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  • #16
    Yep. Be prepared for some smoke and headaches. Thanks to Kahouna I am going to try every idea to make this work without having this problem happen
    again. tdz16 if you need a pump then look at the
    Mocal differential pump. I bought mine at www.enginegearonline.com

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    • #17
      It seems to be a slight different principal with a gravity forced return, rather than using a suction pump. By just relying on gravity, it somehow evens itself out and allows a continuous flow to and from the turbo. BUT....with the use of a suction pump, apparently different physics take effect which requires a slight increase in return flow in relation to pressure flow. I'm guessing it requires a larger line with a compression fitting to regulate the return pressure so you don't have TOO much return. Like I said previously, there should only be a 5-10psi difference. It's not much, but apparently it's enough to prevent pooling and pressurizing the bearing. I am by no means an expert in physics, but this makes sense to me if you think about it. I am afterall....an aircraft hydraulic mechanic so I know a little about fluidology...hehe
      Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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      • #18
        I went to Grainger today, and they sold me a little flow control valve for hydraulic apps. I had it spliced into my oil feed line. I can now control how much pressure gets to the turbo. I am going to set it for like 30psi. Hopefully that will stop the leak.
        1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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        • #19
          could you somehow link to the adjustor?
          1998 Chevrolet Camaro L36 M5<br />1982 Toyota Celica Supra 7MGTE project car - FOR SALE<br /><br />\"I find the most sensual part of the woman is the boobies.\" - Zap Brannigan

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          • #20
            Heck yeah bro...that sounds exactly what we need. Any links and pricing would help. Even a part number....
            Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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            • #21
              http://www.grainger.com

              The part # is 1A853

              It is about 24bucks. I got mine at the local grainger store, so I don't know about shipping cost.

              You can save some dough and get the NPT fittings from them as well. THey are listed at the bottom of the page for like 87cents apiece.

              I haven't quite figured out how it works. I need to hook up a gauge to find out what setting corresponds to what pressure. I blew into with my lips though, and it works very well at restricting flow.
              1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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              • #22
                Good link. Thanks for the info!

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                • #23
                  Should I get one of those even though I'm doing a gravity driven system? I feel like 70 psi being pounded into the turbo is too much...any help would be really appreciated guys...thanks
                  ~Tom
                  1994 Camaro: Firebird Interior, 3.4L to 3800 converted, OBD2 converted, A4 to M5 converted...In the turbo retirement home...<br /><br />1994 Mustang GT: 347 Forged Stroker, Port Matched Edelbrock Heads and Intakes, Tremec 3550 T-5, Spec Stage 2

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by tdz16:
                    Should I get one of those even though I'm doing a gravity driven system? I feel like 70 psi being pounded into the turbo is too much...any help would be really appreciated guys...thanks
                    ~Tom
                    Yea,
                    Im going to get one for my gravity fed setup. 70 psi is a little much. I think the turbo would be happy with 25psi. We did a Turbo conversion on my buddys 03 Cobra. He had a build motor 85+psi oil pressure. He had a Brand new Precision turbo, lasted about 2 days and took a **** on the track @ the 1/8 miles and shot a smoke cloud that coverd the whole track. Some one should call Precision and see what they say about the required oil pressure to make a turbo live.
                    If it cant Flow it, FORCE it!<br /><br />1999 M5 Camaro RS. Boost is on the way. Cartech FMU, 255 intank, T3/T4 BB 62-1 , Stage 5 turbine wheel .63 A/R.

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                    • #25
                      with a gravity fed system....it's not really necessary. According to my import turbo friends, they apparently don't have this problem. It seems evident that it's only if you're using a suction pump in the return line. A friend of mine has a Civic that's been turbo'ed for 2 years and he's putting 75 psi to it running 15 lbs of boost. In those 2 years, he's NEVER blown the oil seal. As long as you have a free flowing return that's going to the pan....you should be GOOD TO GO!!! But......then again...import setups might be slightly different in this aspect. The turbos might be different as well, or it's possible to upgrade the psi of the actual seal. I dunno...just passing along the info I'm getting.


