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You will need to P&P your heads, intake and get a bigger tb.
A intercooler would be a good idea.
The torque converter is dependent on the cam, so pick your cam first.
You will want about 38lb/hr injectors and bigger fuel pump.
Do you know what turbo you are going to get?
You could also P&P the turbo if you want.
\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe
average cost 4 P&P heads, intake, and bigger tb?
what kind of cam do u recomend?
I am getting a custom build kit w/ intercooler
do i need that big of injectors?
Originally posted by blk02bird: "p&p heads, p&p the tb, get a little bigger injectors and throw a nice turbo cam and with only 8-10psi you should be well over 350whp"
i found this through searching about turbo power.
also i want to get a torque convertor, what would you suggest?
I put down 323hp on 8-9psi with a bone stock motor with 87k miles on it.
Past Ride
1995 Firebird A4 3.8 Turbocharged -- 12.50 at 108
(If you dont know me, you haven't had a V6 long enough)
I don't know how much porting coats because I do my all my own porting.
I can't say for a biger tb because I never priced one for a 3.8L.
You could get new injectors for like $300 or get used ones for less then $50.
For a cam I would go for some thing like 216*/228* with a LSA of at least 112* to may be 114* and how ever much lift you can get.
\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe
Originally posted by oil pan 4: I don't know how much porting coats because I do my all my own porting.
I can't say for a biger tb because I never priced one for a 3.8L.
You could get new injectors for like $300 or get used ones for less then $50.
For a cam I would go for some thing like 216*/228* with a LSA of at least 112* to may be 114* and how ever much lift you can get.
ahh that not a turbo cam......
there are no aftermarket TB for the L36 that i know of, ours is huge already....
for turbo cam you want somthing like 224/225 and 114-116 LSA
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
thanks guys
where would you suggest i pick the cam up from?
any idea of a cam cost?
also, i know a dumb question, but,
any idea of power put down on
02 3.8 v6 firebird, turbo, intercooled,224/225 cam, 36lbs injectors, and walbro fuel pump?
running t/a take off exhaust w/ electric cut out
and will the torque convertor help, would i need to do anything else to my tranny?
before you spend all that money on extras i would get your turbo done and see how you like it. you probably wont care to much about the extras after you feel the power of the turbo alone. also the stock cam works fine with turbos, i would suggest you pnp the heads later on and then get the injectors and an hp programmer for your car and tune the hell out of it. the programmer will be less work than a cam and will probably give you more power.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
yeah the torque converter will help. i think the vigilante was the brand most were suggesting. also very good exhaust choice. there isnt much more you can do to your tranny that doesnt cost an arm and a leg other than a shift kit (which i never noticed much of a difference from). the only thing i would recomend to you before the turbo is lsd with 3.42 gears.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
No it's not a pure turbo cam, it is what I recomend.
When you start to have LSA'a over 114* you lose a lot of low end torque.
You were to run well over 10 psi he would need a totaly different cam.
If you want to run 10psi don't go over 114* or it will kill you low end, most turbo v6's take great pride in there low end power.
A 224/225 with 114 lsa would be great, that duration looks like a blower cam more than any thing.
There was a chevy high pro mag that dino tested cams with different LSA's more LSA gave more hi end power and less low end.
What you realy have to do is spec out the cam you want, factor in advance and go from there.
You have to know when the valves are opening and closeing, where the piston is and put all your other factors in there to beable to get the perfect cam.
\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe
The ICL is the point where the lobe is it's highest point.
Don't forget about ECL (exhasut center line), because ICL is only half of the problem. Each lobe has a center line.
A change in ICL & ECL will change your LSA.
LSA is soly dependent on ICL & ECL. LSA is a product of an equation from the ECL and ICL it is:
(ICL + ECL)2/ = LSA
Like with a DOCH engine with there 1 cam for intake and one cam for exhaust, there cams dont have LSA becasue they set it with the timeing belt. They can independently/manualy set the ICL and ECL so that the "peak valve open" can be where ever they want it and they can have how ever much over lap they want.
ICL, ECL, LSA, lifter lift (the @.050 you see) and duration determin how much valve over lap your engine will have.
The only way to reset the LSA on one of out cams is to have it reground.
With a real mild street engine you won't have much over lap if any.
With a strong N/A moter you will have to run a lot of over lap to make power, you will also have to run higher C/R so you can scavigen the cylinder better (also fights detonation) and idel at lower rpms, that is why higher C/R "tames" a big nasty cam. You will also run higher idel vaccume with a higher C/R.
With a mild to moderate turbo you will want little or no over lap because back pressure will blow exhaust into the chamber and contaminate you intake charge (causing detonation).
For a high power turbo you will want over lap, the car will be set up all wrong when it runs at low rpms (big cam, low cr, intake valve that opens after TDC closes at like 45*+ ABDC) but when the boost comes on at higher rpms your gone.
I could know a lot more about the relation ship between cam (and its timing),A/F, C/R, intakes, the difference in Al and cast iron heads, porting, ignition timing curves and boost from a turbo (with or with out or just nitrous and no turbo). I could even go on with torque converters and rear gears and exhaust.
I don't feel like typing any more and think I killed the explain ICL question several times over.
\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe
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