Update for those interested....

[phoenix64]

Originally posted by Linxs:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RGB:
If you put 40 lb/min in the top cell when it should be 60 lb/min, then you would need to band aid it with adding fuel with PE. But would not not explain seeing 11,500 Hz if you are not making 600 hp.

Think about it this way. Compare a 4 inch pipe to a 2 inch pipe. Say you can push 6 PSI out of both pipes. If you compare them it would feel like the small pipe is pushing more air because it has a small area. My theory is essentially the same. If I upgrade my piping after the intercooler to say 3” or 3.5” it’ll have more area mass and will not be as concentrated in the center of the new MAF. Does that make sense? </font>[/QUOTE]So you have a 2.5in pipe running into a 3.5in MAF?

What do your MAF readings look like? Do they increase smoothly or jump around?

[ February 22, 2005, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: phoenix64 ]

[Drone51]

thought you had 3" piping after the intecooler or did you change it?

[Linxs]

It's 2.5". The exhaust side is 3".

[nocutt]

My hats off to you Pat...really!! You have some testicular fortitude :D ...
anywayz I am noticing so much inconsistencies here...
so you bought a MAF from whomever...but even HPT does not have a table for this MAF? What about ZZP? I know a member turbotim runs an LSx can't you use that as a baseline...or even Intense? I am sure they use a "true MAF" this will give you a tremendous headroom because they have more than 500hp in their turbo car...
What you are doing is shooting in the dark, essentially...which is really not good, too many variables will end up skewing where you need to be...if you say you have xxx hp and from your MAF we can you are flowing ~40 lb/min however if the MAF is inconsistent...then we can also assume the xxxhp is inconsistent...remember you run the chance off jacking your FTrims also and indireclty affect timing becareful...85mm MAF should be all you need for your mods...


NB:
Another thing to make sure you are looking at is turbulence...whether you have a screen or not...how far you are to the TB counts when blowing thru...I am throwing this out there because of what you said about reaction with the MAF...
Yes it sucks...I hate turbos too ;)

Edit: Okay it seems I OVERstand what you are trying to do...you did not explain this, I just went to read HPT website and it seems you can log in MAF Frequency (Hz) vs Dynamic Airflow...right? I thought you were taking shots in the dark :eek:
Let us know where you @

[ February 22, 2005, 05:12 PM: Message edited by: nocutt ]

[Linxs]

Yes you can read the Hz signal coming from the MAF, through the PCM.

I took off my connection pipe from the downpipe to the cat. lastnight. And I had to turn the dial back on the PSI. I'm down to 8 PSI. I took it off cause the automatic cut out is not working correctly and i'll be getting the replacment in the mail soon. Interesting find though. I can run 10PSI with the pipe and only 8 with out it...

[HAZ-Matt]

Originally posted by Linxs:
I can run 10PSI with the pipe and only 8 with out it...

Did the intake temperatures change when you took the pipe off?

[Linxs]

A little but not much, It was 63 degrees yesterday morning (no trouble yesterday morning with it on), It was about 68 this morning

[RGB]

With the cat the MAF tops out (Hz) at 10 psi and without the cat the MAF tops out (Hz) at 8 psi? Oversimplified: with the cat is causing an extra 2 psi to be left in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke that you have to turn up the boost to over come?

[Linxs]

Originally posted by RGB:
With the cat the MAF tops out (Hz) at 10 psi and without the cat the MAF tops out (Hz) at 8 psi? Oversimplified: with the cat is causing an extra 2 psi to be left in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke that you have to turn up the boost to over come?

That's what it looks like, That's why i bought an automatic cut out. But the darn thing is not working correctly. Additionally, it feels like i lose HP as well (keeping the PSI the same), which i guess should be obvious. When i was running 6 PSI with the pipe on it felt like i was loosing 50 HP. Which kinda makes sense since my Average HP gain per PSI is 22 (330 - 175 (base HP before turbo)= 155 / 7 (PSI at 330HP)=22.14 per PSI (average).

[ February 24, 2005, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: Linxs ]

[phoenix64]

You should also be able to run more timing with the exhaust open. I'm pretty sure my timing problems are related to my 2.5in exhaust, and clogged cat.

[HAZ-Matt]

Or you can run really retarded timing to increase spool, a la ALS or "bang bang" systems ;)

[nocutt]

The full timing advance on the L36 is all you need for a turbocharged setup...it is less to be gained by going higher...
Like already mentioned play more with retard...it will help spooling characteristics...

[phoenix64]

Originally posted by nocutt:
The full timing advance on the L36 is all you need for a turbocharged setup...it is less to be gained by going higher...
Like already mentioned play more with retard...it will help spooling characteristics...

I meant put timing back in it. I don't think he is running anywhere near full timing. I have had to pull 12*, last I saw linxs was pulling 15 in some places.

What kind of timing are you running nocutt?

[nocutt]

Originally posted by phoenix64:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by nocutt:
The full timing advance on the L36 is all you need for a turbocharged setup...it is less to be gained by going higher...
Like already mentioned play more with retard...it will help spooling characteristics...

I meant put timing back in it. I don't think he is running anywhere near full timing. I have had to pull 12*, last I saw linxs was pulling 15 in some places.</font>[/QUOTE]Oh I C...

What kind of timing are you running nocutt?

Depends...I have the ability to change it on the fly...generally I run only 4.5psi of boost and use full timing thru the whole band 22.x degree when I decide to do go up the califronian mountains ;) I pull about a total of 12 especially mid range and add about 5 more at the top giving a total of ~15-16 degrees with 10psi
...sorry you asked :D

[RGB]

[/QUOTE]
Edit: and this is the LS1 600HP MAF from SLP. I have a theory as to why I am maxing it but I want to talk to someone before I post it. [/QB][/QUOTE]

In addition to looking at even air flow, you might want to look at removing the resistor that SLP solders in. This resistor makes the MAF reach 11,500 Hz QUICKER! than without it. Fine if you want an 85mm MAF to read like a 75 mm MAF (so you don't have to do tuning), but not good if your moving a lot of air. Google shows sites that indicate the SLP MAF reads like a truck MAF after removing the resister. The MAF table for a truck is availible (I couldn't fine a MAF table for a SLP MAF).