                      Christopher: have you installed a high flow cat, or just removed it? If so, did you go with the O2 sims, or are the stock sensors doing the job for ya? I'm figuring that since there's an O2 sensor after the cat, if I go with a high flow or just hollow out the existing one I'm going to be dealing with an SES light. Just another silly question.
                      Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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                      • #26
                        THe speed shop I use in town is a precision turbo dealer. THey told me that they only put 25-30psi into thier turbos. They don't need anymore to operate well.

                        What do you all mean by gravity feed?

                        My turbo is NOT a remote mount, it is right under the hood. I have a SS braided hose running from the oil pressure sensor to the turbo, with my flow control valve spliced into the line. My oil return line is just a 5/8" rubber tube that flows oil into the oil pan. The turbo is mounted above the oil pan, so does that mean I have a gravity feed?
                        1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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                        • #27
                          Gravity feed is just when the oil return flows back into your oil pan by force of gravity without the use of a scavenge pump or separate pump(like the incon systems do when the turbos are below the oil pan, so pumps are required to get the oil flowing back out of the turbo).

                          Yours would be gravity fed by the description.
                          AIM: Alientr8tr<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/583450\" target=\"_blank\">1998 Camaro 3.8L</a><br />Flowmaster 80-series, !FRA, Eibach Springs, KYB AGX, SLP sway bars, 3.42/LSD, Wings West kit, Z06 Motorsports, Silverstone Metallic paint<br /><a href=\"http://www.shift5.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Shift 5</a> - My Band

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                          • #28
                            I think the fact that we're squeezing 75 psi through a 3/16" or 2/8" hole and allowing it to flow out a 5/8" hole is kinda what allows the gravity fed systems to not use a control valve. Even though your pushing 75 psi through the line, your fluid flow will be a lot lower because of the diameter. Not to mention it has a huge hole to leave by. I'm gonna give it a shot...if i get black smoke, i'll get a valve...
                            ~Tom
                            1994 Camaro: Firebird Interior, 3.4L to 3800 converted, OBD2 converted, A4 to M5 converted...In the turbo retirement home...<br /><br />1994 Mustang GT: 347 Forged Stroker, Port Matched Edelbrock Heads and Intakes, Tremec 3550 T-5, Spec Stage 2

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                            • #29
                              you shouldn't have any pressure on the return line if it's gravity fed anyways. Even on a scavanged system, the line downstream of the pump shouldn't have pressure...FLOW...yes, but not pressure. Remember, resistance causes pressure, and unless you have some sort of compression fitting, or needle valve on the return line....you should have NO pressure.

                              TDZ: What you are expalining about the return line being larger in diameter than the pressure makes total sense, and how the flow to the return should be consistant enough to allow for a well lubricated bearing.

                              Malice: yes, you have a gravity fed return.
                              Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD....you wanna hit it, but you\'re affraid of the consequences...<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244935</a>

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by tdz16:
                                I think the fact that we're squeezing 75 psi through a 3/16" or 2/8" hole and allowing it to flow out a 5/8" hole is kinda what allows the gravity fed systems to not use a control valve. Even though your pushing 75 psi through the line, your fluid flow will be a lot lower because of the diameter. Not to mention it has a huge hole to leave by. I'm gonna give it a shot...if i get black smoke, i'll get a valve...
                                ~Tom
                                You might as well get a valve..24 bucks for insurance is a great idea. If you blow a seal its a b!tch, you have to pull the turbo and have it redone.

                                I have a $1400 Turbonetics turbo...I dont feel like rebuilding it again. Im going to order a valve. Actually their is a Granger right down the street from me.
                                If it cant Flow it, FORCE it!<br /><br />1999 M5 Camaro RS. Boost is on the way. Cartech FMU, 255 intank, T3/T4 BB 62-1 , Stage 5 turbine wheel .63 A/R.

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