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  • Found the problem with my powerdyne









    My bearings are starting to go and allowing lateral movement of the impeller into the casing. It will cost an extra 45 bucks on top of whatever the rebuild does.

    http://www.928motorsports.com/servic...surfacing.html
    2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

  • #2
    Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

    Ouch, sorry to hear that.

    1998 Firebird . 1989 Firebird XS . 1986 Fiero GT

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    • #3
      Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

      Yeah. I'm just trying to decide on which rebuild to do. Any idea how much the shimming and venting really does? I'm not sure it's worth doing this time since I plan on sending it in for the new impeller and impeller shaft next year anyway. I'd like to talk to Carl at 928 about it but unfortunately he is out at an event at Pikes Peak until the end of the month. I think I'm gonna send it in and put a note with the blower that he needs to call me when he gets a chance so I can decide which rebuild and all to do.
      2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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      • #4
        Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

        You can shim the impellar out youself, all they do is put a washer with 2 flat shims too shim your impellar out, all you would have to do is smooth out the blower side where you old impellar grinded it up, you can also order the ceramic bearing yourself, and the gt belt you can also order that too, it is not much better, if at all than the belt they sell on ebay. you can order a new impellar from superchargerrebuilds.com. Their good for ordering parts. When you send your powerdyne to 928 they don't have parts for the powerdyne just the upgrades. When I had mine sent to them the said my input impellar shaft was nicked up but they would try and do the best they could with it. Since they didn't have powerdyne parts they did the racing rebuild with the venting & shimming and ceramic bearing and gt belt(which is just a kevlar belt nothing special.) Since when I first ran it the belt snapped off causing the the powerdyne pulley to freeze up. Which caused my driveshaft belt to burn and snap and wrap around my oil filter and made it come loose which I lost almost all my oil. Took it apart found that the gt belt had either slipped off the impellar shaft or broke.(This was with a 2.6" pulley). Called 928 they sent me 2 more belts. Both just kevlar like the gt belt, put it back together snapped about 150 miles. So I then decided to put a $200 input shaft impellar in it and it worked perfect after that. So I was pissed at 928 for not even offering to replace the input shaft since they knew it was nicked up. I offered to pay for the part and install they just said they don't carry parts for powerdyne. So to sum it up I think the venting is worthless , you can do it yourself if you wanted, along with the shiming and ceramic bearings. I think I posted the part #'s for them on previous posts about 928. After taking mine apart all the time and seeing what the $980 I paid for plus 200 for the input shaft I was pissed. since you have it apart just smooth out nicks on the housing, get a I think 1/8" think washer to go on the back side of the impellar shaft just after the bearing, but there are 2 flat, like heat washers one before the shim one after, buy a new impellar from supercharrebuilds.com, buy the bearing and you just saved yourself 500-600 dollars.So thats my experience and view of 928.
        08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
        96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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        • #5
          Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

          I'm thinking rebuilding it myself is sounding better and better. So basically I would order the ceramic bering and kevlar belt kit from 928 (or if you know of a better place please let me know), have a machine shop press on the bearing and possibly do the shimming (if you think it would be worth it), smooth out the casing (I'm guessing I should just work my way down in sand paper), buy a new impeller (have the machine shop probably put that on as well). How would I know if there is a problem with the impeller shaft BTW? And do I have to break it in for while then run the crap out of it? Thanks for the help thus far.

          *EDIT*
          I didn't see the impeller or impeller shaft on www.superchargerrebuilds.com , do I have to call them for those parts?
          Last edited by T-Punk; 07-16-2007, 09:45 PM.
          2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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          • #6
            Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

            geez, that is some crazy damage, good luck with the rebuild, if you can rebuild it yourself that would definitely save you some good coin
            http://www.bowtiev6.com/

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            • #7
              Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

              Now that I think about it I know I can do the rebuild myself. I forgot one of my buddies has access to a shop press... should have used him for my Moog bushings in my LCA's. I might consider the 928 upgraded impeller as well if it will work with my stock impeller shaft. I'll start with the resurfacing of the housing tomorrow. Luckily I'm not in a real rush since I converted my car back to NA.
              2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                Search some of my old posts or I'll look later for the maf. for the ceramic bearings, I think they were around $200 (not sure), theres a write up on how to rebuild the powerdyne somewhere. the input bearing you can tap out/in with a socket, the output bearing you can drill a hole and tap out from the back side then tap the new one in and use high temp silicone to fill the hole. The write up will show you how.The belts are all the same , as long as they are kevlar, so say gt some don't ebay has the best price on belts I think $50 shipped. But ya I would just do it yourself. Learn from my mistake. Good Luck, if you have questions let me know , I think I took mine apart around 7-8 times. Also when doing the housing don't worry if you take too much off you can shim the impellar however far up you want with different washers, that what 928 does to theirs.
                08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
                96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                  Yeah, the rebuild is not too bad. Only the two bearings behind the casing is difficult to pull out. I'm not confident on it. A machine shop can probably do it.

                  Also I remember using a 2000 grit sand paper to to smooth it out. That material is very soft and it gouges very easily by the impeller. I live in a semi-desert place and a little sand got in my SC and it gouged really good.

