Buying first f-body - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Buying first f-body

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Buying first f-body

    My name is Bob McCoy and I am newbie to this forum. I am looking at a 1998 Firebird, V-6, Auto, T-tops, and 102,xxx miles. I haven't seen it in person but the pix on Autotrader.com look really good. (or course). It is green with light tan cloth interior. I was wondering if it drives out OK and I can get off the lot for under 5K, (probably just under), would I be shooting myself in the foot by buying it providing there are no obvious reasons that I see not to buy (besides all the un-obvious reasons there might be).

    The car will be a daily use car, good looking and fun to drive, not a racer or show car and will probably just be well taken care of and maintained.

    Anybody in the Deerfield Beach/Pompano Beach area that would be willing to go look at it for me and not buy it out from under me? I could spiff you an Outback gift certificate or expenses or something for your trouble.

    I also have my eye on a 2002 'bird, V6, Auto, Convertible, Red with Black top and black leather interior, and 83,xxx miles, for about $2000 more up in Vero Beach. I'm sure it is a nicer car but it is a convertible and more of a headache to own $$$$$ plus the more money needed to get into it.

    I am up here in Dothan Alabama where there is never anything neet for sale up here.

    Sorry for all the ranting.
    Thank you very much,
    Bob McCoy
    Last edited by bmccoy94; 10-07-2010, 01:18 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Buying first f-body

    if it were in NC I might be able to help you out. Good luck with finding an fbody though!

    www.kbb.com is usually a good reference point
    Dave:
    00 Supercharged Camaro - RIP
    97 Turbo Camaro - Sold

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Buying first f-body

      Hey Bob,

      Either car sounds like a reasonable deal. The convertibles can be a bit more of a headache. I find that 100k is about where these cars start to need work, but honestly 83K isn't that much newer. You may as well take the $2k you would save and fix up the older car. I would recommend test driving the green car first and see what kind of shape its in. Check all the features of the car and if something isn't working make sure to complain about it and try to get the price down.

      You should make sure the shocks are in good shape. This should be apparent after going over a bump. Good shocks will dampen the bump and then rebound and not have any further bouncing. Slightly worn stock shocks may half a bounce after a rebound. Shocks are going to cost some money to do. For aftermarket shocks with lowering springs figure $900 - $1200 installed. Even when replacing shocks with stock replacement brands from the auto parts store or dealership figure parts cost + $200-400 for labor. Either way it's not going to be a cheap job. So if the shocks are bad, complain, complain and then complain some more and try to get the price down.

      You should also listen for any suspension knocks or pops. Make sure you hit a tight left and tight right hand turn. Most suspension work is not very expensive, but can make the car unsafe to drive until fixed. Check the tires and make sure they have tread left. If you're new to rear wheel drive this is important. If the car has low profile tires (with after market wheels) you HAVE TO use good rubber. Low pros that have no tread left are seriously dangerous in the wet and cold. Low pro tires can also be expensive. An average tire in my size (255/40R17 front 275/40R17 rear) costs $250+.

      As for drive train make sure the trans shifts smoothly. Pop the hood and listen to the motor. The idle should be smooth on a stock car. Listen for knocks/taps/pings that go up and down with the RPM range. The 98's had a throttle cable so you can pull the throttle open manually from under the hood. Look and smell for leaks. Check oil and trans fluid color and smell.

      If you were to buy a car that needs to be fixed you should certainly negotiate a lower price or pass on the car. Though as I said earlier the convertible option may be worse since it's not that much newer. You may end up with a better car if you invest the $2k difference into the older car.

      Hopefully this helps you pick the right car :).
      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Buying first f-body

        I find that 100k is about where these cars start to need work,...[/QUOTE]

        My car is at that stage of its life. What should I be expecting to start failing? What sorts of things will go on them? I would like to replace what I can before it goes and leaves me stranded.

        Thanks.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Buying first f-body

          My car is at that stage of its life. What should I be expecting to start failing? What sorts of things will go on them? I would like to replace what I can before it goes and leaves me stranded.

          Thanks.
          At the end of the day these are cheapo cars. Not an economy car, but still cheap. So basically here is what I've experienced on my car and friends cars:

          - Shocks (if factory) too weak. Not shot yet, but too bouncy.
          - All suspension bushings torn up (a-arms, tie rods, lca, stabilizer bar and such).
          - Alternator and possibly ignition components if car lives outdoors.
          - Water pump and those 2 plastic elbows.
          - Transmission mount (auto).
          - Brake rotors.
          - Window motors (electric).
          - Window regulators (electric).
          - Fuel pump (but more likely towards 120k+).
          - A/C system components, mainly compressor and hoses.
          - Catalytic converter clogged/bad.
          - EGR clogged/bad.
          - Steering rack (check for leaks and replace as needed).
          - Exhaust hangers and those rubber bushing things that go on them.

