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Seems to run just fine, but sometimes it seems like a small miss and takes longer to shift. Deff noticable on bridges (or likely hill for those of you not living on flat earth), but not at all times. Giving it more throttle seems to smooth it out.
So this is warm, under load, under light throttle condition. Plugs are fairly new. PCV is clean. I have yet to even find the IAC if it even has one...
No IAC on 2002, maybe get some Maf cleaner and spray it down. If theres no codes , thats a good sign. Hows the plug wires?
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Since my girl didn't need the car today I decided I would take it to work to she how she does. It seems when I barely accel is when the hesitation is felt the most. Cruise, idle, and heavy throttle seems fine, however, under heavy throttle I can tell the is a deff lack of power.
Got the scanner on it today and found code P1404. Replaced EGR not too long ago, maybe bad again or something else? Also, may have not cleared the code since.
Then thought to myself 'just pay attention to temp'. Then noticed the temp gauge was not working at all. Decided to check codes again at work and it showed pending fault P0128
So I cleaned EGR, and added a bit of water.
No codes show since but EGR wasnt really dirty nor was the pintle sticking.
I know now that the hesitation is much worse with the AC and almost non-existent with it off.
Still need to spray that MAF.
OK, more problems.
So today I decided to take off the throttle body and clean it. And Im glad I did!
Clean the TB wasnt so bad, it was the layers of gunk in the intake, and I do mean layers; had a putty knife work as a shovel.
Also, it looks as though she may have had a water leak from the TB. Am I right (see pics)?
Now that I have it all back together, after first crank I had a lot of TPS codes. Erased them and gave it a spin. Wow, power has returned! ...but, rough idle remains. I can hear a faint sssss... Vacuum leak. Just cant tell where. Felt all around TB and EGR to no avail.
Now I also noticed the crank pulley is wobbling! What the hell does that mean?
A cheap steering wheel puller should work just fine, if you already have one, even better! I think I bought one from Autozone for under $20, if I remember correctly though, our balancers require a different thread than what was provided with the puller so I had to go to a hardware store to find the correct bolts. It should take 3 bolts to pull it off nice and square, I believe they are 3-1/2" x 1/4" bolts.
Also, to re-install is fairly easy. Simply put the balancer back on and run it down with the crank bolt. Just make sure you line up the key properly and torque it down, it's a pretty high torque number. You will have to prevent the engine from turning over to do this part, however. I wedged a prybar between the flywheel and garage floor when I did mine. Just be careful to not break the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate.
A cheap steering wheel puller should work just fine, if you already have one, even better! I think I bought one from Autozone for under $20, if I remember correctly though, our balancers require a different thread than what was provided with the puller so I had to go to a hardware store to find the correct bolts. It should take 3 bolts to pull it off nice and square, I believe they are 3-1/2" x 1/4" bolts.
Also, to re-install is fairly easy. Simply put the balancer back on and run it down with the crank bolt. Just make sure you line up the key properly and torque it down, it's a pretty high torque number. You will have to prevent the engine from turning over to do this part, however. I wedged a prybar between the flywheel and garage floor when I did mine. Just be careful to not break the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate.
Im trying to imagine how you wedged the prybar (same during removal?). I believe I have the Harbor Frieght steering wheel puller some damned where. Which way is the bolt threaded?
I wedged the tip of the prybar between the teeth on the flywheel and up against the side of the bellhousing, with the handle on the floor of the garage. Once you start to turn the bolt, the force of you turning should hold the prybar in place. If you have someone there to help hold the prybar, it makes this process a ton easier. I was up and down to reset the prybar a handful of times as it fell out quite a bit. I'd imagine it wouldn't be so bad on an auto if you can wedge it between the torque converter and the flexplate.
They should be your typical right-handed threads. Clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.
I wedged the tip of the prybar between the teeth on the flywheel and up against the side of the bellhousing, with the handle on the floor of the garage. Once you start to turn the bolt, the force of you turning should hold the prybar in place. If you have someone there to help hold the prybar, it makes this process a ton easier. I was up and down to reset the prybar a handful of times as it fell out quite a bit. I'd imagine it wouldn't be so bad on an auto if you can wedge it between the torque converter and the flexplate.
They should be your typical right-handed threads. Clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.
Thanks!
This is still on the to do list as Im now trying to find the source of a vacuum leak. Car still lacks power. I can hear the noise near the throat of the intake. Thought it was the EGR tube, and upon inspection it indeed had a major crack in it. Replaced it with a good one and run and sounds exactly the same... Any ideas what this leak could be?
Isn't much in the way of vacuum line I can even find...
See vids;
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