                  Also if you're going to rebuild you might as well do it right. Buy the super impeller that 928 sells for $495. It's suppose to bring the cfm to over 1200. They also sell a good shaft.

                  For the bearings. Steve, SSM5411, gave me numbers to those racing bearings that's suppose to be the best around. Meaning it can tolerate heat better than any bearings out there.

                  Part # for small bearings 6202-2RSLTN9/HC5C3WT $70.00
                  Part # for big bearings 6205-2RSLTN9/HC5C3WT $118.00

                  BDI Bearing company sells them (google their phone number)
                  or buy them from 928, I think for the same price.

                  1998 Firebird . 1989 Firebird XS . 1986 Fiero GT

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                    Originally posted by Mighty Thor
                    Yeah, the rebuild is not too bad. Only the two bearings behind the casing is difficult to pull out. I'm not confident on it. A machine shop can probably do it.

                    Also I remember using a 2000 grit sand paper to to smooth it out. That material is very soft and it gouges very easily by the impeller. I live in a semi-desert place and a little sand got in my SC and it gouged really good.

                    Also if you're going to rebuild you might as well do it right. Buy the super impeller that 928 sells for $495. It's suppose to bring the cfm to over 1200. They also sell a good shaft.

                    For the bearings. Steve, SSM5411, gave me numbers to those racing bearings that's suppose to be the best around. Meaning it can tolerate heat better than any bearings out there.

                    Part # for small bearings 6202-2RSLTN9/HC5C3WT $70.00
                    Part # for big bearings 6205-2RSLTN9/HC5C3WT $118.00

                    BDI Bearing company sells them (google their phone number)
                    or buy them from 928, I think for the same price.
                    Good find Thor, I knew they were somewhere, TPUnk the only advice I can give you is mark the housing from where you took it off since you can rotate the housing to any position when putting it back together. Also when putting it back together spin the pulley or input shaft when tightening down the housing. Do this with the cover on the pulley side on first because you will have play on the shaft side so you will think it is hitting the housing again. With the cover on the pulley side it holds the shaft in place so when you turn the pulley it will be correct on the blower side. Also make sure you put the belt retainer back on below the input bearing , in keeps the belt from slipping off. Another tip if you have it all apart, run the input shaft in after putting the bearing in and then slip on the belt, trust me it's alot easier to get the belt on this way. Then put the cover on the pulley side and put your pulley on. Then put on your spacer and washers on the blower side depending on(however much you grinded out the housing). Then put the impellar back on. then the cover. With the cover on tighten down the bolts evenly, make sure you rotate the pulley to see if it starts to hit the housing. If it starts to hit the housing right away you need to take the impellar back off and use a smaller spacer or you can grind more off the housing. Its up to you. 928's spacer to shim the impellar up wasn't more than 1/8" spacer at the most , just to give you an idea also they had little metal flat washers before and after the spacer(I think they kept heat off the spacer) they were like paper thin washers(really dicolored so thats why I think they were used for heat disapation). But thats the best way to make sure your impellar won't hit the housing. Once you do it 7-8 times you get the hang of it. I hope you don't have to though. good luck
                    08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
                    96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                      I already marked the housing, I noticed that before I took it apart (thank god). Great info guys. I really apreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes and what I end up doing.
                      2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                        Good news. JustAnotherV6 (the one I bought it from) is going to give me enough money for the parts for the rebuild. It's nice to see that we have some pretty stand up guys in the V6 community. I thought you were a good guy, that's why I didn't come on here and bash you ;) . Thanks a lot bud, I really appreciate it.
                        2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                          On a side not the 928 upgraded impeller is only for clockwise rotation and I'm pretty sure we have counterclockwise (not sure, this is just off the top of my head). So I think we are getting screwed again :( . I'm gonna spend the extra money for the ceramic bearings I think and have the local shop install them. I'm going to attempt to clean up the housing and see what the local shop thinks about trying to fix the impeller but will probobly buy a new one if I can get one.

                          *EDIT*
                          Ignore that about the 928 impeller. It will work just fine. I forgot we flipped the powerdyne around and run on the back of the pulley so it is actually running clockwise (also powerdyne doesn't even sell a reverse rotation BD-11A). Pardon my brief retardation.
                          Last edited by T-Punk; 07-19-2007, 12:00 AM.
                          2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                            Progress report time :D . Well I started to work on sanding down the housing and I've got to the point where I'll call it done. I'm now working on the impeller. here are some pics to show how it is coming along.

                            With the flash to show the crosshatch.


                            This one is without the flash.


                            My slow work of smoothing down the damaged area. I'm gonna have the shop check the balancing of the impeller
                            after I'm done but I don't see the minor weight I'm removing really becoming a problem.
                            Last edited by T-Punk; 07-19-2007, 10:57 AM.
                            2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Found the problem with my powerdyne

                              The massive amount of work I have left.


                              If you look off to the right in this pic you will see some very small black marks that I could not get out but I don't see them giving me any issues.


                              All the work is being done with 220 grit sand paper by hand so its slow going but it keeps the risk down of hurthing anything.
                              2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

                              Comment

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