adapting a powerdyne to a 98+

[dmw319]

i have an option of buying an rksport powerdyne supercharger (1995-1997) used only 300 or so miles for around 2100 shipped. it comes with everything no parts missin (supercharger/fmu/crane cam timing retard/piping/etc..) what all will i need to adapt it to my car?? (2000 camaro). i read the post 99v6camaro who did this. but i just want to be sure before i purchase the kit. thanks!

[ February 05, 2006, 11:27 PM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[Mighty Thor]

The guy selling it to you, is that person a member here?

You definately need Grayman's website for the complete guide on this.

http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/guide.htm

Since yours is a straight TB and the 95-97 PD is for the angle TB you can either do two things. Take the discharge tube to a machine shop and make it fit yours or cut where it angles out and connect a flexible tube from the tube to the TB. Grayman has a picture of that.

Also be sure to plug you PCV hole at either the TB or at the intake manifold.

Also get a colder plug like the NGK TR6 gapped at .032-.035.

Just read Graysman's site on this and then re-read it before the install. Good Luck.

[dmw319]

its someone from this site. and itd be a 6lb pulley.


"Also be sure to plug you PCV hole at either the TB or at the intake manifold."
????????????

also, will these work?

[ February 06, 2006, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[1DangerousV6]

the gauges will work..but the narrow band AFR is basically a waste of money


just cut out the mid section of the discharge tube and replace it with silicone hose..i've done this several times

[Mighty Thor]

Originally posted by dmw319:



"Also be sure to plug you PCV hole at either the TB or at the intake manifold."
????????????

This will help prevent blowby's or presurizing your crank.

[dmw319]

yea i read up on graymans site and it makes sense now. i just gotta get the parts to do it first. here is a complete lits of parts i am planning to buy...

-rksport supercharger : pic : $1900 shipped
-autometer sportcomp elec. fuel pressure gauge #3361: link on ebay: $193 shipped
-autometer boost gauge # 3301: link on ebay : $49 shipped
-autometer dual pod pillar: link on ebay : $61 shipped
- 6 NGK-TR6 plugs pre-gapped at .035: at thunderracing.com : $22 shipped

grand total of $2,225. everything look ok?

the only thing im missing is the tubing (what kind should i get, size, where? etc), breather (is this a good one?), threaded plug (where to buy?), and the pully puller (can i rent one of these from pep boys or something?).


also, should the plugs be gapped at .035 or .060?? people on ftv6.com are saying .060 but ive always heard .035

[ February 06, 2006, 01:52 PM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[NCState98]

Make sure you get a higher pressure fuel gauge. The one you linked is 0-15 PSI for a carbed car.

Also, I've always seen .035 on the colder NGK-TR6. Thats what I'm running.

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by dmw319:

also, should the plugs be gapped at .035 or .060?? people on ftv6.com are saying .060 but ive always heard .035

.035 = boosted car .060 = stock car

[1DangerousV6]

^ yup..even the instructions that come with rksport's supercharger say to re-gap the plugs at .035 ..however..you should never gap a plug at .035 that wasnt designed to be used this way..also..a rule of thumb is to drop one heat range for every 50 hp added..this is why you want to go with the TR6 plugs..they are designed for a .035 gap and are two heat ranges colder (604 instead of the stock 606)

[dmw319]

what pressure fuel gauge should i get.. 0-100? thanks

[chets bird]

your on my s*** LIST!!!

[dmw319]

lol.

question: is it ok to put on the tr6 plugs gapped a .035 when the supercharger isnt on yet??

another question: how/where do you cut the discharge tube and whatnot? anyone have any pics? thanks

question: can i find a way to rig up my k/n fipk for my s/c? pics are in my sig..

one more question: what is the importance of a fuel pressure gauge? how bad is it that i need one, and once i get it installed, how do i check on it and see whtas good or bad? thanks


update: bought the plugs, valve breather, and pillar today. tomorrow i buy the s/c. and friday i buy the gauges.

[ February 07, 2006, 01:01 AM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[1DangerousV6]

1) yes..running TR6 plugs on an NA car wont hurt anything

2) cut the mid section out of the discharge tube..leaving one metal end to attach to the blower..and the other metal end to your TB so you can hook up a BOV etc..then use the silicone tube as the new mid section with hose clamps

3) yes..i did this with my functional ram air hood..i used flexible hosing to go from the back of the air box to the intake on the blower..check out Mighty Thor's pics..he does basically the same thing

4) fuel pressure gauge is important to make sure your FMU and fuel system are working correctly..it should be a certain pressure under full boost..i forget where exactly..probably around 70 - 75 psi

[dmw319]

update! i bought everything today. supercharger, pillar, gauges, valve breather, plugs.


all i need now is the third bracket, and the PCV plug, and the silicone hosing, right?? i need to know every last part ill be needing. EVERYTHING in detail.

will i need to do this?
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/EFPS-Install.htm

and regarding to this..
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/V...onnections.htm
will i need the one way check valve and all that stuff too?

where is a good place to buy this stuff??
GRAYMAN: i need you here come help little dave out. [img]smile.gif[/img] haha if you can make me the third bracket or whatever it is.. with the S bracket or something.. could you do that and i pay you for it or something? thanks

[ February 08, 2006, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[grayman]

Hey, check it out! I go off for a few days to work on the LS1 car and we get ourselves a new team mate.

