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  • L67 and L36 Pistons

    Weisco wants me to send in one of my pistons so they can make me some more. I was wanting to know if there is any lubricating difference between the L36 piston and the L67 piston, cause I was gonna go turbo. I am just sure Weisco will just copy my piston and give me new forged ones. Better safe than sorry, I may buy 1 L67 piston and send it to them. Anyone know the part number? Any help is appreciated. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

    [ June 24, 2002: Message edited by: 01camaro ]</p>

  • #2
    This is already in forced induction. Why multiple posts?

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    • #3
      Use L67 rods for whatever piston you go with, they are stronger.
      Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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      • #4
        unless you're getting the pistons for less than 950 bucks, i suggest getting the forged .020 overbore forged 8.0:1 compression pistons from www.3800performance.com. they're 998 bucks for all six and come w/ new rings and wrist pins as well.
        2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Arctc Wolf:
          unless you're getting the pistons for less than 950 bucks, i suggest getting the forged .020 overbore forged 8.0:1 compression pistons from www.3800performance.com. they're 998 bucks for all six and come w/ new rings and wrist pins as well.<hr></blockquote>

          Unless you put a wicked small turbo on there so it spools up super quick 8:1 is gonna be a dog on the low end. For something that is still gonna be used on the street I wouldn't go any lower than 9:1.

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          • #6
            dog down low but can you say monster up high [img]smile.gif[/img] im talking viper eatin v6 [img]smile.gif[/img]

            and with a nice high stall converter [img]smile.gif[/img] i thhink it would spool ok [img]smile.gif[/img]

            [ June 24, 2002: Message edited by: Jason Morgan ]</p>

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            • #7
              anyone notice that most of Arctic Wolf's posts regarding internal engine and pistons more specifically all he posts is about the overbore pistson and what compression to run. Am I the only one to notice this?
              1998 Arctic White 3800 V6 :mods: Whisper lid with K&N, SLP Cold Air induction kit, 50hp shot of NOS, KVR Front Brake Rotor blanks and KVR Carbon Fibre Metallic Pads (set of 4), BMR Strut Tower Brace, BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod, BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets, BMR Control Arms, BMR Sway Bars, B&M ripper shifter, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, H&R lowering springs, and Flowmaster exhaust: MORE MODS AND WEBPAGE SOON!!!

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              • #8
                no, I've talked about inconel exhaust valves/manifolds before. I've also blabbed on about how good hot rockers are and how gm supposedly makes aluminum heads for our cars. I just like the pistons because they give us an extra 1-2 cubic inches to play w/ as far as power goes, and nobody has to know out internals aren't stock. The stock L36 internals aren't the greatest in you plan on throwing on some big power adders, so why get stock L67 pistons when you can get better forged pistons that are bigger bore? besides, isn't this topic about pistons anyway?
                2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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                • #9
                  almost forgot, when you stroke out your engine, the compression increases. so if you were to get 8.0:1 compression pistons and added .1 to the stoke of the crank(3.5 in.), you'd get around 8.5:1 compression(I think). Look for formulas to figure out compression depending on bore and stroke. of course, when getting a longer crank, you'll have to shorten the rod the same amount, so instead of running a 5.750 in. rod, you'll have to run w/ a 5.65 in. rod, just to be safe. if i knew the deck height of our blocks, I'd be able to come up w/ a stoker pkg. for our cars. lastly, when stroking the engine, it's better not to run higher rpms. This has a lot to do w/ rod angularity and rod stress. I'd advise not raising the redline much higher than stock. yes, all this is expensive since there are not stroker kits out there for our cars, but it's just another path one could follow.
                  2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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