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Re: A quick question to those with Modified cars -
8ish psi. When I replace my o2 sensors which I believe are causing me problems, i'll install a boost controller as well. I'm gonna push it up to 11psi.
8ish psi. When I replace my o2 sensors which I believe are causing me problems, i'll install a boost controller as well. I'm gonna push it up to 11psi.
Impressive... I think I'm leaning to an engine swap, if I ever come up with that much extra cash... But I think by the time I have the extra, I'll be saving for a Corvette, so it doesn't much matter...
Hmm... Still a worthwhile investment though?
I'd hate to drop 120 on the ds when it could be better spent somewhere else...
I've already done intake/exhaust. I could redo my exhaust, but it'd get spendy pretty quick... So I started looking into drivetrain and suspension upgrades.
look for a deal, i bought my aluminum driveshaft for $40 shipped to my house
LS1's have the steel? I thought that they all came with the aluminum?
I know the LT1's had a steel driveshaft, unsure whether it was one- or two-piece, as my roommate last year had a 95 Formula.
im pretty sure only the 93+ 5 speeds had the two piece, all v8's got a steel or aluminum one piece driveshaft
I would look for a deal... But I'm also very impatient! :p
If I can get the part a few months earlier, but pay a higher premium... I probably will.
if you want my opinion, i would stick with the stock driveshaft unless there is something wrong with it, or you are upgrading your car for more power.
the only reason i got an aluminum one was because i thought my carrier bearing was going bad, and my u joints were making a clunking noise. If i didnt find that driveshaft (it was $20, with $20 shipping) i would have just replaced the u joints. Its not worth the money for such an insignificant gain if you are not doing any power adding mods
if you want my opinion, i would stick with the stock driveshaft unless there is something wrong with it, or you are upgrading your car for more power.
the only reason i got an aluminum one was because i thought my carrier bearing was going bad, and my u joints were making a clunking noise. If i didnt find that driveshaft (it was $20, with $20 shipping) i would have just replaced the u joints. Its not worth the money for such an insignificant gain if you are not doing any power adding mods
So in other words, everyone wants one and gets one simply because it's "the thing to do" not necessarily because they need it?
Wouldn't you put more power to the ground regardless, swapping the steel for aluminum?
From my engineering physics courses, all the potential energy (PE) stored in the gasoline is converted into kinetic energy (KE) during the combustion inside the engine. That energy is then spread throughout the system (engine components moving, transmission, driveshaft, differential, axles, wheels, etc.) Now, the KE of a moving part has two components, translational KE and rotational KE. If you lower the mass of one of the moving components, it "absorbs" less KE, as both the translational and rotational KE is based off of the speed of the object (or rotational speed, for rotational KE) and its mass. If you lower the KE absorbed by one component, would you then have to conclude that more KE is passed through that component and ultimately to the ground?
I've seen a lot of threads where the next suggested mod was the aluminum ds, and I just don't know if that's just a "might as well, in case you add a lot of power" or just... unnecessary.
So in other words, everyone wants one and gets one simply because it's "the thing to do" not necessarily because they need it?
Wouldn't you put more power to the ground regardless, swapping the steel for aluminum?
I've seen a lot of threads where the next suggested mod was the aluminum ds, and I just don't know if that's just a "might as well, in case you add a lot of power" or just... unnecessary.
you will put more power own, yes but it will not be a huge difference
the only difference i noticed with my aluminum DS was it sounded different
im sure it frees up a bunch of rotational weight (i mean, the thing weighs less than 10 pounds) but i didnt notice any difference for acceleration
if you are modding your car, then sure, get the DS, but if you just use your car as a daily driver, it is a pointless mod
Re: A quick question to those with Modified cars -
I've heard from several people that the aluminum drive shaft is a noticeable mod. I haven't done it myself but I def will as soon as I come upon a deal. I just haven't looked.
But as you've said, less rotational mass can have a larger effect on how much power gets to the ground.
As far as price per HP to the wheels is concerned the driveshaft is a great mod. Anything to lose weight is worth doing. I wouldn't have bought and installed my tube K member if it wasn't, since that was a decent amount of work to install that.
I've seen a lot of threads where the next suggested mod was the aluminum ds, and I just don't know if that's just a "might as well, in case you add a lot of power" or just... unnecessary.
it'll reduce parasitic loss in the drivetrain, so you will gain performance, no matter what you do...but the difference will be too small for your butt-dyno to notice. If you're looking for a "zOMG I haev teh POOWWAAAAH!!!!111!!11!!one!!!eleven!!1" sensation, nitrous oxide is more up your route.
it'll reduce parasitic loss in the drivetrain, so you will gain performance, no matter what you do...but the difference will be too small for your butt-dyno to notice. If you're looking for a "zOMG I haev teh POOWWAAAAH!!!!111!!11!!one!!!eleven!!1" sensation, nitrous oxide is more up your route.
Haha, I've thought about nitrous a lot... but I can't see it being feasible. I live in a (relatively) small town... the closest thing to a performance auto shop we have is autozone.
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