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[Mogobs30th]

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The difference between the stock coils and aftermarket accels or MSDs may be small but there is a difference nonetheless.

The only difference between these coils is that one is red, one is yellow, and one is black. You might see better gas mileage between the MSD and stock, by possibly a 1/4 mile per gallon. The Accel is literally no difference.

When I had the factory engine installed, I could tell the difference between an 87 octane tank and a 93 octane tank. Seat of the pants difference and a difference in sound. (I guess my computer was altering the timing)

If you can show me recordable differences on a dyno I'd love to see it. Stock to stock, the gas will not matter.

People always like to hate on products that are at the top of the class

Ive seen many studies that Shell Rotella outperforms Royal Purple, at a 1/3 of the price.

If you're willing to shell out $3900 for a new engine, I don't think the words "value decided" are what I would use to describe your decisions on auto parts and accessories. "Gullible" would make more sense to me. I think if I had a $50 quart of oil you'd probably buy it because it was expensive.

[nwilson44]

Re: Something is wrong with this picture

The only difference between these coils is that one is red, one is yellow, and one is black. You might see better gas mileage between the MSD and stock, by possibly a 1/4 mile per gallon. The Accel is literally no difference.



If you can show me recordable differences on a dyno I'd love to see it. Stock to stock, the gas will not matter.



Ive seen many studies that Shell Rotella outperforms Royal Purple, at a 1/3 of the price.

If you're willing to shell out $3900 for a new engine, I don't think the words "value decided" are what I would use to describe your decisions on auto parts and accessories. "Gullible" would make more sense to me. I think if I had a $50 quart of oil you'd probably buy it because it was expensive.

I know shell Rotella is great for diesel applications. The reason I use royal purple is because I tore down my M50 engine out of my 1993 525i after 397,000 miles. Compression was way too low in 3 of the 6 cylinders. I drove it the last 150k that was put on it, and used royal purple. I was astounded by how new some of the parts looked when I pulled the oil pan. I mean I was expecting it to look like hell in a hand basket, but it didn't. Even the guys on the BMW forum were a little shaken.

I will see what I can do to show you the difference I felt with the octane differences. The videos on my channel now are running 93. I will see if I can get one on 87.

[ssms5411]

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Do it against Amsoils signature series. That's what I like about AMS, is that you have a ton of options for different 5w30/10w30 synthetic oils from them, and one of them is bound to suit your needs. If you are a preferred customer oil is cheap, if you buy at regular price it is $$$

Although theres nothing wrong with the oil you use I did switch from RP to Amsoil and was extremely happy with the results. If you go through a dealer like Lezride you can save some money on a case.

[nwilson44]

Re: Something is wrong with this picture

Although theres nothing wrong with the oil you use I did switch from RP to Amsoil and was extremely happy with the results. If you go through a dealer like Lezride you can save some money on a case.

Never Heard of that particular oil. Would you mind educating me on it? What additives does it have over the normal oils?

[ssms5411]

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http://www.amsoil.com/?zo=1907169 heres the link for Amsoil , I think it has more zinc in it compared to regular oil might want to ask Letzride or FirebirdGT they know more about it then I do.

[LETZRIDE]

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If you can show me recordable differences on a dyno I'd love to see it. Stock to stock, the gas will not matter.

Yes and no, seeing a difference would be car dependent, even stock vs stock. You have to remember here, if you pop open the tune in hp tuners you'll notice we have a high and low octane spark table. Our cars will always attempt to run on the high octane spark table except when the car starts to see KR it will kick down to the low octane spark table. (little more complicated than that, but I don't feel like going into crazy depth)

Soo, if he is seeing something like burst knock/knock by using the lower octane gas then he will be seeing a few degrees of retarded timing. Remember each degree is worth about 3-5rwhp, so if you are in the low octane table which can be 4-5* timing lower than the high octane table at WOT...you're down about 12-25 rwhp.

BUT ^^ that is car dependent based on if something is causing the factory car to see KR with 87 octane. So yes you can see a difference, but you could also be wasting money. Really the only way to tell is to scan for KR with a tank of 87 octane

Never Heard of that particular oil. Would you mind educating me on it? What additives does it have over the normal oils?

Thanks for the link Steve!

So, Amsoil has been around for forever, as they say, they were the first in synthetic oils. That being said, what you are asking is kind of a loaded question, so rather than sparking an arguement about which oil is better (because people view tests used differently and no one can agree on which tests mean more) I'll provide you with some info and you can decide what is best for your needs.

Couple things I'll start off with

1) we have a lot more oils to choose from to suit the needs of your car. We have european oils that have a different formulation to meet the standards of BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, gas/diesel engines. We have for non euro cars our Signature/XL/OE/Z-rod/racing/Dominator/premium oils.

I use signature, I think it is our best, it has the lowest 4-ball wear rating at 0.35 vs RP that has I think 0.66

XL is basically the OE oil just with a few more additives to allow you to run extended intervals. I would group both of these oils with our premium oils...run of the mill, good synthetic oil.

Racing/dominator- I would use as track only oils, They never used to have the SAE rating, now the Dominator finally does. In any event, both are highly resistant to high temps and oil breakdown, but for street use I like the signature series better (still a lower/better 4-ball wear rating at 0.35 for signature vs 0.38 for dominator)

Z-rod has a higher zinc content and is meant for engines running flat tappet cams

we also have break in oil which is self explanatory.


