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I attempted to change the plugs and wires today. the boots on the wires that connect to the spark plug were like impossibly hard to get out..had to use a crow bar and managed to only get one out. didn't have enough time.
anybody run into this problem? i assumed it was like this because the plugs/wires have never been replaced and there's 85k on the motor, but if im doing something wrong or there's a trick, please help it go smoother for me.
I ususally twist the boot end and pull , and they come off pretty easy, also when you install the new use some of that dilsithic(mispelled I know) grease for the spark plugs and on the coil ends.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
hmmmm..i wonder why mine didn't come right off when i twisted. the wires i bought say they were pre greased but i bought some anyway and some anti-sieze stuff for the threading on the plugs.
I know my wifes old 00' 3.4 Grand Am I broke 3 back plugs off, then bought one of those wire boot pulllers and it work alright , it had 70,000 miles on it. This is when I did a LIM gasket fix on it.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I too, need to change my 81,xxx plugs...can all 6 plugs be reached from above? Is it a simple socket & wrench job or will I need pivoting extensions? Any tips for a 1st timer?
Also, plug and wire suggestions for a mostly stock daily driver?
Twist and pull. The trick is to keep twisting until you feel the rubber pop and break free of the spark plug. Time and heat bakes the plug wire and rubber boot to the spark plug.
Also, having to do this for a pay check, it has seemed to be an undeniable truth that talking dirty to the inanimate object is a very crucial time saver.
I too, need to change my 81,xxx plugs...can all 6 plugs be reached from above? Is it a simple socket & wrench job or will I need pivoting extensions? Any tips for a 1st timer?
Also, plug and wire suggestions for a mostly stock daily driver?
Thanks! :tup:
pivots will help, go to autzone or advanced or w.e. store. Get NGK copper plugs with stock gap. Get some direct replacement wires (ac delco brand or w.e.) and thats good for a DD. No need for fancy plugs.
Well, on the 3.4 you can reach them from the top by removing the EGR and using extensions and swivels, pre 99 3.8's seem to be hard to get all of them from the top, but I think you can, and 99-02 3.8's can all be easily reached from the top. My 00 firebird took me 10 mins to change out and my 93 maro took me a couple days ( 140,xxx miles on stock AC Delco plugs lol).
I too, need to change my 81,xxx plugs...can all 6 plugs be reached from above? Is it a simple socket & wrench job or will I need pivoting extensions? Any tips for a 1st timer?
Also, plug and wire suggestions for a mostly stock daily driver?
Thanks! :tup:
you will need to get some extensions and u joint adapters to take them out easy
if you have the right tools, its a 30-45min job, if you dont, its a 6 hour job
and the readon the boots are so hard to get off is because they are so long, so they have a bit of suction to the plug, i bought a cheap boot remover and it worked well
This site kicks @ss! Thanks for the replies everyone, mucho appreciation. I have the right tools (need to buy plug wire puller though) and hope to do a plug swap on my '99 in an hour or less.
As for the wires, my car runs fine, do I replace them anyways? How about cap and rotor? If yes, what are the recommendations regarding straight boot vs 90 bend? Install tips regarding either?
This site kicks @ss! Thanks for the replies everyone, mucho appreciation. I have the right tools (need to buy plug wire puller though) and hope to do a plug swap on my '99 in an hour or less.
As for the wires, my car runs fine, do I replace them anyways? How about cap and rotor? If yes, what are the recommendations regarding straight boot vs 90 bend? Install tips regarding either?
Big thumbs up to everyone! :tup:
yeah, it sucks the first time, because some plugs you need to get from the top, and others from underneath the car, so make sure you put it on ramps, or jack stands if possible
i didnt put wires on mine, they have almost 150k on them.. they usually last forever and need not be replaced unless they get burnt or something, but if you have the money, i would throw a set on, might as well do it all at once rather than go back and have to pull the wires off again
our cars dont have distributors, they have three coil packs on the drivers side of the engine, you shouldnt have to do anything with them, if the car is running good
i remember reading a good write up on how to change the plugs, i dont remember if it was from here or the other site, but i would do a search here for it, or someone might have it off hand
I know with my RK Sport headers it takes me about 30 mins. to do plugs and wires. I ran 90 degree for years with no problems, and I would suggest them if you have stock mani's. I now run 10.3mm straight boot wires with high heat boot protectors , so no wires get melted. My last MSD 8.5mm straight boot wires I had on for 8 years with boot protectors and had no problems(still have them for back up) , but you can also get the boot protectors for the 90 degree wires so there is no melting, for $30 for boot protectors I think it is worth it. Good luck.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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