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  • Temp gauge dead

    I disconnected the negative pole from the battery to erase the EGR code, when reconnected after 20 minutes the temp gauge was just dead, the needle or arm was not on zero, but all way down, and the SES light is still on. What do I do?
    Camaro99\'3.8, original spoil package (no body mods...PROUDLY), K&N, Lid 3800II, SLP CAI, Flowmaster, Z28Chrome Tips, 180* Thermostat.

  • #2
    Re: Temp gauge dead

    Yeah man mine does the exact same thing every once in a while, I have no clue. I even replaced the temp sensor. It only does it once in a blue moon. I would start changing the sensor and cleaning the connections, and see where that takes you.

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    • #3
      Re: Temp gauge dead

      Did you run the car to where it would be at a normal temp? If the gauge does not move then either the sensor is dead, the wire is disconnected, or the actual gauge is dead.

      As for the EGR, as soon as the PCM commands the EGR to move and does not see a response it likes, the code will be set. So this may happen immediately. I don't know if the PCM waits for the engine to warm up before operating the EGR.
      2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock

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      • #4
        Re: Temp gauge dead

        Forgot to mention, you can try grounding the sensor lead and see if the gauge moves all the way to the hot position.
        2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock

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        • #5
          Re: Temp gauge dead

          Originally posted by Rob Bell View Post
          Did you run the car to where it would be at a normal temp? If the gauge does not move then either the sensor is dead, the wire is disconnected, or the actual gauge is dead.

          As for the EGR, as soon as the PCM commands the EGR to move and does not see a response it likes, the code will be set. So this may happen immediately. I don't know if the PCM waits for the engine to warm up before operating the EGR.
          You're right, I haven't run the car at normal temp, just at cold temp. Maybe doing this will clear the EGR code and move the temp gauge. Before I disconnected the negative pole, I cleaned with carburetor cleaner the original valve, and other used valve I bought, but someone advice me to get the code cleared in order to know if what I did really worked. Do you think disconnecting the negative pole will really erase the code? I did this, cause autozone didn't want to do it.
          Camaro99\'3.8, original spoil package (no body mods...PROUDLY), K&N, Lid 3800II, SLP CAI, Flowmaster, Z28Chrome Tips, 180* Thermostat.

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          • #6
            Re: Temp gauge dead

            Hey guys, I ran the car this morning and after 15 minutes the temp gauge fix itself, but not the EGR code. I need ask Orelly's guys or pepboys to clear the code, hopefully they want to do it.
            Camaro99\'3.8, original spoil package (no body mods...PROUDLY), K&N, Lid 3800II, SLP CAI, Flowmaster, Z28Chrome Tips, 180* Thermostat.

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            • #7
              Re: Temp gauge dead

              Originally posted by borispeed View Post
              Hey guys, I ran the car this morning and after 15 minutes the temp gauge fix itself, but not the EGR code. I need ask Orelly's guys or pepboys to clear the code, hopefully they want to do it.
              They aren't allowed to but ask them if they will let you do it if they refuse. If you can get the car tuned just delete it. Mine was causing more harm than anything. I found two used tubes that wouldnt stop leaking. If the manifold is leaking let me know because I have an extra driver side manifold with the EGR connection.

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              • #8
                Re: Temp gauge dead

                Yes, ask them to let you see the code reader, and then hit the clear code button.

                How long has your SES light been on for the EGR? Mine used to do that and it would go away after a couple of days. What happened with mine, and this is a known problem with GM vehicles, is that the PCM expects to see the EGR valve move faster than the valve is sometimes capable of. Example would be, the PCM commands that the valve move 5 clicks in a certain timeframe, and the valve is not fast enough, so it moved 4 clicks in that timeframe. Maybe it really moved the whole 5 clicks, but it just didn't do it in the alotted time. So the PCM sees that it's inaccurate, and sets a code. You could end up spending hundreds of dollars on new EGRs and never solve this problem. The only fix is to "de-sensitize" the PCM via tuning.
                2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock

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                • #9
                  Re: Temp gauge dead

                  Originally posted by nwilson44 View Post
                  They aren't allowed to but ask them if they will let you do it if they refuse. If you can get the car tuned just delete it. Mine was causing more harm than anything. I found two used tubes that wouldnt stop leaking. If the manifold is leaking let me know because I have an extra driver side manifold with the EGR connection.
                  Unfortunately I don't have hp tuners or any kind of tuner. I have headers, and I don't think I have a leak.
                  Camaro99\'3.8, original spoil package (no body mods...PROUDLY), K&N, Lid 3800II, SLP CAI, Flowmaster, Z28Chrome Tips, 180* Thermostat.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Temp gauge dead

                    Originally posted by Rob Bell View Post
                    Yes, ask them to let you see the code reader, and then hit the clear code button.

                    How long has your SES light been on for the EGR? Mine used to do that and it would go away after a couple of days. What happened with mine, and this is a known problem with GM vehicles, is that the PCM expects to see the EGR valve move faster than the valve is sometimes capable of. Example would be, the PCM commands that the valve move 5 clicks in a certain timeframe, and the valve is not fast enough, so it moved 4 clicks in that timeframe. Maybe it really moved the whole 5 clicks, but it just didn't do it in the alotted time. So the PCM sees that it's inaccurate, and sets a code. You could end up spending hundreds of dollars on new EGRs and never solve this problem. The only fix is to "de-sensitize" the PCM via tuning.
                    It has been a while, like three months. Will this affect anything? So far the car has been working ok. I'm going to sell the car, but before I want to fix this, and fix an A/C leak.
                    Camaro99\'3.8, original spoil package (no body mods...PROUDLY), K&N, Lid 3800II, SLP CAI, Flowmaster, Z28Chrome Tips, 180* Thermostat.

                    Comment

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