Tweet
well i'm getting main studs so that helps a little and i am for sure getting the cryo treated
-
Ben<br /><br />1995 White/Black 3.4L<br />As far away from stock as possible<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=288292\" target=\"_blank\">My Site!!!</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.redlinevsix.com\" target=\"_blank\">RedLineV6</a><br />Rebuild and 3.4 T70 Turbo is complete<br />Details to come.... -
The problem is that the studs or bolts pull on the block and deform the base of the upper main bearings.
It dosen't matter what the fastener is made of they will deform the block.
Now on a heavly boosted 3.4L (about 20psi or if it's on a 120hp+ shot of nitrous) there will be a peak of 27,300lb's of force pushing down on the piston and that will be spreed between the 2 closest main caps and the 4 bolts that hold them to the block. That is 6825lb's per bolt. Now one forged 8740 steel threded .44'' wide (i'm guessing) main stud should hold back 20672lb's before snaping.
That is for a stud, numbers will be a little lower for a bolt. I gave low numbers for the bolt strength any way.
So there realy is no question that the hard ware will hold. The block will explode before those main bolts will break.
I will have to go look up the plastic deformation value for steel, that is what you use to find out how much the steel can take before it warps permantly.
I think it is around 70-90% of the tensile strength of the bolt(20672lbs)when you have pulling forces only on the steel.
Now torquing alone will warp the main bore, but the bore was honed with mains torqued. Standing main bores will be truly straight.
Now what I'm thinking is over torque the mains and hone them so it will take more pulling to deform them when there at normal bolt toruqe.
You also have the main bearing that acts like a buffer for deformation.
To make your blocks' mains stronger/deform less you will need to over torque and hone the mains (trust me it won't get you a hole lot but you will get some) and install the main bolts deaper in the block. As in drill and cut the threds deaper, if you even can do that with out hitting some thing.\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabeComment
-
I won't be putting the engine together. The machine shop will be and they know it will be a heavly boosted engine, 18psi being the max it see once or twice a season if that. I'm sure they'll know how to make them hold a slight beating :)Ben<br /><br />1995 White/Black 3.4L<br />As far away from stock as possible<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=288292\" target=\"_blank\">My Site!!!</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.redlinevsix.com\" target=\"_blank\">RedLineV6</a><br />Rebuild and 3.4 T70 Turbo is complete<br />Details to come....Comment
-
The company is reuptable, and you should definately send as much as you can to them if you are going to cryo treat. And yes, you can do anything metal.
;) Good luck!Comment
-
Some people say you can do more than just metals with cryo treating.
There is a company in back home in maine that does plasma nitriding. That is what I am looing into now for my rods and crank.
I might have to get the rods reheat treated but am not 100% sure.\'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabeComment
Comment