          My recommended 100K maintenance (I also do this for cars I buy):
          - Accessory belt.
          - Spark plugs.
          - Spark plug wire set.
          - Air filter.
          - Fuel filter.
          - Differential fluid.
          - Trans fluid (for auto). Pan drop method and swap filter.
          - Check all bushings and suspension related components. Replace as necessary.
          - Brake rotors.
          - Brake pads.
          - Brake fluid. Commonly overlooked, should be replaced as it goes bad from moisture that seeps in seriously reducing its boiling point. Should be bled through to all 4 wheels so the fluid comes out clean.
          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Buying first f-body

            I've actually replaced a lot of the items on the list. I'll be putting in a cam thia winter when I'll take the opportunity to put in a new water pump and thermostat. I think a fuel pump might be a good idea too.

            Cheers.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Buying first f-body

              I might sell you mine :) for a price. a good one. REAL good

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Buying first f-body

                has all new suspension. new brakes. All new fluid and trans/engine oil is changed VERY frequently. oil every thousand and trans every 5.
                alittle overkill. but i do lots to maintain my stuff.

                cant lie. The car has been. driven HARD cant lie. but its been cared for HARD LMAO.
                i can send you pictures.
                has custom (stock) wheels. and some custom paint that looks sick. NOT goofy or ricer. but good.

                its white and has 126k

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Buying first f-body

                  Rhunada.... There is a "stickey" at the beginning of this section "Common Fbody Problems", you might want to read those postings.

                  Thank you to the ones of you that responded, or still might respond, "On Topic". I appreciate (sp) it.

                  Bob McCoy

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Buying first f-body

                    Originally posted by bmccoy94 View Post
                    Rhunada.... There is a "stickey" at the beginning of this section "Common Fbody Problems", you might want to read those postings.

                    Thank you to the ones of you that responded, or still might respond, "On Topic". I appreciate (sp) it.

                    Bob McCoy
                    i must say, a lot of the problems i see people having in those threads arent really common

                    i would say the most common problems are:

                    - shocks going bad around 50k
                    - power window motors going bad
                    - center console hinge breaking
                    - rear axles making a grinding noise due to driving with low diff fluid
                    - stock manual transmission mounts busting

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Buying first f-body

                      another thing, take it to a car wash and run through it, find any t-top leaks. mine leak bad! lol
                      Team NoVa

                      2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Buying first f-body

                        Man look get the Firdbird!!!!!! Trust me Camaros are every where but the Firebirds are starting to get rare and more expensive as the years go by... Get the Pontiac dawg!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Buying first f-body

                          Plus the 98+ Firebirds look better!!!!!!! I have a 94 Camaro and didnt know anything about them nor did I do my research and ended up with a 94 V6 Camaro. I like it but if I knew what I knew now I wouldve gotten a 98+ Trans Am or at minimum at 97+ Z28... Don't make the same mistake I did :-(

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Buying first f-body

                            @ThaDyce17,

                            I don't really like the way Firebirds look. While I really like the front end on a WS6 Trans Am, the rear end totally ruins it for me. Overall the firebird is shaped wrong in my opinion. The Camaro has the sports car look down. Personally for either car (pontiac or chevrolet) v6 or v8, I think 99+ is the way to go, but 98+ is also acceptable.
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Buying first f-body

                              listen for ANY howling from the rear end...that could lead to axle issues and bearings. or worst case, shavings on metal in the nest. bad news!

                              Comment

                              Latest Topics

                              Collapse

                              • Andy H
                                Transmission removal help!!
                                by Andy H
                                Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
                                2 weeks ago
                              • 2.8 Bird
                                Abs inop
                                by 2.8 Bird
                                Hello, so I changed the front bearings on the bird and the ABS inoperative light came on. I made a mistake of not removing negative battery cable. Now...
                                3 weeks ago
                              • fishin
                                Intermittent Headlight Function 97 Firebird
                                by fishin
                                I usually have to double, triple my headlight switch for them to come up on my 97 Firebird. I cleaned all connections. Could it be the headlight switch...
                                3 weeks ago

                              FORUM SPONSORS

                              Collapse
                              Working...
                              X