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  • Blown out turbo bearing

    Ok guys, this is driving me crazy! I have detonated my second turbo oil bearing. I know it is under warranty and will have to get it rebuilt, but I am trying to prevent this for next time. What are you guys using to control pressure to the inlet? I have a needle valve and
    a .035 restrictor plug to get the pressure down from the base 60psi on the gauge. Does anyone have any better suggestions? What should I be getting at the inlet to keep the smoking away!
    Thanks!

  • #2
    Originally posted by CM boyd:
    Ok guys, this is driving me crazy! I have detonated my second turbo oil bearing. I know it is under warranty and will have to get it rebuilt, but I am trying to prevent this for next time. What are you guys using to control pressure to the inlet? I have a needle valve and
    a .035 restrictor plug to get the pressure down from the base 60psi on the gauge. Does anyone have any better suggestions? What should I be getting at the inlet to keep the smoking away!
    Thanks!
    Wierd. THat same thing just happened to me. The turbine oil seal started leaking oil into the exhaust, and I got a great smoke show.

    There is no visible damage or cracking on the seal. I had my oil pressure set at about 90psi. I think that is what caused it to go out.

    I took my setup to my local speed shop, and they said I ought to back my OP down to the stock 50-60psi and maybe the leak will go away.

    EDIT: CM Boyd, what car/engine/turbo do you have? I have a 99 3.8L with a T04 turbo.

    WHere do you get your oil from? I get mine from the hole where the oil press. sensor used to be. It comes right off the pump there, so it is at a really high pressure.
    1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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    • #3
      Same here! I just used a brass tee-block fitting and 5/16 npt adapter to get the signal (find it at autozone) Are you using a restrictor? The turbo is a Garrett .63 A/R housing. Not sure of the compressor, I got it from East Coast Turbo. The guy said that the bearing is only good for about 30psi max. The car is a 99 Pontiac Firebird with a Remote style of turbocharger kit
      (like the STS one) that I hand built. The thing
      smokes harder than an addict on pot! It spools much better with the smoke coming out, but it is illegal and so embarrasing! The oil is sumped out by a 12 volt gear pump.

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      • #4
        I have a traditional front mount turbo kit.

        It is an AiResearch T04 with a .81 turbine. I don't have a restrictor, I am just blasting 90psi into the turbo.

        I think that if I back my OP down, the oil seal will close back up and reseal itself. I will also look into a restrictor like you mentioned.
        where do I get one of those?
        1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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        • #5
          I researched and found McMaster-Car to sell brass ones. Get the .035 restrictor. I used a needle valve also that you can buy from Home Depot. Just use copper tubing on each end and flare them, to fit on transmission hose. How the H***
          did you get that turbo to last longer than a few minutes with that kind of pressure!!!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            It didn't last more than a few minutes. it only has like 10 miles on it.
            1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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            • #7
              That is what I thought... It will take a few days to get that restrictor valve. If you hae a dremeltool and a little ingenuity you can use some brass fittings with a recessed plug and tap a tiny pinhole in them. This should work well. Go buy the needle valve and some 5/16 or 3/8 copper tubing and transmission hose. Don't forget the clamps. The guy at East Coast is going to sell me another turbo at a bargain of $300. I am going to buy another one and have this one repaired so that if it happens again I don't have to cannibalize the entire setup and wait to get another turbo! If you need pics of what I am talking about, then I can email you a link.

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              • #8
                I would like it very much if you could email a link. It is hard for me to picture what you are describing without visual reference.

                THanks
                1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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                • #9
                  I sent it to you. I hope you find it useful. I hope someone can help me with my problem too [img]smile.gif[/img]

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                  • #10
                    I've been thinking about your problem and how I can prevent it on my install. As for regulating the pressure...still working on that one, but for monitoring it I came up with this one.

                    After searching on summitracing.com I discovered that oil pressure sending units aren't that expensive and here's the deal. Install a sending unit with a gauge before the turbo (mounted under the car), and another sending unit after the suction pump with a gauge mounted in the car. I would imagine that you wouldn't want the suction pump pulling more than what's actually going into the turbo, therefore "cavitating" the turbo bearing. Installing the needle valve before the first sending unit so you can actually adjust the pressure going into the turbo bearing, you can actually see what you have by the gauge.

