Initial turbo kit release!

[Radcat]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 3800addict:



[img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] I doubt any stock motor will handle 20 psi if you hold it. Sorry but I am going to call [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] on that one. 12 psi maybe with higher octane gas.<hr></blockquote>

I was running 15psi on pump gas with mine. Just need to control detonation. Mine started detonating or so I thought so I turned it down. I was getting spark blowout. My msd was fried :(

[MustangEater8251]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago:


do something with it ;) <hr></blockquote>

Maybe its fate that there is a Sunoco gas station with 100 octane gas across the street from me. ;)

[ September 16, 2003: Message edited by: MustangEater8251 ]</p>

[nocutt]

I cannot say what the 3800 or 3.4 will hold in terms of boost...but ppl confuse dynamic compression with static compression most of the time...put it this way, the turbo doesn't care if you had 20:1 CR, or 7:1 CR...you loose room to compress when you have a higher static compression coupled with FI...therefore you loose your available tunnig window, or better yet you REDUCE the tunning window...however you can run 30psi IC'd on a 9.4:1 CR, as long as you have the available octane, less spark advance...and of course with a lot of tunning experience!
I will not recommend a novice to run more than 7psi...I have run as much as 11psi and believe me...it is really scary!! :eek:

[Tiago]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 3800addict:



[img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] I doubt any stock motor will handle 20 psi if you hold it. Sorry but I am going to call [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] on that one. 12 psi maybe with higher octane gas.<hr></blockquote>

Don't open your mouth about what you dont know. 12 psi is nothign, I run that on pump gas all day, everyday.

My stock bottom end motor has held 20 lbs in more then one occasion, on some long pulls too. It just about controlling detonation.

[ September 17, 2003: Message edited by: Tiago ]</p>

[Swift_3800_F-Body]

talk about a non-fun car, retarding spark, constant worrying about detonation. the 3800 v6 may not be weak but the rods and pistons i assure will not like boost at all. as i see it, for the price of a turbo setup + rebuilt engine, a v6 is not worth it, you might as well turbocharge a maxima, or non turbo supra, or grand prix, something that doesnt come with a v8 option, because the lightly modded v8 will still own a turbo six. getting 12's with the LT1 is quite easy. 12's with the LS1 is as simple as minute rice. i think this turbo v6 thing has become a ricer phenomenom, there are a very few orignal people on here that have fast v6 f-bodys because they have hookups, infact tiago has all the equipment to built a kit it seems, so he could build one himself in no time with very little cost and he has the knowledge to be able to tune the car correctly. But for all the trouble i believe the L36 is not a good idea to boost unless you beef it up a bit, because it will fall apart in a small time with higher boost, and i dont believe 7 psi is worth all the trouble for making close to 300 hp when you can buy a LT1 f-body for 7 grand, and modify it to 400 hp easily, the car just wont be worth it. the f-body was made for a v8 and thats just how it is... if you want speed, get a v8. because a v6 wont cut it unless you plan to use the buick 3.8, what happened to all the people wanted to swap from a v6 to a v8? too much money? heh, dont ya know if your engine fails with the turbo it will cost more than the swap for a v8 will, especially if you cant do the work yourself or dont have the tools. an engine swap cannot be that hard fellas, i mean, sh*t, people do LT1 swaps into 3rd gens in the back yards all the time. are we just all talk and no turning wrenches or what? ther eis no easy way, cheap snap on power is not anything special, cold air intake... lol, removing maf screen, its not hard work, shame on you if you bought a slp fan switch for $75 thats the biggest waste of money i have ever seen. it cost me $4 dollars for a switch and wire. took me 45 minutes to splice into the j & h wire, run the wires through the firewall, under the dash, to a hole i drilled into the dash, sodder the wires to the switch then connect a wire to the ground and there... a fan switch.

so keep on saying that boost doesnt effect bearings, push rods, connecting rods, crankshaft, gaskets, pistons, rings, or anything.
any DSM, Supra, GN, Impreza, owner will tell you boost is not your friend unless your engine can take the abuse, because thats exactly what it does, it beats up your whole engine. id figure you guys would talk witht he GP owners more, they have the engine that can handle higher compression, and even they have problems, and believe me the L67 can take alot more abuse than the L36, one last thing, retarding spark is way too much BS, if your engine cannot take the abuse in the first place it has no business with forced induction. retarding the spark is jsut going to make you lose gobs of horse power.

