Tuning problems with Powerdyne, need immediate help

[Blazzin Joe]

At idle im getting about -1 to 6 degrees of timing advance and sometimes it drops to negative numbers.

Next part to add to the puzzle, it appears my o2's go into Open loop, they stay constant around 850-930ish they do not fluctuate like they should at idle, the car appears to think its at WOT when the charger is hooked up and running air into the intake while at idle.

The throttle body plug modification where you install a plug into the pcv valve inlet will not work. (Im working on a seperate idea to solve the pcv problem making the dipstick pop up)

This is really becoming a nitemare... I really need to speak to someone who has the unit on a newer car and find out what their car is running like at idle and discuss some of the problems im having.... Someone please share some insight...

[Blazzin Joe]

one more part, i have solved the erractic idle problem, it still surges a little bit 50-200 rpms but it does not stall...

it will stall however if you blip the throttle and allow the blade to close the car will drop down to double digit rpms then surge to 1,000 and then back and forth then it dies....

Ideas?

[Magnus]

MAF and IAC working ok? TPS ok?

[DEE97GTP]

I don't know much about your kit. But are you building boost at IDLE? IS the bypass working correctly? Is your MAP sensor connected. The MAP is telling the PCM what load is on the engine. You need to plug the PCV to prevent the SC from pressurizing the crankcase. You might look into getting a crankcase breather as well.

Do you have an autotap? It would be interesting to see MAF values, MAP values, IAC count, timing, injector pulse width. What is your fuel pressure at idle?

DEE

[ January 14, 2003: Message edited by: DEE97GTP ]</p>

[Blazzin Joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by DEE97GTP:
I don't know much about your kit. But are you building boost at IDLE? Is your MAP sensor connected. The MAP is telling the PCM what load is on the engine. You need to plug the PCV to prevent the SC from pressurizing the crankcase. You might look into getting a crankcase breather as well.

Do you have an autotap? It would be interesting to see MAF values, MAP values, IAC count, timing, injector pulse width. What is your fuel pressure at idle?

DEE<hr></blockquote>

Magnus this is for you too!

When we auto tapped it lastnight (we still had rough idle problems, i have since fixed that) the injector pulse width was fluctating around 11.XX at idle and timing was going from -1ish to +5/6. fuel pressure at idle sits around 40psi. Engine load at idle was around 7.6.


Hope this helps, i wont have the autotap back over here until after 4 to see how we still stand on the readings.. Im going to work on the PCV system today and see about plugging the throttle body hole and making a new plate that holds the pcv valve in place that has a breather line coming from the top of it to allow the system to vent w/o using the throttle body passage. Will also be getting some sort of filter for the oil cap to help the engine breathe.

Edit: I am not builting boost at idle

[ January 14, 2003: Message edited by: Blazzin Joe ]</p>

[DEE97GTP]

Since you know you have boost or not, what vacuum are you running at idle?

What is the stock fuel pressure, isn't it like 46psi or so? So at idle, it should be around 28 psi or so if you are pulling 18 degrees of vacuum.

DEE

[Blazzin Joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by DEE97GTP:
Since you know you have boost or not, what vacuum are you running at idle?

What is the stock fuel pressure, isn't it like 46psi or so? So at idle, it should be around 28 psi or so if you are pulling 18 degrees of vacuum.

DEE<hr></blockquote>

Precharger, i had the guage hooked up and was pulling 20lbs of vacuum and at idle the the fuel pressure sat close to 40psi.

With the charger hooked up im still pulling 20lbs of vacuum give or take and 40ish psi of fuel pressure while at idle.

[Riles]

How come the pcv modification won't work? It seems that if you plug the hole, and put a crankcase breather somewhere else, everything should be fine, right?

Why not put a 3/8 air fitting in the tapped hole, and then run a very slim hose out of it to either a new hole you could drill in the trottle body, or somewhere else that would vent into the engine compartment?

Basically, the problem is just that the crankcase needs a new place to let out air, right?

I'm trying to figure this out as well, because, if everything goes right, I may have a powerdyne soon too...

[slacker69]

We fixed the problem with the PVC valve
We took some thick gasket material and made a gasket that covered the hole. The gasket is made out of a rubbery material. And then we put a crankcase breather on the passenger side valve cover or at least i think he has the breather on now. He took the BOV off cause it was causeing a uneasy idel and if u rev the engine it would ethier almost die or would die. So i think we are narrowing it down i think next we need the timing control module.

[Ironman24]

Did you install the fuel pump and FMU?

I've been running the 6lb pulley for a while with the timing retard unit at 0. Unless it's in the 90's outside and nasty humidity I haven't needed to retard the timing at all on mine.

[Blazzin Joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ironman24:
Did you install the fuel pump and FMU?

I've been running the 6lb pulley for a while with the timing retard unit at 0. Unless it's in the 90's outside and nasty humidity I haven't needed to retard the timing at all on mine.<hr></blockquote>

FMU is on, no fuel pump though. I will tackle that at a later date. The car seems to be running much better however i still get a little knock 1 or 2 degrees at WOT on the top end. The BOV = HEADACHE, even when i routed it back into the intake system i was still having idle issues :sigh: .

Still working on it though [img]smile.gif[/img] i will get everything ironed out soon. I will have my exhaust put on this weekend, getting a new y-pipe made and 3" mandrel bent all the way back.

[Superv6bird]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ironman24:
I've been running the 6lb pulley for a while with the timing retard unit at 0. Unless it's in the 90's outside and nasty humidity I haven't needed to retard the timing at all on mine.<hr></blockquote>

Same here. I just took off the timing retard because it wasn't needed.

[Arctc Wolf]

for tuning purposes, I suggest getting wideband O2 sensors so that u can get the car back into closed loop and tune it correct. ZZPerformance sells a breather for our cars. check all the sensors in case something burned out or broke.