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  • #16
    Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

    Originally posted by Need4Camaro View Post
    I would seriously prefer to fix it. not bypass it... which part needs to be replaced? The autoparts stores are telling me that there is two of them. Is it the switch where the key goes or the switch under the dash? Can someone just get me a photo of it?
    you will need to tear your entire steering column apart and replace the very smell white wires that run down behind the dash to fix it.

    these wires are so small and eventually break which is causing your problem

    i would assume that you would need to replace the ignition/key to fix it.. but in all reality, i would bypass it, VATS will not stop someone from stealing the car, if they want it, they will steal it

    its as simple as going to radio shack, buying a resistor and putting it in the wires, and your done,not spending a few hours fighting the steering column to replace everything

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    • #17
      Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

      Originally posted by cam98aro View Post
      you will need to tear your entire steering column apart and replace the very smell white wires that run down behind the dash to fix it.

      these wires are so small and eventually break which is causing your problem

      i would assume that you would need to replace the ignition/key to fix it.. but in all reality, i would bypass it, VATS will not stop someone from stealing the car, if they want it, they will steal it

      its as simple as going to radio shack, buying a resistor and putting it in the wires, and your done,not spending a few hours fighting the steering column to replace everything
      Exactly my point. :P
      -Jarred '70 Pontiac LeMans | '89 Firebird Formula 350

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      • #18
        Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

        Originally posted by Red&Black_Attack View Post
        Exactly my point. :P
        not to mention, i would buy an ac delco part, i would never trust a brand from an auto parts store especially with cheap/flimsy wires.. if i were to guess, it would be a $150 part thats labor intensive, compared to a $0.10 resistor where you need to take 2 screws and 2 bolts out and its right there

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        • #19
          Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

          Originally posted by cam98aro View Post
          you will need to tear your entire steering column apart and replace the very smell white wires that run down behind the dash to fix it.

          these wires are so small and eventually break which is causing your problem

          i would assume that you would need to replace the ignition/key to fix it.. but in all reality, i would bypass it, VATS will not stop someone from stealing the car, if they want it, they will steal it

          its as simple as going to radio shack, buying a resistor and putting it in the wires, and your done,not spending a few hours fighting the steering column to replace everything
          Originally posted by Red&Black_Attack View Post
          Exactly my point. :P
          Originally posted by cam98aro View Post
          not to mention, i would buy an ac delco part, i would never trust a brand from an auto parts store especially with cheap/flimsy wires.. if i were to guess, it would be a $150 part thats labor intensive, compared to a $0.10 resistor where you need to take 2 screws and 2 bolts out and its right there
          erh... k you win... I'll bypass it. What do I need to do to do that?
          1997 Camaro RS W/T-Tops<br />All Stock / 200 HP

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          • #20
            Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

            Originally posted by Need4Camaro View Post
            I would seriously prefer to fix it. not bypass it... which part needs to be replaced? The autoparts stores are telling me that there is two of them. Is it the switch where the key goes or the switch under the dash? Can someone just get me a photo of it?
            The switch the key goes into (properly known as the ignition lock cylinder). Attached to it are two small white wires that are shielded in orange after a couple of inches. In most cases, one of the white wires breaks because those wires have to move every time the key is turned.

            To replace it, you need to remove the steering wheel, then the steering lock plate and pull the air bag coil out. From there you can reach the retaining screw at the top of the cylinder. Remove that and you can pull the lock cylinder out from the side of the column.

            From here the easiest way to install the new cylinder (with new wires) is to cut the old wires at the cylinder, then tape the end of the new harness to the old wires and use the old wires to pull the new ones through the steering column. There's a 2pin connector at the end of it under the steering column.

            It might also be worth checking the key. If you have a different key, try that. If not, most GM dealerships will have a tool to check the key (usually at the parts counter).


            ....... or you could just bypass it.
            -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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            • #21
              Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

              Originally posted by Need4Camaro View Post
              erh... k you win... I'll bypass it. What do I need to do to do that?
              you will need to find someone to check the resistance of the chip in the key, if you dont know anyone with a multimeter, there is a ton of coupons from harbor frieght for free ones (they are $2.99) get one, and check it yourself.

              there are 9 (i think) different resistances of the chip, when you get your key checked, you will need to go to radio shack (or a similar place) and buy a resistor

              i just found this chart:

              VATS # (K)OHMS (Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)

              1———— 0.402
              2———— 0.523
              3———— 0.681
              4————-0.887
              5————-1.130
              6————-1.470
              7————-1.870
              8————-2.370
              9————-3.010
              10————3.740
              11————4.750
              12————6.040
              13————7.500
              14————9.530
              15————11.801

              your resistance will be one of those (if you have the same one as me, i think i may have an extra resistor laying around, i can send it to you) but after you do that, you will need to wire in the resistor into the wires that read the key chip (some people solder them in, others dont)

              and its basically as simple as that

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              • #22
                Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

                What's crazy is I fixed mine by using one of those "performance module's" off of ebay and it worked. Didnt even check the VATS # (K) OHMS deal.

                I just happend to have one of those laying in my garage... Yeah I was young and dumb when I got it. Then it came to good use when I needed it tho most.
                -Jarred '70 Pontiac LeMans | '89 Firebird Formula 350

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                • #23
                  Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

                  yah i have the same problem too. my 94 v6 camaro seems to have a problem with the secerity system. Idk if when i unpluged the battery it reset my codes so do i need to reset my codes or take it in to be checked?

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                  • #24
                    Re: Security Light - Car won't crank...

                    Had the same problem, had a second set of keys made cause my car only came with one set, ended up being something with the chip in the ignition key. So I use the set my car came with and the second set is there just incase.
                    3M MAFIA
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