Howdy Dave.

I just read this whole thread and there were many questions. I will try to get to the most important ones and if you have more questions just repeat them or shoot away. ok?

First, everyone else so far has givin you the straight poop. You can tell the vets from the newbs because the vets back up their comments and don't guess. Be careful with that other forum you mentioned. Another member here tried to get help from them and they are not very knowledgeable about L36 forced induction and they especially don't know much about the 4th gen L36 rksport powerdye. In other words....this is your home for SPECIFIC RKSport powerdyne L36 questions. Use other sources for Forced Induction 'basics.' What I mean is that whoever told you to gap your plugs at .060 for running boost or juice on your L36 DOES NOT and has NEVER had a boosted or juiced motor. Period I am sure he also skipped over the 'colder heat range' plug topic as well.

Ok, where were we....?
You may not need to make a 3rd blower bracket. The kit is supposed to come with one. The problem is people get the istructions and can't figure out where it goes and then throw it away. Yes, the spend $4000 for a new kit and then start throwing parts of it away. So...you may not need to make one. There are THREE mounting point points for the blower unit mounting plate. Just look at the pics on my site when yuo get your kit. It is the obvious 'S' shaped bracket.

As for fuel pressure gauge....
The F/P guage is your MOST IMPORTANT gauge no that you are going forced induction. Our fuel system can handle 6 psi of boost when the FMU is working properly. You need to know that your FMU is working appropriatly while under boost. if not....BOOM. (if you were building a totaly custom setup or custom turbo setup then a full wide band sensor and wide band gauge might be most important but you are installing a 'proven kit' so you do not need to custom tune the Air Fuel ratio.

Get a 0-100 psi ELECTRONIC fuel pressure gauge along with it's appropriate fuel pressure sender. I use norskog and it is perfect. I recomendto stay away from autometer fuel gauges. I have a mechanical autometer boost gauge that works fine but the autometer fuel pressure gauges seem to fail early or not work at all.

(yes....i am too cheap to buy a full wideband rig and i wanted to show off a full tripple pillar gauge set up with lots of blinking lights...that is why i got the narrow band....a moment of weaknes I admit. Passengers love the light show, though. And then a let the car roll at about 20 mph and drop the hammer. Wa...WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
gets em every time. [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img]

I am not trying to be rude nor boastful in what i am about to say....but, this would be a good time to go back and read all my powerdyne pages and related pages again. I would rather have you do that then sit here and type it all out.... [img]smile.gif[/img]

I did not invent all that stuff. for 95% of it I am just an archiver of this forums knowledge on the rksport v6 fbody kit.

Don't try and install everything in one day. You can put the TR6 plugs in right now and you can install the FMU ahead of time as well as the gauges. You need to prep the car for the John_d power wrap. this is not an option. there is no way out of it but to spend some grunt time filing away the oil filter mounting elbow in order to fit the improved belt route.

By a pulley puller for 15 to 20 bucks rather than rent one. You have a super charger now. it is a tool you will need.

As for adapting the discharge tubing....read my pages on it again and you will see that 'dangerous' know what he is talking about. I just did not cut my rksport pipes but rather rounded up all new piping and silicone hoses and coupler on ebay. the idea of cuting the rksport tubing whill becoume obvioius the first time you do a test fit with the blower mounted on the car. bu cutting it you can 'spin' and 'bend' the two sections while they are clammped back together with a 3" high temp silicone coupler and two silicone hose t bolt clamps.

EBAY is your silicone coupler shopping mart. go to the turbo and turbo parts section of ebay and do a search for silicone and silioone elbow and silicone coupler. you want 'reinforced high temperature' silicone hose couplers/elbows, etc.


wow, that was a long reply.

Good luck. read up on my site again and keep doing searches here and study up on differenct aspects of forced induction in general. take your time with every step. don't try to save a couple bucks or save time by skipping over important things.

for instance...have you ordered a throttle body gasket from your local GM dealer yet? make sure and get the gasket for a 2000+ v6. It is a different gasket than the earlier angled TB cars. get a 3/8 threaded plug and it's corresponding tap as well.

Also remind the person selling you the kit to give you the angled oil pressure sender adapter......

[ February 08, 2006, 05:03 AM: Message edited by: grayman ]