adapting a powerdyne to a 98+

[dmw319]

ok. here is a pic of my intake, sorry its not the best: http://www.dmwacoustics.com/misc/intake.JPG

im hoping i can use the stock "accordian" coupler thing for the stock lid and then connect that to the oval side of my k/n filter.. then the other side goes to the tubing.. you think itd work? also, where can i find tubing besides the powerdyne 3.5" stuff? i just need like a little piece. 99v6camaro said the stuff he got looked like heavy duty drier hose. would this work? http://heating-and-cooling.hardwares...se-654038.aspx or would it just get messed up cuz of the temperatures inside the engine bay? haha. what temperature range should it be good up to? im gunna check out lowes tomorrow.

heres a pic of his setup:
(i need a piece like that.. the one coming out of his intake lid)
http://midnight-maro.freestarthost.com/Maro%20055.jpg

im pretty much doing that.


THIS is the piece i need, that tube on the left:
http://rksport.com/image?product_id=01093801&size=full

[ February 10, 2006, 01:12 AM: Message edited by: dmw319 ]

[grayman]

for the main intake flex tubing i would stick with using the powerdyne flex hose. it is heavy duty and built for conditions like the engine bay. the lining is rather thick. it is strong stuff. it seems kinda expensive, and it is most likely overpriced, but they are the only place i have scene it and if you use cheap flimsy tubing then it might rip. I don't look inside my engine bay everyday. i don't want to. i like reliability.

Good idea on trying to use the stock air lid accordian coupler. It might be a perfec fit.

Small sections of 3" pvc pipe and/or 3" pvc coupler work great for mating up with the 3.5" powerdyne hose.

as for using other 'drier ducting' type hoses...the powerdyne flex hose is 3.5". As i just mentioned you know black 3" pcv pipe can be used as ridgid couplers for it. You will have to find something else for ridgid couplers if you use 3" flex hose. thin walled 3" exhaust tubing might work.

That drier ducting link was $13 for 50 feet. I don't think that is what you want. I know whenever I even 'look' at the back of my drier the ducting breaks.

[dmw319]

alright, so besides the powerdyne stuff. no other suggestions??

also, the accordian coupler, is it oval on one side and round on the other?

[grayman]

HEY!
Try flipping that ovay K and N coupler over 180 degrees when you finish your intake rig and see how much clearnce you have. :cool:

Does that oval filter 'slide' around if it in not connected to the throttle body? If so...you are in business, man. Get your intake rig fitted up and in place the then flip the k and n coupler over 180degrees so that it slants to the left instead of the right and then slide it further to the left out of the way of the discharge/throttle body connection. (if need be.)

It looks like that k and N coupler has an outside diameter of 3.5" because I see a small coupler over it and the TB in your pic. If so then 3.5" powerdyne hose should fit right over it without the need of any more couplers.

[dmw319]

no, it doesnt turn, but if i bend the metal bracket it is attached to at the front of the filter, it will work just fine.. and thats my idea. http://www.chaoscarclub.com/images/dave1.jpg you can kind of see it in that small picture.. haah. i just have to see if itll work. cuz the backside of the filter where you cant see.. is an oval. idk if thatll connect up good to the 3.5" round powerdyne stuff...

but yea thatd be good. i just need some powerdyne tubing by this friday. im gunna call tomorrow morning and see if thats possible. if not ill look around lowes for something lol.

[grayman]

As for making sure that oval filter stays put once it is no longer connected to a fixed item like the Throttle body you can poke a couple of holes in on either side of that filters base plate and weave a large plastic cable tie through the holes in the base plate and around the filter. Bam! no more jiggly filter.


this is fun.

[dmw319]

does this look like it has the sender and everything?


this is a pic of the elec. fuel gauge and the parts it came with. what else do i need to hook this along with the FMU?
www.dmwacoustics.com/misc/gauge.jpg

[dmw319]

another question, do i only need 1 ft. of powerdyne 3.5" tubing if i do it this way? or should i buy 2 ft just to be safe??

[grayman]

it still looks to me like the whole filter and oval connector can be flipped around.

that connector neck might be too long though. yep, keep the accordian coupler in your back pocket.

why do you need things by this friday?


dont rush it. The supercharger will be on your car for years. What is a few days to get things done right?

It will take some time to file down the oil filter elbow for the john d wrap. plus you have gauges, fmu, plugs, TB PCV bypass, among other things.

You still need the ASP racing grooved pulley. You can't change the pulley while the blower is on the car.

You are not going to skip steps on us, are you?

I hope not.

silicone dressing for the PCV plug and TB gasket need to cure over night.

I hope you are not gonna try to slap the blower on the car real quick and head off to the track for the first 'test and tune' of the year.

If so i also have a webpage dedicated to 'how to repair F body hood when the dipstick shoots through it" and also a link to buy used warrentied engines.

[img]tongue.gif[/img]

[grayman]

Originally posted by dmw319:
does this look like it has the sender and everything?


this is a pic of the elec. fuel gauge and the parts it came with. what else do i need to hook this along with the FMU?
www.dmwacoustics.com/misc/gauge.jpg

Um, I hope that is an electronic gauge but with a mechanical 'clock face style" rather than a true mechanical gauge. i think that is the sender in the middle right of the photo. I am not sure what is in the packet in the lower right.

unortunatly all sender seem to use NPT fitting threads but the fuel rail uses AN fitting threads. Just decide which of the two basic connection styles you prefer. They are both in the stickies and also on my site.

[grayman]

Originally posted by dmw319:
another question, do i only need 1 ft. of powerdyne 3.5" tubing if i do it this way? or should i buy 2 ft just to be safe??

I would get two feet. I only trimmed a couple of inches off of my two foot section. With the bending it will be well over 1 foot no matter how you rig it..i am sure of that.

[grayman]

I am off to finish the rotor swap on the TA. Catch ya later.

[GreenGlow3]

wow lots of good knowledge here....Good JOB grayman

[grayman]

Yo GreenGlow,
Sup?

[dmw319]

yea, i gotta wait it out for the pully. but i was gunna start my install friday.. looks like it might get pushed back a few more days. what installs CAN i do before that though?

im not skipping steps, no worries [img]smile.gif[/img]