basics of those $400 + wide band upgrades vs. simple narrow band A/F.
Let me know what you think. If your are interested, I will make up the html page and host on my 'unleashed' site if you could just do the basic write up. I think it would go pretty far in getting some people over the initial hump of "....wide band...what?"
G.
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I just got my wideband and HP tuners in the mail, i might write something up on themwww.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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I know alot about the wideband stuff.
But i have been super busy, new job, moving out, getting engaged.. ect ect ect ect..
Tell yah what, Give me a week or two and I will see what I can put together.. I will try to find enough content to cover all the general stuff, and I will try and cover the basic aspects of street tuning and using hpt with a wideband guage. (ie no dyno)
I will probably be pretty bored at work tommarow.. we will see..
and *cough* i am sorry, i dident check the link, I have it here if you need me to email it to you..
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Um, I will check my site. I know It worked before...both clicking the mcaanda link to open acrobat or right click and save. It will be fixed right now.
Yo, that would be Awesome ATGNAG. No hurry, realy. I didn't want to push so hard as to mention digital tuning...but glad you brought it up. All that you mentioned would be a great addition and a big help to many.
I like the idea of a few featured pros having some pages on the site. All in the family, like.
Yo, Viper.... Dude! Nice car man. Nice job. Great website too. But, Hey, do me a favor? Don't come 'round Seattle with dat rig, k? Know what I'm sayin? Don't come out here making me look all getto and ****... proaching up on my turf and all.
Thanks Thor.
This V6 stuf sure is a kick in the pants. 231 screaming cubic inches. I've been an advanced home mechanic since....well, way back then...but ya'll here have been a remarkable resource for transitioning into the world of modern tech and specialty tech such as FI that I just have to contribute something even if it is mainly repeating what I've learned rather than personal inovation. (There is a little bit of inovation, though, here and there.)
Oh, checking on those mcaanda links now.
G
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blackFbird98, here it is.
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/MCAANDA.pdf
my bad. was linking to my hd not weblink.
Happy Hot Rodding.
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allight this is what i have so far.. i know it needs to be edited, so no *****ing as of yet, its a work in progress..
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Widebands and Tuning
Bill (allthegoodnamesaregone/missing2)
There are a lot of reasons to get your hands on an in-car wideband setup. Common reasons range from the ability to tune on the street or at the track, data acquisition, avoiding costly dynometer time, and safety. Hopefully this document will help clear up things you may want to consider when purchasing a wideband gauge and how to use them.
You know you want one, but why!? ANYONE and I mean anyone with a modified can benefit from a wideband gauge. With forced induction, nitrous, and big all motor setups you would be crazy not too. Think of the hundreds or even thousands of dollars you spent on your engine. Do you want to leave your air fuel ratios up to chance? Even the best of tuners sometimes make mistakes at the dyno, or perhaps your local shops sensor is old and has never been serviced. An in-car wideband is cheep insurance in those cases, most costing under $500. For the DIY tuner or if you are new to tuning they would be a must have for obvious reasons. I personally have yet to take my car to a dyno since I obtained my wideband gauge, thus saving a lot of money. I have found that tuning the car under street conditions provides a more accurate tune as well. Keep in mind this if fine for slower “street cars”, a few 0-60 blasts never hurt anyone, however if you are cracking into the low 12’s / 11’s you may want to consider taking it to the track. Even then a few days at the track is cheep in comparison to $100-150 an hour on the dyno.
Also keep in mind that narrow band gauges are cheep, but they are also pretty worthless. They can only accurately read a “narrow band” of air fuel ratios depending on what they are calibrated to read accurately. Ex the ones on your car stock are designed around the AFR of 14.7 or the Stoichiometric ratio for that given vehicle. And with only one volt of output rage it dose not read much more or less then that target AFR. Aftermarket ones have different target AFR’s however they are still not good for tuning. I wouldn’t even use one as a safety measure, they are simply inaccurate. There is a lot of good information on the net about this topic already so I will stop here. All you really need to know is that narrow band sensors are worthless if you are doing your own tuning.