[Swift_3800_F-Body]

one last thing...


it would be nice to have a slightly quicker v6, for $3100 this is a nice price and making out a little better than the LT1 with only 6-7 psi is great, i dont believe its worth anything more than that. i would buy this kit tiago, but... i have turned to bigger fish. although in the near distant future i will most likely buy another v6 f-body and turbocharge it, (it would make a nice daily driver) and it would be quite fun. just right now im looking to make big power with big displacement, its a cheaper bang for buck, but anyone that wants a quick consistant 14 second car, this is a good deal.

consistant low 14 seconds is alot faster than most people think. just dont expect a v8

[nocutt]

You know what? I think I might puke if I see your nonsensical post about what you think you know? Seriously...you have a point but it is getting to become a cliche..."why beat a dead horse" do you get it at all? My close buddy has a bird Fbody-8 he swears by Natural Aspiration...he had the money to get a blower but spent it all on Non aspirated mods!!?? He likes it...cares less about FI! That is him...meaning everyone is different...jeez!
If you think that making a stock engine produce 50% or 100% more power than factory specs and expect your engine not to loose longevity you are only building castles in the air...but the jury has spoken, remove detonation from the mix...your engine will see more livability! Most engines which are FI'd from the factory (eg GM) have about 15 degree of timing advance at WOT. The stock L36 has about 23-26 degree of advance...it will be a good idea to remove some if you aren't using high octane or you will detonate...however you CAN still run as much timing as you want with the available octane and NO KR...what don't you understand here? And so you know the L67 and even L36 is built better than a LC2 block...yes the L67 and LC2 can hold more pressure than the L36 due to their different bottom ends but we mean MORE PRESSURE and this means the L67 will have to reach its crossover before exceeding the L36 due to the L36's higher CR and efficiency...there isn't any magic formula...just common sense especially for the novice ;)

Swift_3800_F-Body have you ever seen the bottom end to an L67/L36? Stay at the stock Rev limit boost away, keep KR away...7psi IC'd is only the beginning...the point is L67s/L36s need to also carve out there own niche, why use an LC2 when the technology has beaten to death? BTW how do you think the buick guys felt 16 years ago when GM decided to call it quits...they never did...look at their community now!!

[hou-tex-six]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nocutt:
You know what? I think I might puke if I see your nonsensical post about what you think you know? Seriously...you have a point but it is getting to become a cliche..."why beat a dead horse" do you get it at all? My close buddy has a bird Fbody-8 he swears by Natural Aspiration...he had the money to get a blower but spent it all on Non aspirated mods!!?? He likes it...cares less about FI! That is him...meaning everyone is different...jeez!
If you think that making a stock engine produce 50% or 100% more power than factory specs and expect your engine not to loose longevity you are only building castles in the air...but the jury has spoken, remove detonation from the mix...your engine will see more livability! Most engines which are FI'd from the factory (eg GM) have about 15 degree of timing advance at WOT. The stock L36 has about 23-26 degree of advance...it will be a good idea to remove some if you aren't using high octane or you will detonate...however you CAN still run as much timing as you want with the available octane and NO KR...what don't you understand here? And so you know the L67 and even L36 is built better than a LC2 block...yes the L67 and LC2 can hold more pressure than the L36 due to their different bottom ends but we mean MORE PRESSURE and this means the L67 will have to reach its crossover before exceeding the L36 due to the L36's higher CR and efficiency...there isn't any magic formula...just common sense especially for the novice ;)

Swift_3800_F-Body have you ever seen the bottom end to an L67/L36? Stay at the stock Rev limit boost away, keep KR away...7psi IC'd is only the beginning...the point is L67s/L36s need to also carve out there own niche, why use an LC2 when the technology has beaten to death? BTW how do you think the buick guys felt 16 years ago when GM decided to call it quits...they never did...look at their community now!!<hr></blockquote>


I agree 100%

Swift, Ive got a bottom line for you, you dont know squat. All you ever do is post your findings and revelations of what people should do to make their cars "quick". Why dont you just go along and do whatever you wanna do and save us from your trash "knowledge" you have come across. Thats exactly what 99% of your posts are, worthless trash. You've never built anything and yet you come on here telling people what does and doesent work, and what parts they need to buy.
Tiago drives his car every freaking day on the parts you read about in magazines. And he RIPS on that car every sngle day. Trust me I know cause that focker wakes me up every morning when he takes off to go to work abusing the Kumhos down the street. So people interested in this kit dont listen to this Swift dumbass who deserves a swift kick in the *** , listen to someone who knows what hes talkign about from experince.

