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I was getting a bad knock at all speeds. I installed a new knock sensor on the drivers side and my car ran great. After a few days the knock came back a little. I installed the pass side KS and was shocked to have coolant pour out onto me. This did not happen on the drivers side. Also my knock did not go away with the new sensor after a 7 mile drive (and coolant top-off).
So how does the knock sensor actually work? Why did the coolant pour out the pass side but not the drivers. Could it be clogged?
Anyone? I just need to know if coolant leaked out of both sensor holes.
The knock sensors screw into the block drain holes. If no coolant came out of one, it just means that hole has sediment clogging it. I small screwdriver will go right through the sediment and cause it to leak if you want.
The knock sensor picks up sound waves caused by the pre ignition and starts pulling timing until it stops. Once it stops seeing the knock, It starts to add the timing back in. You may want to go with a colder spark plug or cooler thermostat. Both should help. When tuning my car, I couldn't add anything to the WOT timing until I went with a 160 stat.
I hear and feel it more under heavier load and WOT while in the higher gears (3-4). before I swapped them out it was knocking at every speed, every gear and every RPM. Now, in first gear there really isn't any knock but the top end feels sluggish. After I put in the second KS I filled back up with 87oct and reset the PCM. I'm down to 1/8 of a tank now so I'm going to go back to 91oct and see what happens. Any other suggestions beside the thermo? My engine has been running very cool lately and the knock happens even before my engine heats up beyond 170*.
Could it be the fuel pump or some kind of lack of pressure in the lines?
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