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those stupid tensioners for our powerdyne blowers are so annoying. youre belt has to be really tight before you even start worrying about the dumb tensioner to be even tighter on it. and even then, there is no good way to tigthen it down even using like 2 people. there needs to be some better way to do this. i was only running like half the boost i was supposed to today it was just a pain in the neck.
This is the way I use to do mine. tighten the nut down but not all the way just enough to let it not move on it's own. Then take an open ended wrench (I think I use 3/4")big enough to put on the little spacer for the pulley. Then just take a hammer and tap it down a little, then tighten it a little more so it doesn't come back up( not all the way tight) then hammer it down a little more until you think you have your desired tightness. Then tighten it all the way down. Remember you want a little play in the belt, I kept mine about a 1/2 inch of play. If you tightrn it too much, you will know by either the belt coming off or it making werid noises. Good luck
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
it's pretty much the only and best way to do it if you want it tight though.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Yeah, I've been trying to figure out a better way as well since I'm building my kit from scratch but I've yet to see a better way.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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