Just installed my PD and it's making a grinding noise at idle only. Has any one else had this problem? Thanks
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Powerdyne noise
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Re: Powerdyne noise
some of our powerdyne cars have a somewhat lunky sound while idling because the spring loaded belt tensioner has been removed and replaced with the rksport fixed tensioner. basicaly, suggest using a stethoscope to find the noise with the hood up. (long hollow tube usually works).
also, if the blower unit has a bad bearing issue it will keep making more noise with rpms. most people know for sure when they have bad bearings in the blower but i understand that the instal is recent so maybe you just are not used to the new idle.
if the belt is WAY too tight then any number of accessories could be making noise. the reverse is also true. if the belt has WAY too much slack then that will cuase issues with accessories making strange noises.
if somebody bottomed out the external blower pulley or the rksport tensioner pulley then one of those pulleys could be rubbing on the shell or tensioner bracket.
do you have all three brackets installed on the powerdyne blower? you should have two longish straight bolts/threaded rods on the driver side of the blower going through the blower mounting plate and into the block and a third "S" shapped bracket on the upper passenger side of the blower mounting plate. if you are missing one of those attachment points for the blower then it will wobble.
is the oil pressure sender and its new 45degree elbow pointed in a safe direction and out of harms way?
is the blower plate resting on the oil filter?
is the blower pulley and tensioner pulley all lined up straight with the rest of the accessories?
what happens when you turn the A/C on while the car is in idle? how about the heater?
thats about all i can think of for now. i hope you dont end up with the race rebuild blues. hope everything works out. gl. gLast edited by grayman; 07-30-2008, 04:30 AM.
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by grayman View Postsome of our powerdyne cars have a somewhat lunky sound while idling because the spring loaded belt tensioner has been removed and replaced with the rksport fixed tensioner. basicaly, suggest using a stethoscope to find the noise with the hood up. (long hollow tube usually works).
also, if the blower unit has a bad bearing issue it will keep making more noise with rpms. most people know for sure when they have bad bearings in the blower but i understand that the instal is recent so maybe you just are not used to the new idle.
if the belt is WAY too tight then any number of accessories could be making noise. the reverse is also true. if the belt has WAY too much slack then that will cuase issues with accessories making strange noises.
if somebody bottomed out the external blower pulley or the rksport tensioner pulley then one of those pulleys could be rubbing on the shell or tensioner bracket.
do you have all three brackets installed on the powerdyne blower? you should have two longish straight bolts/threaded rods on the driver side of the blower going through the blower mounting plate and into the block and a third "S" shapped bracket on the upper passenger side of the blower mounting plate. if you are missing one of those attachment points for the blower then it will wobble.
is the oil pressure sender and its new 45degree elbow pointed in a safe direction and out of harms way?
is the blower plate resting on the oil filter?
is the blower pulley and tensioner pulley all lined up straight with the rest of the accessories?
what happens when you turn the A/C on while the car is in idle? how about the heater?
thats about all i can think of for now. i hope you dont end up with the race rebuild blues. hope everything works out. gl. g
It does have a funny idle now. I'll try the tube today.
I wouldn't say the belt is way loose, but it's not at full tension yet.
I do have all three brackets.
Not hitting the oil filter.
sender is pointing to the driver side.
Blower pulley lines up and the tensioner pulley isn't prefect, but it's the best I could get it without the belt tring to ride off.
A/C speeds it up. I didn't hear any change with the heater on.
Thanks
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Re: Powerdyne noise
well, until we know more then my first guess is not the powerdyne bearings but most likely you are not used to the new clunky idle sounds from your new forced induction system. on my car i have a lunky/noisier than stock idle. if i idle with the A/C on it is usualy more pronounced. if i raise the rpm all the clunky sounds go away. when i say clunky idle i mean things like little squeaky sounds, etc,. and it sound like you have a less than perfect car while sitting at a light or waiting on a drive thrue. if i put the car in nuetral it eases the situation. granted, this has never been THAT terrible. not like a dodge 440 with a water pump pulley 3 minutes from breaking lose. :-)
I did forget to ask you to compare idle in neutral to idle in D.
request: please put your model year/tranny and mods in your sig atleast until your car gets dialed in so the vets around here can have more to go on when diagnosing or giving advice.
how tight is the belt at the moment? i get the feeling you have researched the powerdyne serpenitine belt 'twist test.' on my car ATM, when twisting the belt down near the throttle body i have to twist pretty hard to get the belt to twist 90 degrees and i cant twist it a full 180 degrees. if i cant twist the belt apprx. 90 degrees when i get done adjusting the tensioner then i back off a little bit. too tight is not good either.
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by grayman View Postwell, until we know more then my first guess is not the powerdyne bearings but most likely you are not used to the new clunky idle sounds from your new forced induction system. on my car i have a lunky/noisier than stock idle. if i idle with the A/C on it is usualy more pronounced. if i raise the rpm all the clunky sounds go away. when i say clunky idle i mean things like little squeaky sounds, etc,. and it sound like you have a less than perfect car while sitting at a light or waiting on a drive thrue. if i put the car in nuetral it eases the situation. granted, this has never been THAT terrible. not like a dodge 440 with a water pump pulley 3 minutes from breaking lose. :-)
I did forget to ask you to compare idle in neutral to idle in D.
request: please put your model year/tranny and mods in your sig atleast until your car gets dialed in so the vets around here can have more to go on when diagnosing or giving advice.
how tight is the belt at the moment? i get the feeling you have researched the powerdyne serpenitine belt 'twist test.' on my car ATM, when twisting the belt down near the throttle body i have to twist pretty hard to get the belt to twist 90 degrees and i cant twist it a full 180 degrees. if i cant twist the belt apprx. 90 degrees when i get done adjusting the tensioner then i back off a little bit. too tight is not good either.
