looking for turbo tuning advice and tips

[oil pan 4]

hehe....
I was just going to say but viper04af all ready said it.
You can go richer than 11:1 if you want, but if you do it will get to a point where fuel won't atomize very good. The little droplets of fuel will cause detonation, when they land on the spark plug ground arm if it's hot enough or if they land the cermic (white part) while the engine is under a tough load.

[njp98]

Just wondering how exactly does the excess fuel make more power, what is the science involved?

Does this excess fuel make the engine run hotter or cooler and does it make it more prone to detonation?
Will this extra fuel also cause some black smoke out of the exhaust or is that only if the car is running at like 7:1 AFR (I believe mine was somewhere around there because of the initial starting with 42lbers with a 22lb tune and was belching black smoke.)
Also, should I aim for 14 at idle, 12.5 at cruise, and 11.5 boosted?

[HAZ-Matt]

Originally posted by njp98:
Just wondering how exactly does the excess fuel make more power, what is the science involved?

It doesn't. It makes less actually.

Does this excess fuel make the engine run hotter or cooler

cooler

and does it make it more prone to detonation?

less prone to detonation

Will this extra fuel also cause some black smoke out of the exhaust or is that only if the car is running at like 7:1 AFR (I believe mine was somewhere around there because of the initial starting with 42lbers with a 22lb tune and was belching black smoke.)

If your AFR is past the stochiometric point (rich side), unburned gasoline will go out the exhaust. Any amount that isn't oxidized in the catalytic converter will flow out the tail pipe. The more gas out the tailpipe, the more black smoke you will see.

Also, should I aim for 14 at idle, 12.5 at cruise, and 11.5 boosted?

They say that you aim for around 11.5 on the dyno because the load is less than when the car is actually accelerating on the road, and so you want to make sure you have a large enough safety window .

[AllTheGoodNamesAreGone]

God dammit grundle hunden.. i wastent talking about track times at all.. all of thsoe numbers are related to AFR..

I feal they are pretty acurate from my own experiences and what I have read..

but to make things simple.. shoot for an 11.5 at WOT.. then tune your spark from there.. a lean enough condition could/will induce KR..

that is pretty much all i was saying..

[Lionel'z Camaro]

Which turbo should I get for the 2000camaro, 3800?

also, should I twin turbo it or super charge it?

[T-Punk]

well if you are talking about a kit to buy i would go with tiago's turbo kit, its the only turbo kit for our cars. now if you want to go the way of the one off then your choices broaden considerably. now you have to decide whether to spend the extra money on a twin for minimal gains over a single, or go with a single and save some money. if you go single i would suggest contacting teuful hunden, he has an excellent system though i am not sure about his notched k-member ;) but anyway he should be able to give you some tips on that. now if you go with a twin setup i would suggest t-25 turbos, they are reletively inexpensive and will offer some pretty substantial gains, you could also dig up a pair of vnt-25 turbos and have optimum performance at every rpm range but those will cost you some money and will be hard to come by as they have been discontinued. also make sure you get a decent IC, other than that get an adjustable fmu, a bov, probably a walbro 255 fuel pump, and wastegate(s) if the turbos dont have internal ones (or you get a vnt, just to be safe), and perhaps a HPprogrammer to optimise your performance.

[Arctc Wolf]

Air/Fuel ratio's need to depend on where you make more power safely. on a stock motor with a turbo kit, to run more boost, either more fuel has to be injected(to cool off the combustion chamber to prevent detonation), retard timing(reduce detonation), or reduce intake temps(IC, water injection, more efficient compressor, ect.). on a motor like this, with stock timing, it is a safe bet that at 10 psi, you'll wanna have 11:1 A/F ratio. now, upgrading the internals of the motor will allow for more boost with the same A/F, or a leaner A/F for the same boost level. Porting and polishing heads increases the detonation threshold, and so you could bump a/f to 12:1 maybe. thermal coatings on the combustion chamber and piston face would also reduce detonation since less heat would be transferred into the metal. Also, cryogenic treating the motor will allow it to handle much more stress(more heat, more torque, more rpm, ect) than normal.

[oil pan 4]

Detonation proof combustion chambers, I have a good example on my cardomain site.
Cam timing will deside how well your cylinders are scavenged. That can do it or break it all.
Oil controal is important yet is the most commenly over looked detonation cause. Also it is very easy to cure in most cases.

[Ike]

Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:
God dammit grundle hunden.. i wastent talking about track times at all.. all of thsoe numbers are related to AFR..

[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

But seriously, if you have the tuning suite, you shouldn't need the fmu at all. You should be able to tune in a fuel curve based on air flow and the like. Speaking of which, do our pcms have the ability to tell psi? We do have a MAP. I mean, they must have a little bit of skill at it incase I wanted to drive up in the mountains where there is less pressure, but maybe they don't have a table for it like GTPs. Anyone know the answer to that question?