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this is from super chevy's "Camaro Peformers" magazine. The article is "LS1 do's and don'ts", but i figured the advice is good and applies to v6's as well:
1. Do: Subframe Connectors - F-bodies aren't the stiffest cars from the factory. It's a good idea to reinforce the chassis.
2. Do: Hi-Flo Airlid or K&N FIPK - these only had a few HP at first, but as more mods are added, the additional airflow increases the gains.
3. Don't: Port the Stock MAF - i don't know if anybody does this to the 3800, but on the LS1 a ported MAF doesn't read the airflow coming in and makes the PCM think the car is running lean, so it retards the ignition timing.
4. Don't: Larger Throttle Body - unless you're making serious power, don't change the TB at all.
5. Do: Cat-back Exhaust - same as Airlid or K&N FIPK. only worth a few HP at first, but it starts to pay off as more mods are added.
6. Don't: Go Nuts with Exhaust - don't go any larger than 3" pipes. Don't run open headers, and cutouts aren't great either. the engine likes a little backpressure. just go with a low-restriction 3" system.
7. Do: Long-Tube headers - i don't think they even make these for our cars. they do recommend having at least 1.75" tubes and 3" collectors, though. sounds like RKSport....
8. Don't: Platinum Tip spark plugs - on a turbo'd, supercharged, or nitrous'd car. Platinum plugs get hot and stay hot, which leads to detonation. use colder, conventional-tip plugs. good choices for turbo/superchargers are NGK's TR6 plugs, for nitrous get the TR5's.
9. Do: Upgrade the valvetrain - the valvetrain on the LS1 is a weak spot. it can't handle too many high revs.
10. Don't: delete any torque management tables or knock protection - idk if we v6'ers have this, we probably do. if you're PCM tuning, don't delete these.
11. Do: Be careful with compression - i don't know how many people raise the compression on their 6-cyls. if you're planning on forced induction, the combo of high compression and FI will kill the engine.
12. Don't: Use a 160* thermo without a manual fan switch - I've been saying this over and over again. Unless you have the computer re-calibrated to turn the fans on at a lower temp, the 160* thermo doesn't do anything. the fans will continue to operate as if the stock thermo is in place. Use a manual fan switch instead.
13. Don't: Over-cam your blower motor - if you're turbo/supercharging your car, don't have a cam with too much duration or overlap. it's ok to have higher lift, but don't overdo it.
14. Don't: negelect the fuel system - if you're staying N/A, your stock system should be fine. if you're going the FI or nitrous route, you must upgrade your fuel pump and injectors.
15. Do: High Stall Converter - always a good idea for automatic cars. the LS1 guys say around 3,300 is good, idk about us v6'ers. the 'verter should be lockup-capable.
16. Do: Short-throw shifter - i have an automatic, so i don't know if they make short-throws for the T-5s. if they do, go for it. short-throws give you better control, shorter shift times, and they prevent the shift forks from breaking or bending.
17. Do: Ring and Pinion gears - LS1s can go all-out with 4.10s on 6-spds and 3.73s on automatics. 3.73s on v6's are probably the furthest you can go if you want the best performance. 4.10s in a 6-cyl are ok until 4th gear hits, and then the car falls flat on its face. 3.42s or 3.73s are a good idea. don't forget an LSD, if your car didn't come with it already.
18. Do: Drag Radials - if you're putting out a lot of power, traction is a big part of dropping your times. get the drag radials and watch your ET drop.
hope this helps some people out!
1. Do: Subframe Connectors - F-bodies aren't the stiffest cars from the factory. It's a good idea to reinforce the chassis.
2. Do: Hi-Flo Airlid or K&N FIPK - these only had a few HP at first, but as more mods are added, the additional airflow increases the gains.
3. Don't: Port the Stock MAF - i don't know if anybody does this to the 3800, but on the LS1 a ported MAF doesn't read the airflow coming in and makes the PCM think the car is running lean, so it retards the ignition timing.
4. Don't: Larger Throttle Body - unless you're making serious power, don't change the TB at all.
5. Do: Cat-back Exhaust - same as Airlid or K&N FIPK. only worth a few HP at first, but it starts to pay off as more mods are added.
6. Don't: Go Nuts with Exhaust - don't go any larger than 3" pipes. Don't run open headers, and cutouts aren't great either. the engine likes a little backpressure. just go with a low-restriction 3" system.
7. Do: Long-Tube headers - i don't think they even make these for our cars. they do recommend having at least 1.75" tubes and 3" collectors, though. sounds like RKSport....
8. Don't: Platinum Tip spark plugs - on a turbo'd, supercharged, or nitrous'd car. Platinum plugs get hot and stay hot, which leads to detonation. use colder, conventional-tip plugs. good choices for turbo/superchargers are NGK's TR6 plugs, for nitrous get the TR5's.
9. Do: Upgrade the valvetrain - the valvetrain on the LS1 is a weak spot. it can't handle too many high revs.
10. Don't: delete any torque management tables or knock protection - idk if we v6'ers have this, we probably do. if you're PCM tuning, don't delete these.
11. Do: Be careful with compression - i don't know how many people raise the compression on their 6-cyls. if you're planning on forced induction, the combo of high compression and FI will kill the engine.
12. Don't: Use a 160* thermo without a manual fan switch - I've been saying this over and over again. Unless you have the computer re-calibrated to turn the fans on at a lower temp, the 160* thermo doesn't do anything. the fans will continue to operate as if the stock thermo is in place. Use a manual fan switch instead.
13. Don't: Over-cam your blower motor - if you're turbo/supercharging your car, don't have a cam with too much duration or overlap. it's ok to have higher lift, but don't overdo it.
14. Don't: negelect the fuel system - if you're staying N/A, your stock system should be fine. if you're going the FI or nitrous route, you must upgrade your fuel pump and injectors.
15. Do: High Stall Converter - always a good idea for automatic cars. the LS1 guys say around 3,300 is good, idk about us v6'ers. the 'verter should be lockup-capable.
16. Do: Short-throw shifter - i have an automatic, so i don't know if they make short-throws for the T-5s. if they do, go for it. short-throws give you better control, shorter shift times, and they prevent the shift forks from breaking or bending.
17. Do: Ring and Pinion gears - LS1s can go all-out with 4.10s on 6-spds and 3.73s on automatics. 3.73s on v6's are probably the furthest you can go if you want the best performance. 4.10s in a 6-cyl are ok until 4th gear hits, and then the car falls flat on its face. 3.42s or 3.73s are a good idea. don't forget an LSD, if your car didn't come with it already.
18. Do: Drag Radials - if you're putting out a lot of power, traction is a big part of dropping your times. get the drag radials and watch your ET drop.
hope this helps some people out!
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