Idle in neutral is pretty much the same as park and it does get louder in drive.
I can turn my belt right now a little over 90. I was making sure everything was fine at 6lbs before I tighten the belt the rest of the way.
I tried to make a sig, but I didn't see it in the user cp. Do I have to be a supporting member? If you need to know anything right now my fquick has everything about my car. Thanks
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Re: Powerdyne noise
I think that is my old powerdyne unit, with the racing rebuild, venting and shimming. I noticed the bracket itself where I cut it so it didn't hit the hard line for the A/C lines. Are you running the 2.8 grooved pulley? Is your car tuned for the supercherger and the 2.8 pulley? The racing rebuild(ceramic bearings) and shimming made my car louder at idle and while crusing when I had it. If you have Hptuners turn up the idle rpm to around 900-925rpms might help some. Good to see pictures of the beast again.08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by ssms5411 View PostI think that is my old powerdyne unit, with the racing rebuild, venting and shimming. I noticed the bracket itself where I cut it so it didn't hit the hard line for the A/C lines. Are you running the 2.8 grooved pulley? Is your car tuned for the supercherger and the 2.8 pulley? The racing rebuild(ceramic bearings) and shimming made my car louder at idle and while crusing when I had it. If you have Hptuners turn up the idle rpm to around 900-925rpms might help some. Good to see pictures of the beast again.
It is a beast. with the belt a little loose it hits a good 7psi. :rock:
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Re: Powerdyne noise
I was running a 2.6" grooved pulley with 36lb injectors and would hit around 11psi and bleed down to 8-9 psi,I also ran a blower cam so it took a couple of psi from me. I even tried a 2.25" grooved pulley but it was to small and slipped alot. Make sure your not seeing any KR with that set up, it will kill your car quick.08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by ssms5411 View PostI was running a 2.6" grooved pulley with 36lb injectors and would hit around 11psi and bleed down to 8-9 psi,I also ran a blower cam so it took a couple of psi from me. I even tried a 2.25" grooved pulley but it was to small and slipped alot. Make sure your not seeing any KR with that set up, it will kill your car quick.
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by johns00c View PostI might try a 2.6 later on down the road. What's the serect for keeping the intake hoses on? mine keep blowing off at just 7psi. I'll try to keep the boost low and not add anymore parts untill I get hpt to check for KR.
intake is pre blower and discharge is post blower.
where exactly is the tubing coming apart at? from the your pics im gonna guess the flanged throttle body. the pipe flange does not look like it is seated on the TB straight. if it is coming apart there then try to adjust the different sections and connections in the discharge system so that the 90 elbow that connects to the TB is seated straight on.
I dont use that flanged elbow in my system but from your pics it just looks likes its barely on the TB.
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Re: Powerdyne noise
check out the link. it might give you some ideas for the discharge tubing. my ugly industrial flex hose system never comes off. i made a prettier 3" discharge system which did not use the industrial flex hose and that worked fine as well but with street testing the 2.5" system seems to hit harder. it might be that the 2.5" system maintains a higher velocity. the key for me has been ditching the rksport flanged throttle body elbow and using a full sized silicone elbow, trimmed to the angle of seat on the TB. I also use a standard worm drive hose clamp on the TB connection becuase it fits right down in the slot on the TB port created by the back on the TB port and those little raised nubs. t-bolt hose clamps that i have use a metal band that is to wide to fit down between the tb nubs and the rear flashing of the TB port.
http://home.comcast.net/~grayman99/P...rge-tubing.htm
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Re: Powerdyne noise
Originally posted by grayman View Postim thinking you mean the discharge tube system is coming apart somewhere?
intake is pre blower and discharge is post blower.
where exactly is the tubing coming apart at? from the your pics im gonna guess the flanged throttle body. the pipe flange does not look like it is seated on the TB straight. if it is coming apart there then try to adjust the different sections and connections in the discharge system so that the 90 elbow that connects to the TB is seated straight on.
I dont use that flanged elbow in my system but from your pics it just looks likes its barely on the TB.
The TB and discharge isn't that straight,but they are on pretty good. I had to chop a couple of inches out of the middle to get it to work on my car. That silicone elbow would give me some room on the discharge pipe. I have to take the rad. support off to get the discharge off my TB.
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Re: Powerdyne noise
i remember now. it's been a few years since.
it looks like you have the kit from a 95-98 car. that TB flange piece is different for the 99-2002 kits and it has to come up over the radiator with the airbox lid removed. It also requires using the rksport cone filter as well. My kit was originaly a 95-98 kit so i never even tried to get that flanged elbow on our straight TB. I just rounded up affordable priced elbows and couplers and some short sections of AL tubing and a 3.5" reducing silicone elbow and rigid up the custom discharge tubing from day one.
for the intake i was able to keep the stock airbox but it looks like your fipk will work fine as well.
it might be kinda hard to find a 3" to 3.5" silicone elbow but i know ebay has them. prices very.
tip: if any of your metal tube pieces lack a raised flange, a bead of jbweld or similar epoxy can be laid down and sanded/formed to give a good flange for the silicone couplers to bite against.
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