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Running well, or running? lol....That does not sound as if it is running well at all. I am willing to bet that your car is also pulling timing given how loud that knock is. That's why the car feels sluggish to you. Like I said, each degree of timing that the car is pulling is worth 3-5 rwhp
It should be running flawlessly for that kind of coin. It really shouldn't be your issue to figure out what's wrong with it, you paid (A lot) to have it rebuilt; if it isn't running like any other rebuilt engine would, then challenge your shop on it.
In America's Hat!
1997 Camaro 30th 'vert... GT1 cam/C6 wheels/Flowmaster/HIDs/Viper 2 way alarm/Alpine audio mods up the wazoo
2005 Equinox LT... mostly stock daily/Thule snowsports roof system/sound + interior mods
I paid 3850 for my entire car, which was a steal but still. 84k miles and it runs flawlessly. For that dough they should have your car running perfect and include a reach around
It should be running flawlessly for that kind of coin. It really shouldn't be your issue to figure out what's wrong with it, you paid (A lot) to have it rebuilt; if it isn't running like any other rebuilt engine would, then challenge your shop on it.
Exactly, it's 2gs to have a motor rebuilt here, granted that's if you uninstall and reinstall yourself. If you paid someone to do that you'd be looking at roughly another grand, so 3gs total and I think that's crazy high, but that's because prices are nuts up here.
If it were me id drop the car off at the shop in the morning and say I paid damn near 4g for this rebuild, you take this car back and call me when its flawless.
Tell them if they think that's normal, take out any other 3800 car and tell them to explain to you where that knock is...and when they say it's not there, tell them exactly... Because that car is running good
If they give u lip threaten to go to the bbb, or better yet do so if they refuse to fix it. The only ticking the car should have is a very faint ticking from the injectors, it's quiet, so quiet that you have to have your ear to the motor to even hear it...
Agreed. Before my motor was rebuilt I changed the intake gasket and it was quiet as hell. I drove that Firebird and it was drop dead silent too. So it should be the same now. Its not running well. I am going to take it back soon. I think they just took advantage of me on the price because I drove my 2010 5-series BMW up there to drop it off. I dont mind paying for things but damn can you make sure its right? And if you are going to charge me more than anyone else, can you offer me something that they cant offer me?
Just so you guys know, This engine has only had synthetic fluids in it (royal purple), I wonder if it would be worse if it was all conventional. DO you guys know what that noise is from listening to the video?
it's hard to tell what it is from a video camera and without really being there to isolate where in the engine bay it's coming from. It could be any or all of the above that I mentioned before. To me it's too loud to be an exhaust leak and sounds mechanical, but again, that's listening to it over the internet and not being there.
Conventional vs synthetic oil makes no difference for noise.
How does the oil look? is there any sparkles in it?
it's hard to tell what it is from a video camera and without really being there to isolate where in the engine bay it's coming from. It could be any or all of the above that I mentioned before. To me it's too loud to be an exhaust leak and sounds mechanical, but again, that's listening to it over the internet and not being there.
Conventional vs synthetic oil makes no difference for noise.
How does the oil look? is there any sparkles in it?
Havent looked yet. we will see tomorrow I suppose.
Yeah to be honest I havent ran 87 in a while. I upgraded the ignition system because I knew the premium fuel is harder to burn. I was hoping it would provide a substantial gain in the spark but just for you I may try a tank of 89 and see how that works. You may be right. It may run better on 89. We shall see.
The ignition system in these cars is actually quite efficient. Different plugs/wires would be the best you can do, replacing the coils is almost pointless. These wastespark coils are damn good at doing what they need to do, there isn't an aftermarket coil that is going to substantially outperform the stockers.
As for motor oil, I'll be honest, I don't get the point of Royal Purple. Its an overpriced oil with purple coloring. You can run a synthetic in there, Mobil 1 is cheaper for example. Its not so much the oil as it is changing it and checking it regularly. I check my trucks oil every 10% life it drops, but I only run Valvoline high mileage in it. Its as quiet as can be, and Ive put 40,000 miles on it in the year Ive owned it.
You seem to be caught up on the notion that if you spend more money on higher priced things, that youre getting a better product. Its not always the case. There are cheaper and BETTER alternatives.
1995 Pontiac Firebird
2008 Chevrolet Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4
The ignition system in these cars is actually quite efficient. Different plugs/wires would be the best you can do, replacing the coils is almost pointless. These wastespark coils are damn good at doing what they need to do, there isn't an aftermarket coil that is going to substantially outperform the stockers.
As for motor oil, I'll be honest, I don't get the point of Royal Purple. Its an overpriced oil with purple coloring. You can run a synthetic in there, Mobil 1 is cheaper for example. Its not so much the oil as it is changing it and checking it regularly. I check my trucks oil every 10% life it drops, but I only run Valvoline high mileage in it. Its as quiet as can be, and Ive put 40,000 miles on it in the year Ive owned it.
