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  • Valve replacement

    My mechanic told me the valves on my car are bad in two cylinders. Im on a tight budget because i needed to buy a new DD to replace it. Saving up to have it done would take awhile and now with summer and no school for a couple months i wanted to take the time to learn how to do this myself. Is there anyone that can help in telling me the difficulty in doing this. Parts ill need and point me to a good manual or website that can help in properly taking the engine apart and doing the work on it. I love my car and refused to sell it or junk it, i cant think of going through this summer without driving it so any help would be greatly appreciated!

  • #2
    Re: Valve replacement

    the parts your going to need is a full gasket set including all the valve seals and the head gaskets. My suggestion is if your going that far to replace 2 replace them all if you can swing it. the tool for pulling springs is available from most auto parts places and the process is not bad once you get the heads off. I believe the haynes manual gives a decent walk through but mine is not in front of me to check. Last I checked you will need a valve spring compressor and I would suggest a valve lapping tool( looks like a stick and a suction cup) and of course normal sockets wrenches and a set of needle nose pliers would be a great help. One more thing while the engine is apart check the whole valve train to be sure its not a bent rod or a collapsed lifter. Last summer I was told the same thing and I just got a used motor put in because I didn't have the time to tear my original engine apart
    Last edited by A fireman; 05-12-2012, 11:58 PM.

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    • #3
      Re: Valve replacement

      Probably cheap, easier, and less downtime to just swap in someone's used head they've got laying around vs. replacing valves.
      Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

      2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
      Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

      Go Sabres!

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      • #4
        Re: Valve replacement

        I agree , might as well get used heads, but with 4177 stamp on them so thier not 96-97 ones prone to crack at the guides.
        08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
        96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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        • #5
          Re: Valve replacement

          Originally posted by ssms5411 View Post
          I agree , might as well get used heads, but with 4177 stamp on them so thier not 96-97 ones prone to crack at the guides.
          Wow I dint know that it was only a 96-97 problem. I just got mine repaired because of a crack at the guides and if I had known it was a common problem I would have just replaced them with newer heads. Why is it that they are prone to cracks? My machine shop told me that the 3.8 are prone to creaking there but he said all of them suffer from it.

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          • #6
            Re: Valve replacement

            They fixed the issue on 98+ heads with the part #4177 heads, poor design I guess thats why they crack.
            08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
            96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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            • #7
              Re: Valve replacement

              Often times if the head overheats it cracks in the little space between the intake and exhaust valve. What was his basis on a telling you the valves were bad? Compression test? Either way like stated above it would be better to buy a set of good heads from someone and swap them in. It took me about 2 days to get my heads back from the machine shop when I took them, they dissasembled them and milled them, and reassembled them, and cost about $65 a head ($35 to resurface, plus lapping the valves, labor and stem seals) if I remember correctly. dude had a set for sale with aftermarket springs for $175. IMO that alone would be worth your time. As long as the heads are straight and no issues, that would be the path I would go. Drive the car til you are ready and that way the car isn't sitting with an open engine for days while you wait on your heads.

              http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=105224
              Last edited by flamingchicken; 05-15-2012, 02:24 AM.
              Team NoVa

              2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

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              • #8
                Re: Valve replacement

                Originally posted by firebird19_99 View Post
                My mechanic told me the valves on my car are bad in two cylinders. Im on a tight budget because i needed to buy a new DD to replace it. Saving up to have it done would take awhile and now with summer and no school for a couple months i wanted to take the time to learn how to do this myself. Is there anyone that can help in telling me the difficulty in doing this. Parts ill need and point me to a good manual or website that can help in properly taking the engine apart and doing the work on it. I love my car and refused to sell it or junk it, i cant think of going through this summer without driving it so any help would be greatly appreciated!
                Your best bet is to go to the salvage yard and get a new head,bring it to a machine shop and get it milled,order a gasket kit and the chilton book for your car ALSO CHECK OUT THE VALVES AND LIFTERS might want to just rebuild that head while its out ,video are ok but you learn more with illustrations,Save alot of money this way guaranteed:rock:

                -JIMFIRE
                Last edited by jimfire; 05-15-2012, 12:40 PM.

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                • #9
                  Re: Valve replacement

                  Firebird 1999 gotta clean out your pm box lol.
                  http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=102488
                  Last edited by espey_16; 05-15-2012, 04:10 PM.
                  1997 Chevrolet Camaro
                  L26, Pacesetter headers, SLP cai, Centerforce DF clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, UMI short stick, 1le driveline, J&M 35mm front swaybar, UMI lca's/phb/sfc's, KYB AGX shocks, Hotchkis stb.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Valve replacement

                    Originally posted by espey_16 View Post
                    Firebird 1999 gotta clean out your pm box lol.
                    http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=102488
                    might pick them up friday, sorry about the full pm box lol How much to 60176?

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                    • #11
                      Re: Valve replacement

                      Thanks everyone for the input, it seems that replacing the heads is the quickest and best way so thats they route im going to go. Hopefully i can do this on my own but thats why i have a couple months to do it. Take my time and do it right

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                      • #12
                        Re: Valve replacement

                        Originally posted by firebird19_99 View Post
                        Thanks everyone for the input, it seems that replacing the heads is the quickest and best way so thats they route im going to go. Hopefully i can do this on my own but thats why i have a couple months to do it. Take my time and do it right
                        I know we touched bases on this subject already,but make sure you ask all question,for no question is a stupid one,knowledge is power,dont forget that you have to toque down the bolts on the head to the block and you will need to find those specs,this is why the Chilton book comes in handy,prepare before hand and read up.:rock:

                        -Jimfire

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