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So I've determined that I have a vacuum leak that's killing my mileage and making my car studder on hard acceleration. I want to try to clean out my EGR first before I spend over a hundred bucks on it. Does anyone have any exsperiance cleaning an EGR out? What about any issues unbolting the EGR from the manifold? The last thing I want is to bust a bolt or ruin the EGR if it can be saved. Oh, and before anyone asks I have tested my plugs, wires, coils, and a number of sensors. Any credible ideas are welcome.
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Re: EGR question
Oh, BTW. I've replaced my fuel filter, ran injector cleaner through the system, ohmed the plug wires and coils, and pulled the plugs. Everything looked great. Granted that could be a bold face lie from the car but we will see I guess. No, I haven't checked the fuel pressure or injector resistance yet but I dought that is the issue. Maybe I'm wrong. -
Re: EGR question
You didn't post what kind of engine you have but if it is the 3.8 the EGR doesn't have any vacuum connections from what i remember. It is part of the exhaust though if you think you might have an exhaust leak the tube it connects to seems to develop leaks for some. I cleaned mine this spring and my car has 130k miles by soaking the bottom valve part in carb cleaner and going at it the next morning with a toothbrush and small flathead. It didn't fix the problem (newer egr did - i think the solenoid died in the old one) but i had no problem unbolting it and replacing it with the original gasket though I wouldn't count out needing one.
Why do you think its a vac leak? I had a vac leak from the TB to the emissions purge valve that is due to the hard line getting eaten by the belt and then my replacement didn't hold up well but it set emissions purge codes and caused hard starts and a rather rough idle.
What was your mileage before and what are you getting now?96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.Comment
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Re: EGR question
if your looking for a cheap fix....just make a plate and remove your egr all together!WAWA-A-HOLIC
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Re: EGR question
The motor is a 3.8 II. Sorry I was at work and trying to do to many things at once. Your right it doesn't have any vacuum lines to the EGR but by what I mean a vacuum leak at the EGR I mean if it is stuck open. Excesive air getting in to the cyclinders maybe. Heck, it could be just the EGR gasket it looks horrible. 99% of this car is factory minus 1 coil and the plugs and wire for what I can tell. I soaked the bolts to the EGR in lube to try and help brake them loose but they are border line welded in place. One way or another I get it off I guess. How and where does the bottom hose develope leaks? I was planning on clean that as well anyways but I haven't read anything on the hose being a source of a leak. The reason I suspect a vacuum leak is becuase the studdering is at it's worse after applying the brakes and almost none exsistant when going to WOT from a constant speed. Just acts up when vacuum seems to be at it's lowest. The car starts great and idle seems to be good minus a small inconsistancy in the sound, kind of like a very small stumble. Plus I've already found one vacuum leak on the car. It was for the A/C vent control but that told me that the age of the car is enough to wear out vacuum lines and maybe gaskets. The mileage has always been this bad. I bought it 2 months ago and have been looking into it since. Right now I'm getting about 200 miles a tank so about 12-13 mpg , no bueno. For now I can deal with it since it still gets me to work but I want the car to run properly again. I don't have any plans on any serious upgrades but just make it a very solid every day car to drive and enjoy.Comment
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Kristen, I've thought about just blocking off the egr but I don't want to deal with the SES light or any kind of programming to get it to go away. The car has 125,xxx miles on it and it's just a nice car to use while I find a 01 or 02 SS to replace the GTO I sold. :( But you are right that I want a cheap fix, I have a wife and kid so the money I make isn't really mine lol.Comment
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Robert - owner www.FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com
"Mid-life crisis? I'm way beyond that!"
1996 Black Firebird GTxxxRam Air V6 w/ M5xxxwww.FirebirdGT.com
RavenComment
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Re: EGR question
The tube is on the exhaust side - its a crinkled metal tube the provides exhaust from the manifold to the EGR valve. And I now get what you're saying about it could be a vac leak as it does dump exhaust into the intake.96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.Comment
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Re: EGR question
Yeah, soon as I can find a way to unbolt the D#@m thing I'll check out the lower hose too. Seriously think I'm gonna have to cut the bolts and brake out the tap and die set lol.Comment
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Re: EGR question
If the EGR is dead and stuck in the open position you will get rough running and stalling when letting off the gas. The engine can only handle the exhaust gases (less oxygen) when the throttle is open. Otherwise the erroneously-added exhaust gases probably mess up the AFR and cause it to want to stall. My old car that had the vacuum-operated EGR had this problem and a new EGR valve fixed it.2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone StockComment
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That's a good point Rob, I think I'm still gonna pull it off and clean it at least and put a new gasket on it. Even if it isn't the issue that's one less thing to get a leak from and maybe extend the life of the valve if I'm lucky. Still haven't had the chance to ohm the coils yet. Maybe tonight. I just hope it isn't the head gasket.Comment
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Re: EGR question
Fixed my studdering problem. It was the front ignition coil. After I pulled the EGR valve I cleaned it off and checked for proper movement on it then put it back on with a new gasket. In the process broke a bolt that holds the flex tubing at the bottom that holds it to the exhaust manifold...figures. Any way, I started to pull coils and ohm them out, both primary and secondary resistances. All the coil's secondary's were fine but the front coil primary was off by about 1k ohm. Spent $23 and replaced it and made sure there was dialectric grease on all the connections for both the new and old coils and wire. Pluged it all in and the studder is gone!! For now lol. Any ways while driving around trying to make the problem show it's self, it didn't, I was doing some burn outs and broke my tranny mount....Smart move huh..lol. Any ways, I strongly suggest getting a chilton's or hanes manual for everone so you have all the torque values and measurement values to fix issues like this. I haven't used a repair show ever in my life. Shade tree repairs and upgrades for life!! Thanks everyone.Comment
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Glad you found the problem. I would go with a poly mount so it doesn't break.08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engineComment
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Re: EGR question
ssms5411, I think I'll just get a stock mount. Poly stuff is nice but I can get the stock mount for under $25 and plus I won't have as much vibrations. If I keep the car long enough I might change the mount and some other things to poly but I've been reading alot into the phyics of our suspensions and it sounds like if you drive you car more on the road for daily purposes the farthest you should go is a harder rubber. Any stiffer than that and the suspension begins to not work like designed. Plus if I get into the mood for some serious driving fun I'll take the R1 out lol.Comment
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