You seem to be caught up on the notion that if you spend more money on higher priced things, that youre getting a better product. Its not always the case. There are cheaper and BETTER alternatives.
there's this test i learned today about the oils viscosity . what you do is get any brands of oil you want to test and get a dab of it on your index finger and rub it with your thumb for two minutes straight. after your done wipe your finger down a piece of paper , which ever skid of oil is the longest that's the oil with the best viscosity.
my class did it with quakerstate, Valvoline regular, Valvoline synthetic. Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and 2 others i cant remember. the end result was that Valvoline synthetic was the winner.
they all were 10w-30
i kinda wana do this test vs royal purple to see how it stand up against the Valvoline synthetic
there's this test i learned today about the oils viscosity . what you do is get any brands of oil you want to test and get a dab of it on your index finger and rub it with your thumb for two minutes straight. after your done wipe your finger down a piece of paper , which ever skid of oil is the longest that's the oil with the best viscosity.
my class did it with quakerstate, Valvoline regular, Valvoline synthetic. Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and 2 others i cant remember. the end result was that Valvoline synthetic was the winner.
they all were 10w-30
i kinda wana do this test vs royal purple to see how it stand up against the Valvoline synthetic
Do it against Amsoils signature series. That's what I like about AMS, is that you have a ton of options for different 5w30/10w30 synthetic oils from them, and one of them is bound to suit your needs. If you are a preferred customer oil is cheap, if you buy at regular price it is $$$
Do it against Amsoils signature series. That's what I like about AMS, is that you have a ton of options for different 5w30/10w30 synthetic oils from them, and one of them is bound to suit your needs. If you are a preferred customer oil is cheap, if you buy at regular price it is $$$
It almost doesn't matter which brand of oil you use because once you car keeps using that same brand it's important you stick with it instead of going from brand to brand everytime you do an oil change.
The ignition system in these cars is actually quite efficient. Different plugs/wires would be the best you can do, replacing the coils is almost pointless. These wastespark coils are damn good at doing what they need to do, there isn't an aftermarket coil that is going to substantially outperform the stockers.
As for motor oil, I'll be honest, I don't get the point of Royal Purple. Its an overpriced oil with purple coloring. You can run a synthetic in there, Mobil 1 is cheaper for example. Its not so much the oil as it is changing it and checking it regularly. I check my trucks oil every 10% life it drops, but I only run Valvoline high mileage in it. Its as quiet as can be, and Ive put 40,000 miles on it in the year Ive owned it.
You seem to be caught up on the notion that if you spend more money on higher priced things, that youre getting a better product. Its not always the case. There are cheaper and BETTER alternatives.
I see your point. The way I see it is that the more performance you want from a given part or product, the price goes up exponentially. There is a value decision that some people make at a certain point because the difference in cost is more than they are willing to pay. The difference between the stock coils and aftermarket accels or MSDs may be small but there is a difference nonetheless.
The differnce between regular unleaded and premium unleaded is HUGE. Especially if 93 octane is available where you live. Now how much it helps in our engines, I think is case by case. When I had the factory engine installed, I could tell the difference between an 87 octane tank and a 93 octane tank. Seat of the pants difference and a difference in sound. (I guess my computer was altering the timing)
The difference in oils is still significant but it isnt so much the oil as it is the filter and the intervals in which you change it. Royal purple is slicker, less prone to break down, and all around stronger. Who is to say how much? Different engines in different climates, driven by different people. However it is proven to be, at minimum, slightly better.
It takes a lot of time to develop something that is OE quality or better. So whatever you develop for a given application, is going to cost more, the more time you have to spend with it.
I use Royal Purple's products, not because they give you the most bang for the buck, but rather because they seem to spend the most time and effort to develop things. I have noticed this first hand. I change my oil every 3500-4000 miles regardless. You made a valid point about the intervals being vital to the whole process.
I cannot always afford the best but when I can I buy it. Not because my dollar goes farther but because it is the best. People always like to hate on products that are at the top of the class, but thats okay because if they didnt, we wold get nothing improved. To be the best it takes significantly more effort to just nudge the runner up in quality. So that is why you see royal purple oil cost $2-$3 more than penzoil synthetic. Thats why so many things seem overpriced.
I will end with an example using myself. I am saving to buy my dream supercar.... A 2006 Ford GT. I just love they way it looks and they have so much potential to just flat fly. (standing mile records and other crazy stuff). Well I have no doubt that cars like the Lexus LFA, Ferrari F12 Berlinetta, Lamborghini Aventador, and cars like that, are better built, and have superior interior quality. A good low mileage Ford GT will set me back a good 170K+, wile the listed cars above all cost about 300K+. While I could make a poor financial decision to buy one of those cars, at twice the price, my value decision stops there. There is no doubt that those cars are some of the best in their class at just about everything from performance to quality, but when you are talking 300 grand compared to around 170K, I can go without the things that are better.
This concept applies to auto parts, and maintaining your vehicle. It is perfectly okay to decide that the value ends at a point for you. But our points are different. I AM NOT saying I make better choices or anything like that. I am just saying that different auto enthusiasts have different value systems and its not my job to knock anyone else. Just like I am not going to knock someone for buying a Lexus LFA, even though the car I want costs 1/2 as much can wipe the drag strip with it. Hopefully they can respect my decision.
So yes I like to buy the good parts when I can afford them. Same with gas and oil. Sometimes my budget forces me to compromise. When I put brakes on my 550i for example, I wanted a Brembo kit. Well the Brembo rotors, pads, calipers, and miscellaneous parts were over $5,000. Couldn't afford it so back went on OEM. Still freakin expensive but oh well.
I didnt mention that everyone's experience is different, but that also factors into things.
If you know of some things that are cheaper AND offer Superior quality and performance compared to a "top dog" competitor, then please let us know. I am sure we could all benefit from that information.
But if the "top dog" is better in all relevant categories, even by a little bit, then it is better. Now how much it costs vs how much better, comes back to each individual's value decision.
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