Hey folks. I installed the 160* stat the other day and I thought all was well. I was driveing on the freeway and only for about a mile or so I took my ride up to aprox. 115mph, I had some open lane ahead, Anyways all of asudden My temp. guage went to 0 and I heard this awfall sound from the front of the car. I reduced speed back to 80 and exited a few miles down the way. I checked under hood and didn't see any coolant or oil that might have sprung, Also my temp fans wont stop running. Even the next morning when I first stated car my fans were already on. also the next morning I check radiator and still full and no visable leaks. Just my guage and temp fans acting wrong. Can anyone give this stupid guy any advise please. ride on bros. Gman211203
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160*hypertech power stat ?
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i had the same problem with that damn thermostat as well. Whats happenning is that its getting stuck shut so coolant cant cycle through. Put your old thermostat back in. Dont drive your bird or camaro until you do. At first, when you start the car the fans will be going and all, but the car will be functioning normally pretty shortly.\'02 W68 Pewter Metallic Firebird-RKSport Headers, Catco 3\" cat, SLP Loudmouth, Fast Toys ram air, K&N, !Air Silencer, shaved airbox lid, SLP fan switch, BMR strut tower brace
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a friends car did this. apearently there is a resister that will compinaste for it but I don;t really trust that. From what I ear the 180 will not do that. I would backa 180 with a manual fan swicth instead of the 160 and resister. With some ses codes it will set a fail safe and run the fans all the time to prevent damadge that may ocur. WHen you clear the codes this will stop1996 Silver camaro Z28. M6,<br />12 bolt, 4.11\'s, posi, Rear cover, Spec stage 2, loudmouth, more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1</a> <Mods, Pics & more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2</a> <Fbody Tech Articals
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don't waste money on the 160* 'stat. just get a manual fan switch.\'98 Camaro - SOLD<br />Best E/T: 15.489 @ 86.48 MPH<br />60\': 2.131<br /><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/skorpion317\" target=\"_blank\">members.cardomain.com/skorpion317 </a><br />1998 Saturn SL2<br />Official <a href=\"http://www.njdisturbance.com\" target=\"_blank\">NJ Disturbance</a> bracket racer
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Thanks bros, I think I'll go with the 180*stat but as far as the fans, The hypertec program was working to kick them on and off as needed, But what I dont understand is why this happen. Basicaly the 160*stat is just messing me up, Thanks, I'll put the stock back in a order the other one and see what up. ride on bros gman211203member.cardomain.com/gman211203
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in some years you get a nasty ses light/no temp gauge issue. The only way around it is a resister in the IAT connector. However this is generaly not a great Idea.
as for a manual switch I have some parts left over from one I biult for a friend. if you would like me to make you one shoot me an email and I can give you more info.
Or there are a few companys that make them1996 Silver camaro Z28. M6,<br />12 bolt, 4.11\'s, posi, Rear cover, Spec stage 2, loudmouth, more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1</a> <Mods, Pics & more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2</a> <Fbody Tech Articals
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i took my 160 out and went back to a 180New:04 GMC Sierra 1500 RCLB 4x4 5.3 GU80 3.73\'s.<br />Truck pics<br />Mods<br />Go fast: Panel K&N filter and soon SS truck catback.<br />Appearance: Stull Billet grill,Weston Chrome step tubes,Rhino Chrome hitch step,ARE painted fiberglass cover,Silver star lighting.
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I've been running the 160* thremostat in mine for about a year now and haven't had any problems with it except for the fact that it takes about 5min-forever to warm up in the winter time and the temp normally gets up to 200-205 in grid-lock during the summer time(no manual fan switch). If you want a 160* thermo you might as well remove the Thermo, the 160 is open allowing water to run freely after warm up. Give it a day trial to make sure that you don't over heat or possibly throw a code? But then again the 180* Thermo is probably the best bet. I'm stumped as far as the noise and temp gauge? [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img] <-- me poking my brain?BLAHHHH!<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/chris98\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/chris98</a>
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yes but do you want to run your AC during the winter just to lower the motor temp not to mention its a waist of gas. also, you can run your AC at the track so the AC theory isnt the answer
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I had the 160* and had no trouble with it, except my car burned quite a bit more gas and took longer to heat up, which is not too great in the wintertime. So I went back up to a 180*, added Water Wetter to the coolant, installed a SLP manual fan switch, and programmed the car for a 180* stat with the HPP3. Now it pretty much hangs around 180-185* all the time.2000 3.8L Firebird, Silver Metallic<br /><br />\"Yes, London. You know, fish, chips, cup o\' tea, bad food, worse weather, Mary f***in\' Poppins, London!!\"
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Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
yes but do you want to run your AC during the winter just to lower the motor temp not to mention its a waist of gas. also, you can run your AC at the track so the AC theory isnt the answer
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So Memphis, now that your temp is around 180, does your guage actually show it? Anyone know if the temp guage is actually controlled by the temp sender or is it controlled by the computer? I've seen posts before that the temp guage may be like a "dummy guage", I know mine (on a 2002) gets up to just under 210 and then never moves.2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock
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