Things to consider before buying a gauge:
- What type of output does it have? (Some are only 0-4 volt or pseudo widebands try and stay away from those)
- Required features: portability? Gauge readout/style? AFR Range? Ect..
- As we all know you want a high quality gauge. There are a lot of cheep gauges out there, go with a brand name you know and trust. Also ask around, do research. It’s a growing market and there are new companies jumping in every day.
- Will it work with your data logging or engine management system? (make sure it does)
Typically, most gauges will offer an analog or digital display, 5-volt analog output, narrow band simulated output, and some form of data logging. Look for one with a good easy to read display. At the track while you are taking a pass, you are not going to have the time to read a number, look for a gauge with a sweeping display as well as the raw numbers. Both the LM1 and the AEM wideband gauges offer this feature (additional cost on the LM1). I prefer the AEM as it is color coded, which is at times is handy, it makes it so if I am way off I know almost instantly even if I am not looking directly at the gauge. A benefit of the LM1 however is that it is somewhat portable with a few inexpensive sensors one could take the wideband with them to various cars. This cuts costs if you use the system with friends, or have a lot of cars you wish to use it on. The LM1 also offers a few additional data acquisition options at an additional cost.
With software like HP Tuners on the rise, that have wideband inputs, the generic pre-packaged data acquisition systems that come with wideband systems are less important. In that case all you need to be concerned with is that it has the proper 5-volt output. If you plan on buying a Tuning package such as HP Tuners, be sure to buy it with the inputs for the wideband gauges output. It’s worth EVERY PENNY to be able to log the wideband readings along with all of the other various engine parameters in real time directly from the ECM. It’s less critical for the casual user, but almost essential for the DIY tuner.
SO make sure you have and easy to read display, and connectivity with your logging or EMS applications and you are ready to go. The installation is pretty strait forward on most wideband systems. Anyone familiar with installing car stereo equipment is probably capable of wiring it in under two hours depending on the vehicle/system. However keep in mind you will probably need to take the car to an exhaust shop to have a bung welded in to your exhaust tract. You will want to install it before your catalytic converter, but after your y-pipe for a single sensor setup.
What is all of this good for again? Now that you have your sensor picked out, installed, and your tuning software configured. You are ready to go. This section I need to leave somewhat generic as tuning is different from car to car. However I will cover some of the benefits of using HP Tuners with a wideband setup. On most modern GM cars there are two forms of tuning Mass Air and Speed Density. Most people don’t need to worry too much about Speed Density, and it is well beyond the scope of this article and this author’s experience (but will be soon).
Unless failure occurs your car will run fueling based on its mass airflow sensor. In the even of a failure it falls back on speed density and runs off your VE tables. Thus VE tables are not an essential part of tuning, but more a safety net in the even that your mass air system fails. They should be addressed as well once your MAF tune is in order.
The Mass Air sensor takes a reading and after various adjustments via other sensors and parameters it calculates the amount of fuel to be injected into your motor. It is important to understand what the enrichment and enleanment tables to do your base mass air calculation when tuning. After careful review of histograms and other engine data you can begin to make changes. Take it slow and in small increments. Also never edit a value if you are not 100% sure of what it does. Key tables for most people will be the MAF table it self, and the PE (power enrichment) tables. These tables offer the most consistent and radical changes to your engines fueling. Edit with caution, and verify your changes by taking a peek at your widebands readings after you load your new tune.
Take it slow, ask a lot of questions, and it will be fine. Also keep in mind this document is not intended to offer any advice on how to tune, that it left up to you the user. I cannot be held responsible for poor judgment or damage to your engine. Spend some time reading your product documentation, and be careful out there.
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Wow, lookin good man.
Feel free to email it to me when you are all ready. Or post it in Gen Tech or something and remind me to go grab it.
I can handle pics as well...if you have a digi camera and feel like making a "what works for me and my fbody...and how i did it" supplement as well.
I agree with your feelings of responsibility/not responsible in putting out formal or semi formal guides. I am all about disclaimers myself. I think we are pretty good though... reminding people now and then that they should not take everything as law...search and research on their own, etc. But you are already right on target with giving noobs a good heads up and intro for what is possible, what and why, etc.
Very cool Bill.
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