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  • Drivability

    Hey guys, in having some issues. My voltage is dropping intermittently causing low lights, poor throttle response, and it runs like crap. The idle is super choppy and when I unplug the mass air flow it behaves, kind of. I went to change it and nothing happened. Did the same thing with a new one. I also put a ac delco alternator and an optima battery on and t does the same thing. Some help is appreciated!

  • #2
    Re: Drivability

    when does it do it? under what types of conditions?

    2002 SOM Z28 Camaro - 12.9 @ 104 mph
    1996 3800 Camaro - 13.43 @ 100.77 mph


    Project Cars | How To Guides | Scratch Repair | Synthetic Oil

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    • #3
      Re: Drivability

      Originally posted by LETZRIDE View Post
      when does it do it? under what types of conditions?
      Under braking or when it's sitting. I got it to idle decently with the maf plugged in but it stopped. P

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      • #4
        Re: Drivability

        could be the exciter wire that plugs into the back of the alternator. Mine was brittle and caused similar issues (thin red wire that goes in the top of the alt)

        Check that wire and see if it is brittle and try and trace it back as far as you can.

        2002 SOM Z28 Camaro - 12.9 @ 104 mph
        1996 3800 Camaro - 13.43 @ 100.77 mph


        Project Cars | How To Guides | Scratch Repair | Synthetic Oil

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        • #5
          Re: Drivability

          What was the fix? Not the battery cable but the sensor right?

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          • #6
            Re: Drivability

            Another thing you might want to check is the belt tensionor to see if the belt is slipping causing the voltage to drop.
            08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
            96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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            • #7
              Re: Drivability

              If you pull the pass side kick panel there is a white connector with about 12 pins or so. Disconnect it and on the lower left hand corner of the engine side of the connector is a red wire. This is the wire that runs from the back of the alternator to your voltmeter in the gauge cluster if you want to test it.

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              • #8
                Re: Drivability

                The gauge is accurate. I had it tested. I just don't know why it's acting up. The voltage never used to drop until the idling issues started.

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                • #9
                  Re: Drivability

                  the fix was replacing that wire

                  2002 SOM Z28 Camaro - 12.9 @ 104 mph
                  1996 3800 Camaro - 13.43 @ 100.77 mph


                  Project Cars | How To Guides | Scratch Repair | Synthetic Oil

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Drivability

                    Well She still isnt happy. Have no idea whats going on.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Drivability

                      My car did the same thing you state but all I did was a new alternator and all was fixed. You said you already replaced the alternator so I kind of ruled that out. Starting to sound as if the regulator rectifier in the alternator is bad. When mine went bad it created all kinds of problems with blown bulbs misfire etc. Mine was a new one also and it was the regulator inside the alternator. Good news is brand new ones were a dime a dozen at the junk yard. I just picked one that looked new and said Altima on it. That's the o'reilly rebuild part.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Drivability

                        Did you pull the connector for that exciter wire at the alternator and test the voltage? You'll want to test it with the engine running. You can get an ohm reading from end to end on the main battery to alt cable to test connectivity. Did you have the alt and battery tested? It could even be a ground issue. Electrical problems can be really annoying.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Drivability

                          Originally posted by techsan23 View Post
                          Did you pull the connector for that exciter wire at the alternator and test the voltage? You'll want to test it with the engine running. You can get an ohm reading from end to end on the main battery to alt cable to test connectivity. Did you have the alt and battery tested? It could even be a ground issue. Electrical problems can be really annoying.
                          I dont have an Ohmeter. I just replaced my battery with a yellow top optima. I replaced my ground cable and it quieted down but didnt fix it.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Drivability

                            Originally posted by htmabe View Post
                            My car did the same thing you state but all I did was a new alternator and all was fixed. You said you already replaced the alternator so I kind of ruled that out. Starting to sound as if the regulator rectifier in the alternator is bad. When mine went bad it created all kinds of problems with blown bulbs misfire etc. Mine was a new one also and it was the regulator inside the alternator. Good news is brand new ones were a dime a dozen at the junk yard. I just picked one that looked new and said Altima on it. That's the o'reilly rebuild part.
                            Yeah this is my second AC Delco alternator, and its supposed to be a good one.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Drivability

                              Guess that rules out the simple fix. yellow top optimas are awesome run it on my race car with no alternator, lots of reserve power.
                              Ohmeters are cheap and if a new ground wire calmed it down sounds like your headed the right direction. I would buy an ohmmeter and check that exciter wire but all he said to check was continuity.. Personally never heard of an exciter wire till this thread but it can be another thing to rule out if nothing else.
                              Can't believe your cars not throwing a code like knock retard or maf or the finickey coils. Harmonic balancer good and tight? No new one for a case relearn? Fuel filter clean? Fuel pump pressure where it belongs?Sometimes problems can be traced back to last worked on. What's the last thing you worked on? Just throwing some crap out there like maybe its not electrical.What ever it is it isn't obivious

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