Crank Strength??

[White95]

Does anyone have a clue on how much HP a stock 3.4L Crankshaft can take??? I'm in the middile of my Turbo/Rebuild and the crank is becoming the weakest link. How do I go about getting a better one if the stock one can handle it???

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by White95:
Does anyone have a clue on how much HP a stock 3.4L Crankshaft can take??? I'm in the middile of my Turbo/Rebuild and the crank is becoming the weakest link. How do I go about getting a better one if the stock one can handle it???

tiago put down 400 RWHP on his.

[White95]

I might be a little past that number with my set up and I don't want the most important piece to snap in half...

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by White95:
I might be a little past that number with my set up and I don't want the most important piece to snap in half...

his is still going strong, nothing happened to it lol

[T-Punk]

i believe the # was around 600 crank hp/torque before it will snap.

[Tiago]

yea I think the block will be come the weak link first, main caps distorting woudl be a problem too. I wish there were some kind of billet 4 bolt main options available... Or you can fab a girdle.

[White95]

I'll ask the my machine shop when I'm ready to drop it off. Thanks for all the help guys!

[White95]

Would it matter that I'm replacing the main bolts with studs????

[oil pan 4]

Studs yeald a higher maximum plastic deformation strength factor when compaired to bolts.
That means that the metal that the studs are made of can be equaly as strong as in the bolt, but by design the studs will hold a higher load before they bend or stretch.
The fastener is strong enough, the anchor isn't.
The crank will tear apart the block, most likely by deforming the caps then deforming the mains on the block, one with the torque and two by pulling in the metal where the studs anchor deforming the block.

[oil pan 4]

I was going to get a 3.4L crank and get it cryo treated.
Along with some rods.

[White95]

So what your saying is I should look into getting some new main caps??? And cryo teating the crank and block wouldn't be a bad idea???

[oil pan 4]

Treating the block would be extreamy expensive.
I don't know where you could get other than stock main caps.
The used stock main caps should be fine because they only had 160hp beating on them.
If cash is tight treat the main caps and rods, because those will most likey be stock parts and the first to fail.
And throw the new rings in as well while your at it.
Cryo treating costs around $10 per Kg or a little less than $40 for 20lb. That sounds cheap and I will recheck the numbers.
Cryo treating pistons has been proven to fight detonation like all most nothing else.
Forged after market pistons would be second after rods and caps for me.
Next time the guys at the cryo plant have to dump a tank I'm going to see if I can get a bunch of liquid nitrogen from them and experment with it on metals. Small things like knives/blades, cutting bits, punches and chisels.
When you have limited choices like this you have to change the orignal parts propteries.

[White95]

Well I'm getting Forged Pistons and Rods, and better wirst pins and rings. So all I have to worry about is the crank and mains....

[Tiago]

there is no aftermaket four bolt mains available or they would be the way to go. The studs will help but they wont solve the ultimate distortion at high power levels. We'll see.

[oil pan 4]

The stock rods are forged.