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I was just wondering if some can give me the specs of everything I need to do the switch from 6 to 9 psi. Belt size, pulley size, ect., I would greatly appreciate it.
Also, I was wondering what kind of extra strain this will do to the engine and will the extra 3 psi make that much of a difference, is it worth the extra strain on the engine.
Modifications:<br />headers, throtle bod spacer, flowmaster, high flow magnaflow carsound cat, powerdyne sc with 2.9\" pulley and by-pass valve, walboro 255 fuel pump, spec stage 2 clutch, and HP Tuners
thanks Mighty Thor, I do have headers and a flow master dual exhaust.
Modifications:<br />headers, throtle bod spacer, flowmaster, high flow magnaflow carsound cat, powerdyne sc with 2.9\" pulley and by-pass valve, walboro 255 fuel pump, spec stage 2 clutch, and HP Tuners
you are already doing the 255 fuel pump. um I think most 9 pound runners here dont always upgrade injectors...???...pretty sure most seem to have stock injectors and are ok.
I take it you got your fuel pressure gauge working. I know narrow band A/F gauge is frowned upon...but it will help tell you if you are lean at WOT. If you don't feel like permantly installing one you could always velcro it...temp like.... It might be worth the $50 investement. insulated quick links would help...you could bust out the A/F gauge if you are curious about things in the future as well..cloged injectors...stuf like that.
I think you are already doing the most important thing, though...the whalbro.
If you need part numbers for the belt I have goodyear belt chart on my site. I believe the dayco belts have the size of belt as last digits...abc103 = 103" belt, etc. A parts store that sells dayco should be able to cross reference a goodyear belt...or you can ask to look on their shelves if the girl at the counter keeps asking for your vehicle type...
Or,,,rattle of all your mods and vehicle year/engine size, etc...until shee gets dizzy...calls for the floor manager and then you and the manager go look for a 103" belt on their shelves. [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img]
True Story.
oh, hey...off topic...
Did your kit come with a plastic tension pulley?
Mine did. I noticed that using different leverage implements on the plastic pulley was making it warp and bend so I swapped it out with one of the steel pulleys that came off the car for the S/C.
01 Firebird A4 3.42
Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
and other mods
Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.
Grayman, no I did not get my first fuel pressure gauge to work had to send it back, must of had a short in it or something. JEGS sent me a new one and it works fine. I do have an A/F gauge but I think it is crap, It bounces around to much until your under high boost. I never did figure out if I have it hooked up right.
Yes, my kit came with a plastic tension pulley. To tighten mine I just put enough tightening pressure on it to hold it pretty good then took a big metal chisel and placed it against the spacer behind the pulley and tapped it with a hammer until the belt was tight. Then just tighten the nut the rest of the way, worked fine for me.
Oh yea, can anyone tell about how much does the pulley cost and where I can get it. Also, do you need to get a groved one and if so does the groved one cause premature belt wear and how much more wear will it put on the powerdyne.
Modifications:<br />headers, throtle bod spacer, flowmaster, high flow magnaflow carsound cat, powerdyne sc with 2.9\" pulley and by-pass valve, walboro 255 fuel pump, spec stage 2 clutch, and HP Tuners
Originally posted by 2002 v6 camaro uncharged: Thanks guys,
Grayman, no I did not get my first fuel pressure gauge to work had to send it back, must of had a short in it or something. JEGS sent me a new one and it works fine. I do have an A/F gauge but I think it is crap, It bounces around to much until your under high boost. I never did figure out if I have it hooked up right.
Yes, my kit came with a plastic tension pulley. To tighten mine I just put enough tightening pressure on it to hold it pretty good then took a big metal chisel and placed it against the spacer behind the pulley and tapped it with a hammer until the belt was tight. Then just tighten the nut the rest of the way, worked fine for me.
Oh yea, can anyone tell about how much does the pulley cost and where I can get it. Also, do you need to get a groved one and if so does the groved one cause premature belt wear and how much more wear will it put on the powerdyne.
www.aspracing.com
Check out their site...but they do not have the v6 fbody powerdyne pulleys listed. get their phone number from website and call them. You want a cross cut or horizontal cut grooved pulley..2.9 or 2.8. They also make a spiral grooved pulley but an imformal opinion pull I took a while back (but thread was deleeted from board) summed up that the multiple spiral grooves may induce more rapid belt wear than the cross cut grooves. Also dayco and gatorback belts seem to be the strongest belts at least best suited for our needs. so the cross cut grooved pulley's seem to be the way to go. something else to try is to have a machine shop cut a single 1/32" wide by 1/32" deep spiral groove down the center of pulley to relieve air pressure between the belt and the pulley. You can always do that later though if you wish. I think MThor was/did do this. Not sure if he gave an update on how it works.
Oh, the ASP pulley are $125.
I think I will be doing a 2.8 cross cut pulley and also a BOV or recirculator at the same time.
That is my next opinion pull to take...BOV with powerdyne....
Just remembered...regardeing your original topic....You may want to pull more timing with your TRC when you upgrade the pulley. more pressure = hotter air. Somebody may be able to suggest a setting. I think the crane module is increments of 2 degrees timing retard per notch on the dial. i am not sure about your timing unit. the mcaanda instructions suggest a setting of '2' on the TRC which if I have it right would be pulling 4 degrees of timing with the 6 psi pulley. So you may want more than 4 degrees of timing retard. Anybody have input on this?
01 Firebird A4 3.42
Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
and other mods
Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.
Yea, that is how a narrow band A/F works. It sounds like you have it hooked up right. It is all bouncy bouncy at idle/cruising...sometimes it will even give no reading...until WOT. It is not so much high boost but full throttle that will allow the gauge to give you a good/accurate reading. In that instance it is still a way to see whether or not your engine is running lean, stoich or rich. You don't want lean. BOOM. The narrow band is not for tuning...just a safety precaution.
01 Firebird A4 3.42
Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
and other mods
Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.
Thanks for all the needed info Grayman I had the BOV installed on my powerdyne. My father did it for me, he made connections at work and welded them directly to the intake and discharge tube. Then we change the hookup of the boost gauge and connected directly to the BOV.
Modifications:<br />headers, throtle bod spacer, flowmaster, high flow magnaflow carsound cat, powerdyne sc with 2.9\" pulley and by-pass valve, walboro 255 fuel pump, spec stage 2 clutch, and HP Tuners
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