so my alternator has been sqeaking at a high pitch ever since winter started. i spray WD-40 on the inside of it. if you look at this pic you can see the coil on the inside. just to the right of it there is a space where i spray the wd-40. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk/images/honda-k20-race-alternator.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk/index/honda-k20-race-alterna tor.html&h=300&w=400&sz=15&tbnid=8ETSMktnp7_NrM:&t bnh=90&tbnw=120&hl=en&start=14&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dalternator%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26l r%3D%26sa%3DG but this only works for a day or two then its sqeaking again. is there a way to disassemble it so i can get grease on the shaft so it stops sqeaking??
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how old is it, if you have at or near 100k, i say you better put a new one on it, its trying to tell you its time. WD40 is more of a cleaner then a lub, you should beable to buy grease in a spray can and stray some in there. I put a brand new one on mine the other day when i did my manifold gaskets. I figured what the hell, i had to old one off, and it didnt look to good, so i put a new one on. It was only like 140 dollars, its cheap insurance. The only problem i had with this new one is that it caused my belt to smoke for like 10 seconds when it was going around the pully, but i guess the pully had to break in or something.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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If it's squeaking the bearings are going. Last year when the alternator on my FB started squeaking I changed the bearings and brushes. No problem since.
I've never had to replace an alternator on any car I've ever owned. Always rebuilt my own.
2 brushes @ $2.00 ea
1 fwd bearing @ $20.00
1 rear bearing @ 6.00
TOTAL $30.00 (That's in Canadian $$, should be cheaper for you with US $$.
If you want to know how to do it get ahold of a GM Service Manual. Has a great step by step procedure. Not sure about the Hayes or Chiltons manuals.
DZ
DZNow Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
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I've heard that WD-40 Eats bearings2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!
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Yup, short term solution at best. If the dust seal is in good shape it shouldn't affect much. but if the seal is slightly worn, enough to let the WD-40 get past the dust/moisture seal, it will thin out the grease, and then the grease gets out past the seal. The resulting lack of grease accelerates the wear.Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
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Originally posted by 97burnout:
If you go through napa its like 120 exchange and it has a lifetime warranty... Just changed mine a month ago
i guess i will have to pretend its the whine of a supercharger until it gets fixed. lol
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