3.4 idle prob

[pontiac nino]

It's pretty weird, the car runs smoothly even when im driving around at different speeds. But if I stop and let the car idle for like 2-3 minutes it sets a light(ses) and runs a little rich, it goes away thought if I rev the engine up to 2k rpms then let it fall back down to normal idle the light clears immediately, WTF? It comes back when it's on idle for that long and goes away every time I do this. Any suggestions would help please. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ December 07, 2004, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: pontiac nino ]

[BLLDOGG]

i cant believe i even have to say something to you. go to autozone and scan that thing [img]smile.gif[/img]

if you like, i can shoot the problem by my auto teacher and see what he says but that wont be until monday :\

[ December 03, 2004, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: BLLDOGG ]

[pontiac nino]

Hehe :D , I have obd1 with a 16 pin connection, Autozone won't scan it if it requires the car to be turned on, they don't have the good type of equipment.
Couple of months back I took it to a an auto electrician, I was told it was a fautlty O2 sensor, I bought 2 last night and still the same prob.

Here's a list of everything that is NEW o2's, coils, wires, TPS, Thermostat, Temp. sensor and control module(ecm), EGR. TB has been cleaned now even the IAC housing, im thinking it could be the IAC but I don't wanna waste more cash and be wrong again.
It's weird i've never heard of anyone having a problem like this.
BLLDOGG typed more than one sentece? :eek: j/k
Thanks

[l1tech]

you could just jump pins a&b on the diag connector and count the flashes of the check engine light to see what the code is and go from there...why did you have an auto electrician look at it...that's like having an optometrist look at your teeth...why did he say you needed an o2 sensor

[pontiac nino]

The a&b connector thing that you speak of would be really cool, but it only works on the obd1 systems that have a 12 pin connection, the 16 pin was for obd2 so my car is a little more difficult to check, im kinda screwed there. :(
The reason I took it to an auto electrician is because, their main focus is on electrical car stuff like sensors, engine harnesses, circuitry shorts, etc. and could give me better input than someone who just builds up engines for a living. Only other people who can have the equipment to diagnose stuff like this would be the dealership which im afraid im gonna have to go.

[l1tech]

your system is early obd2, some gm vehicles had obd2 as early as 93, it can be scanned with obd2 software, I do it on a daily basis, go to a GOOD independant shop and have them look at it for you, there is nothing special that the dealer can do that a good shop can't. To bad you don't live here. What codes did you get the last time the car was checked??

[pontiac nino]

95 3.8 - OBD2
95 3.4 - OBD1 :(

[l1tech]

look at pin #2 in your diag connector, if it has a wire in the cavity it can be grounded and the mil will flash trouble codes with the key on and the engine off, if it doesn't have a wire in the cavity then it needs a scanner to retreive the codes...any obd2 scanner will work but it requires more than a monkey at @#%$zone to do it, you never did mention what the original trouble code was

[pontiac nino]

Sorry I don't remember the code, just that it had to do with the drivers side O2 bank not responding.
I think I might have fixed it thought. [img]smile.gif[/img]
I took off the IAC today and noticed that the pintle was dirty as a mofo, so I took out the carb cleaner and cleaned it very well to the point that you can see it shine again, while I did that I took a peak inside the pintle housing and it look way worse than a dirty egr. I put it back on and it seems to idle a bit smoother now and so far it hasn't thrown a code. :D
Thanks