Cp

[Tiago]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by hou-tex-six:



I agree 100%

Swift, Ive got a bottom line for you, you dont know squat. All you ever do is post your findings and revelations of what people should do to make their cars "quick". Why dont you just go along and do whatever you wanna do and save us from your trash "knowledge" you have come across. Thats exactly what 99% of your posts are, worthless trash. You've never built anything and yet you come on here telling people what does and doesent work, and what parts they need to buy.
Tiago drives his car every freaking day on the parts you read about in magazines. And he RIPS on that car every sngle day. Trust me I know cause that focker wakes me up every morning when he takes off to go to work abusing the Kumhos down the street. So people interested in this kit dont listen to this Swift dumbass who deserves a swift kick in the *** , listen to someone who knows what hes talkign about from experince.

Cp<hr></blockquote>


hehheeh, its like an alarm clock in da monin, you shoudl be up cookin brakfas or somthin by then... LMAO /bubbrubb


now, swift, please keep your mouth shut, you have proven more then once you dont' know ****.

If you ever ridden in my car you would feel as I do that, LS1s aren't ****, nothing short of heads and cam ls1 makes me feel any better then my car, and then we are talking big money there. The TQ a turbo creates is so bad *** , and it comes on so smooth, it puts you in the damn seat. I can run LS1 numbers at the track with 7 psi, what would 14 psi do? no doubt much better. Its just a matter of time for peopel to start experimenting and putting down the good numbers, if mine aren't that good enough yet.


Go build yoruself an LT1 and let me knwo how easy it is to hit 12s. I say it is still a good 3000 at least into mods.

[mattsv6]

i am sick and tired of people saying that we dont have V8's. no ****ing **** guy. i made 40+ pounds of boost from a t72 with my 3.4.my motor is still alive and i will own almsot all the cars in my town. does this mean i suck cause i dont have an 8 cyllinder? this is why i hate posting on v6 boards! becasue even v6 guys say "its jsut a six". total nonsense and i am sick of it!

[Radcat]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mattsv6:
i am sick and tired of people saying that we dont have V8's. no ****ing **** guy. i made 40+ pounds of boost from a t72 with my 3.4.my motor is still alive and i will own almsot all the cars in my town. does this mean i suck cause i dont have an 8 cyllinder? this is why i hate posting on v6 boards! becasue even v6 guys say "its jsut a six". total nonsense and i am sick of it!<hr></blockquote>

JustaV6 is going to be my liscense plate. Let them all learn the hard way that it's just a v6
:D

[mattsv6]

i wish i could jsut get ****YOU-8. i hate this garbage.

[jc Kyle]

my license plate says
SLICK V6

when i get this turbo together, it will be [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Swift_3800_F-Body]

IM NOT CUTTING DOWN THE STRENGTH OF THE BLOCK, IM SAYING ITS ALOT OF [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] WORK ESPECIALLY FOR THE L36, SINCE IT CANNOT HANDLE THE SAME PRESSURE AS THE L67 AND THE AMMOUNT OF POWER MADE AT A SAFE MAXIMUM FOR A TURBO STOCK L36 IS LESS OF THAT THEN A LIGHTLY MODDED LS1, THE POWER MADE AT 7-9 PSI WOULD BE CLOSE TO THE LT1 SS CARS. 280-290 RWHP, WHICH IS QUITE FAST, AND OF COURSE TWEAKING MORE POWER OUT OF A TURBO L36 CAN BE DONE, BUT ITS NOT REALLY WORTH IT IN MY OPINION.

AGAIN... A TURBO V6 IS A NICE STREET CAR. ID TAKE ONE ANYDAY, BUT ITS NUTHING CLOSE TO A TURBO V8 OR WELL MODDED V8.

40 PSI ON THE 3.4, LOL YEA YOU SHOULDNT EVEN BE ON THIS SITE, YOU SHOULD BE ON THE GRAND AM OWNERS CLUB TALKING ABOUT WAYS TO FIX A 3.4 AFTER THE ENGINE COMPLETELY CRUMBLES, WHICH IT WILL... I HAVE KNOWN A FEW TURBO GRAND AM GUYS THAT WHERE RUNNING 11'S CONSISTANTLY FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS. THEN THERE ENGINES SLOWLY TURNED TO SH*T

[xjarayax]

Whew I'm glad you typed it in caps so I didn't even bother reading that garbage.