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**Dan Vincent** · 06-05-2004, 08:22 PM

Voltage regulator? Although I thought it was part of the alt on our cars... what about the wiring? Dirty batt terminals?

**Razzer** · 06-05-2004, 08:24 PM

Check the ouput of the alt in amps and volts right off the unit while the car is running. The voltage should be 13.6-14.4vdc, the currect for a car just ideling should be around 40amps or so, turn on the stereo and the head lights, the voltage shouldn't change but the current should be pushed up past 65+ amps. Also check for corroded battery terminals and on the back on the alt and connections.

**Razzer** · 06-05-2004, 08:25 PM

Also try having the car load tested at a automotive store, I like Autozone, have them also test the battery and the alt in the car.

**pontiac nino** · 06-05-2004, 08:29 PM

I don't think thats the problems guys since this has been occuring for a good while now.

311 I still say it might have something to do w/ the pullies, can it be that you're having slippage problems w/ the belt?

nino

**96firebird311** · 06-05-2004, 09:31 PM

Voltage regulator? Although I thought it was part of the alt on our cars... what about the wiring? Dirty batt terminals?

Yes, it is on the back of the alt. All that wiring has been checked several times.

Check the ouput of the alt in amps and volts right off the unit while the car is running. The voltage should be 13.6-14.4vdc, the currect for a car just ideling should be around 40amps or so, turn on the stereo and the head lights, the voltage shouldn't change but the current should be pushed up past 65+ amps. Also check for corroded battery terminals and on the back on the alt and connections.

Also try having the car load tested at a automotive store, I like Autozone, have them also test the battery and the alt in the car.

I really don't mean to be rude, but did you guys even read the post? The alt has already been professionally load tested. Voltage does NOT drop with everything on. However, the gauge still dips badly. And yes, the gauge is reading correctly. Like I said, lights dim and I lose power steering. Voltage is indeed dipping.

311 I still say it might have something to do w/ the pullies, can it be that you're having slippage problems w/ the belt?

Before the alt was tested, I tried to make the belt tensioner tight as hell. I also sprayed some "non-slip" belt stuff on all the pullies. No change. Now that the alt has been tested, I KNOW I'm not getting any belt slippage. If I was, the alt output would be fluctuating. The output was VERY steady.

**Dan Vincent** · 06-05-2004, 10:29 PM

I meant wiring as in battery cables... could there be a ground or short issue?

**CAMAROWIDBASS** · 06-05-2004, 10:54 PM

I assume you have done the basic 3?

Alt to (+)
Chassis to ( - )
Engine to ( - )

**kamarozrule** · 06-06-2004, 03:42 PM

this topic has been beaten to death, and no solution. . . yet. . .

**Turbo V6 Camaro** · 06-06-2004, 03:50 PM

umm

the power steering runs off the belt. not power, if you lose power steering then your car is off (not likly) or your belt is slipping

**RallyRed 98** · 06-06-2004, 03:51 PM

do you have the same problem when you accelerate or give it gas?

Voltage does NOT drop with everything on. However, the gauge still dips badly. And yes, the gauge is reading correctly. Like I said, lights dim and I lose power steering. Voltage is indeed dipping.

i'm a little confused by this part...

**96firebird311** · 06-06-2004, 05:06 PM

Originally posted by RallyRed 98:
do you have the same problem when you accelerate or give it gas?

Yes. Actually, the gauge dips a little just from accelerating. That is a small extra pull of current and my gauge shows it. To recap, I get my highest readings sitting in my driveway in park.

Originally posted by RallyRed 98:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> Voltage does NOT drop with everything on. However, the gauge still dips badly. And yes, the gauge is reading correctly. Like I said, lights dim and I lose power steering. Voltage is indeed dipping.

i'm a little confused by this part... </font>[/QUOTE]I was referring to the readings on the load tester. The tester showed the my alt was indeed outputing everything that it should under a load. Voltage WAS STEADY even while I pressed brakes, A/C,radio, etc. THE ALT IS GOOD! I am VERY sure the entire charging system checks good. It's something from the batt out to the rest of the car. Batt terminal are very secure. All wiring has been upgraded, although that should NOT be an issue with the stereo off. All stock accessories on stock wire gauge should not be a problem. But anyway, yes wiring had been upgraded. [img]smile.gif[/img] It really sounds like somthing is just pulling WAY more current that it should be. No popped fuses though....Again, if the belt was slipping, the output on the alt would fluctuate.

[ June 06, 2004, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: 96firebird311 ]

**kamarozrule** · 06-06-2004, 06:04 PM

yo 96f we went thru all this a couple of momths ago, i have the same problem, hopefully this time around we'll figure this out.

**RallyRed 98** · 06-06-2004, 11:50 PM

so your battery holds charge fine...

argh, and your stereo is always in a "full off" position? i know some amps cannot be turned completely off, but i doubt you would buy a cheapo thing like that. i used to have a very similar problem with my IROC; i ended up having some kind of short in the heater where it was always on. killed my battery, though.

the only thing i would think to check is the voltage regulator, but it sounds like you have basically eliminated that. are you using the battery's leads for power to your stereo or the "aux" post over on the right hand side of the motor? maybe either that or your power to your stereo is shorting somewhere; wouldn't matter if it's "off" because i assume you have all the amps and things that REALLY draw power not using head unit power.

other than those two ideas, i'm stumped.

**96firebird311** · 06-07-2004, 12:24 AM

Originally posted by RallyRed 98:
argh, and your stereo is always in a "full off" position? i know some amps cannot be turned completely off, but i doubt you would buy a cheapo thing like that. i used to have a very similar problem with my IROC; i ended up having some kind of short in the heater where it was always on. killed my battery, though.

the only thing i would think to check is the voltage regulator, but it sounds like you have basically eliminated that. are you using the battery's leads for power to your stereo or the "aux" post over on the right hand side of the motor? maybe either that or your power to your stereo is shorting somewhere; wouldn't matter if it's "off" because i assume you have all the amps and things that REALLY draw power not using head unit power.

Yes, my amps turn on and off with my headunit. Voltage regulator is attached to the rear of the alt. It has been tested and is good. I have 1/0awg running off the alt to the batt top post. 1/0awg also connected to the top post out to the stereo. 1/0awg ground off the batt top post. THEN I have the regular batt harnesses for the rest of the car on the side posts. Today, I threw the car on the lift and followed the power wire to the starter. End to end. Both connections are rock solid and measured VERY little voltage drop across the wire. I also measured less then .05V drop from top post to that + terminal cup next to batt. This is getting out of hand. I'm about 2 days away from taking this ^&*%$ to the dealer. :(

Announcement

HELP! Voltage problems. NOT alt or batt.----

HELP! Voltage problems. NOT alt or batt.----

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