If you want a good read on oils, this article does a great job of comparing several of them
http://www.freeoilhelp.com/misc-imag...her%20oils.pdf

Essentially, if you just want to know what it says about AMS vs RP, here:

The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate.This compares to the AMSOIL TRO with only a 4.47% volatility rating.
Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the AMSOIL TRO left a .41mm scar and the Royal Purple oil left a .66mm scar. The lower the scare damage number the better!There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index.The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures

2) After saying all that, you wanted to know what preferred customer means?...basically AMS offers a membership you can buy which gives you wholesale prices on their oil. Do you guys have Costco in the US? Same concept.

So, membership cost is $10 for 6 months, or $20 for the year. What do you get out of it? about 25% savings on the listed price.

Ex. Signature series costs $10.15/quart regular price...with membership it costs $7.85/quart.

So technically speaking, buy enough oil for 2 oil changes a year, and you already saved yourself $23 (minus the 20$ for membership, so really 3$) but that's only buying oil...

Now factor in that we also carry every possible fluid that can go in your car, every grease you can imagine, Filters, NGK spark plugs, All Mothers car care products and you get discounts on all of that extra fun stuff, you can save some good coin lol.

Anyways, I don't want to sound/make this into a sale thread. So feel free to PM me if you have any questions on the above.

It almost doesn't matter which brand of oil you use because once you car keeps using that same brand it's important you stick with it instead of going from brand to brand every time you do an oil change.

It doesn't matter. Switching brands or back and forth between conventional and synthetic isn't going to hurt anything (other than the fact that you're using an oil that allows "more wear"). When I pull my car out of storage I run conventional oil in it for 500km and then I'll toss my sig series AMS oil back in it for the remainder of the season.

[ssms5411]

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Thanks for explaining it Mike, I'm going to need another case of oil also,LOL I'll PM you.

[nwilson44]

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Ohh okay so looks like there is another good brand to buy. I am going to go ahead and do some more research on the topic and see the differences in more detail. I do know its not readily available like royal purple but thats not that big of a deal, at least where I live. Thanks for the information though! I need to do some more research.

[LETZRIDE]

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It is readily available in the parts store, it is usually the most expensive oil on the shelf. Over here it sells for about 15-20$/quart at the parts store...which is insane.

I don't know how far you are from Dallas Texas, but there is a AMS distribution center located in Dallas. If you are a member you don't even need to ship the stuff, you can just place and order, pop in and pick it up. Zip code is for the Dallas warehouse is 76011 if that helps you any

[FIREBIRDV6RAGE]

Re: Something is wrong with this picture

It is readily available in the parts store, it is usually the most expensive oil on the shelf. Over here it sells for about 15-20$/quart at the parts store...which is insane.

I don't know how far you are from Dallas Texas, but there is a AMS distribution center located in Dallas. If you are a member you don't even need to ship the stuff, you can just place and order, pop in and pick it up. Zip code is for the Dallas warehouse is 76011 if that helps you any

i am so going to look for this place lol for my next oil change . i saw it on the shelf n it was 20 a quart i was like :omg: na man thats way to expensive lol

[ssms5411]

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You can get it for about $11 a quart ordering it online, and thats shipped to your door.

[LETZRIDE]

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i am so going to look for this place lol for my next oil change . i saw it on the shelf n it was 20 a quart i was like :omg: na man thats way to expensive lol

Doesn't quite work like that lol. It's not a parts store, it's a warehouse, so it isnt really branded. Without the address, you probably wouldn't find it.

2nd) you need a membership to go in and pick anything up, which is why I didn't put the full address on here. I don't want people to show up, be turned away and then get all p*ssed off. I can p.m you the address if you are interested in checking it out though. There are warehouses all over the USA, usually only 1 per State though.

You can get it for about $11 a quart ordering it online, and thats shipped to your door.

That's for the stuff you get lol, you can save even more if you went with the OE oil, which is a nice synthetic oil as well...it runs $6.10/quart as a non member, and $4.70/quart as a member.

[Mogobs30th]

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Can't you buy that stuff in bulk? Like 40 gallons at a time in a drum, for FAR cheaper than a shelf price?

[LETZRIDE]

Re: Something is wrong with this picture

Can't you buy that stuff in bulk? Like 40 gallons at a time in a drum, for FAR cheaper than a shelf price?

yesssssir, the more you buy the cheaper it is. Actually, anytime you don't buy off the shelf it's cheaper. Anyone who has worked in retail knows that stores jack up the price by 200-300%...so even the list price on AMS's site for non members is still cheaper than shelf price.


So for something like the 10w30 OE oil you have the option of getting (drum wise) 30 Gallon, 55 Gallon, and 275 Gallon totes. The problem is, you spend a good chunk of money up front to get it...but if you split with a buddy or two, it's a sweet deal.


Ex:

30 Gallon drum: non member price: $617.25 Member Price: $493.80

55 Gallon drum: non member price: $1052.65 Member Price: $855.80

275 Gallon drum: non member price: $5229.35 Member Price: $4251.50

So theoretically speaking, if you use 5 quarts for an oil change (we use a bit less) a 30 gallon drum will last you 24 oil changes so at member price you're spending about 20$ an oil change.

55 gallon = 220 oil changes = $19.45/change.

275 gallon = 1100 oil changes = $19.32/change


Most people, myself included, don't have room to put an oil drum somewhere though.

[ssms5411]

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I think I might do the 30 gallon drum next time , pretty good savings.