                    Just a thought...let me know if you think this is BS..
                    Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kahouna23:
                      I've been thinking about your problem and how I can prevent it on my install. As for regulating the pressure...still working on that one, but for monitoring it I came up with this one.

                      After searching on summitracing.com I discovered that oil pressure sending units aren't that expensive and here's the deal. Install a sending unit with a gauge before the turbo (mounted under the car), and another sending unit after the suction pump with a gauge mounted in the car. I would imagine that you wouldn't want the suction pump pulling more than what's actually going into the turbo, therefore "cavitating" the turbo bearing. Installing the needle valve before the first sending unit so you can actually adjust the pressure going into the turbo bearing, you can actually see what you have by the gauge.

                      Just a thought...let me know if you think this is BS..
                      Im down with that!
                      If it cant Flow it, FORCE it!<br /><br />1999 M5 Camaro RS. Boost is on the way. Cartech FMU, 255 intank, T3/T4 BB 62-1 , Stage 5 turbine wheel .63 A/R.

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                      • #12
                        Where you been Kahouna? How is your project coming? Did you get the last couple of emails I sent you? That is a great idea!

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                        • #13
                          I've been around. Busy at work..yeah right!! Seriously, I'm trying to get everything together so I can start putting it on in April/May. Yeah, I got your emails. Sorry I haven't responded recently. I've been meaning to call you, probably do it this week to see how you're coming along. I'm inquiring with some of my "turbo" friends about the restriction of oil pressure. If we come up with an idea...you'll be the second to know.
                          Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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                          • #14
                            Okay...I think I've figured it out. If you've ever noticed while driving, the oil pressure rises up to approximately 70-75psi, and when at idle it lowers to about 60psi. Here's the thing: I spoke to a bunch of my turbo buddies who are helping me with my install (since I know nothing past the basics of a turbo setup). After talking with them about this issue, we all agree that no matter what pressure you have going into the turbo bearing, you must absolutely have just a slight increase in pressure going out of the turbo. Most guys go with a size -4 line in and a -8 or -10 return. Seeing how most traditional setups are mounted under the hood, the oil return is simplified by using gravity directly into the pan. With the rear mount kit, obviously requires a suction pump to get the oil back to the engine compartment. The way to regulate the flow back to the oil pan/valve cover/ etc...would be to install a needle valve or some type of compression fitting in the return line BEFORE the suction pump. This would eliminate the chance of cavitating the turbo bearing. Plus, the MOCAL pump has a set screw to adjust the flow through the pump. One way to monitor the flow out of the turbo is to mount a sending unit with an oil pressure gauge mounted inside the car. This would not only allow you to visually see the pressure coming out of the turbo, but would also verify the pump is working. If the pump isn't working, there would obviously be an INCREASE in pressure due to resistance. In order to calibrate the pressure going INTO the turbo as well, mounting an in-line oil pressure gauge before the turbo would help. This way you can visually see that you're input is a slight bit less that your output. Not by much though, there should only be approximately 5-10psi difference. As long as there is a continuous flow of fresh oil to the bearing, and a free flowing return, it shouldn't matter what psi is going to the turbo bearing. I was also advised that as soon as you turbo a car/truck, it's a good idea to switch to synthetic oil, and if not it's important to use the correct grade of oil to ensure a well lubed bearing. This is coming from guys who've driven and worked on turbo'ed cars for 15+ years.

                            Does this make sense? I've been beating myself silly trying to visualize this and how to prevent disaster to the life of the turbo. So, if any of this helps, or you can apply it to your system....let me know how it works, so I can do the same when I install mine..!!

                            Good luck bro and keep me up to date on any progress!
                            Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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                            • #15
                              Are we just talkin about remote kits here, or is this in general? Also, If your "pulling" oil out with the pump in all essences, you could be pulling too much and starving the bearings of oil...if anything I'd say you'd want an equal pressure on each side. Just an even flow through the turbo. I'm so confused as to this aspect of the project also. I'm going with a front mount design with probably very little gravity flow to the pan so i'm gettin worried that when I start this thing i'm gonna kill my turbo....
                              1994 Camaro: Firebird Interior, 3.4L to 3800 converted, OBD2 converted, A4 to M5 converted...In the turbo retirement home...<br /><br />1994 Mustang GT: 347 Forged Stroker, Port Matched Edelbrock Heads and Intakes, Tremec 3550 T-5, Spec Stage 2

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