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Can you guys help me to decide on some non-expensive ($50-$200) mods I can do to my bird.
any kind of mod that will make hp, traction, torque etc. Names and prices aswell please.
look at my sig and you can see what I already have and what i should get. I get bored very easily and spring is around the corner so the bird will be back on the road!!!
Thanx
94 3.4L A4 white t-tops<br />moroso cai<br />3\"hi-flow pacestter exhaust<br />b&m shift kit<br />catco cat<br />01 T/A rear w/ 3.73\'s and posi<br />1 pc aluminum ds<br />blacked out signals
Sway bars will give you alot less body roll... not sure if you are looking for flat out suspension mods... the 21mm rear sway bar will help you hook a little better as well.
definite cheap easy mod thats worth it, exspecially if you are on your stock one is a 1LE tranny mount, or a poly one(some say they vibrate some say they don't) I got a 1LE becasue its not as stiff as a poly one and I am already a little hard on my drivetrain.
Poly torque arm bushing cut about a tenth off my 60' which helps in the 1/4, but its a little bit of a pain to install, luckily had the guy that did my tranny do it for free.
And LSD is just plain fun [img]smile.gif[/img] and helps you hook a little better at the track.
Also (on my car) lets your tires wear a little more evenly instead of the right ones oging out before the left ones.
by the way on the 1Le tranny mount, I would get it form www.gmpartsdirect.com, instead of SLP, it costs like $5 more, but I got mine 2-3 days later, SLP I have watied 5 weeks for parts, and I have heard many others have problems with them as well.
SLP is good if you call them instead of ordering off the webpage. I called and got my stuff in less than a week, and then ordered something on the web and got it in like 3 weeks.
Suspension mods wont make you go faster unless you do a lot of cornering.
1999 C5<br />2000 Ford Lightning<br /><i>Don\'t hate me because I\'m awesome</i>
The SLP 1LE tranny mounts are on backorder right now for some reason. You could always go with the poly tranny mount and torque arm bushing though. The suspension and drivetrain mods like this will not add horsepower to the engine, but instead help deliver all of the power to the ground. It will make the car more powerful in the long run due to decreasing drivetrain loss.
[ February 04, 2003: Message edited by: viper98885 ]</p>
- Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251: not necessarily, Suspension mods will help you hook better... thus allowing a harder launch and better times.
I mean how else do I get a 4 grand launch and hook on street tires [img]smile.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>
Well... depends on the suspension mod... removing the front sway bar will help you launch...
The bigger the swaybars the better you will corner... the smaller the front swaybar the better you'll launch. Also, with a bigger swaybar your ride will be stiffer. I have a WS6 swaybar in my '84 which I got from an '88 formula it is 36mm where as the original was 32mm there was a big difference in cornering when I swapped them. I plan to put it in my '97 next. I also drove around for a week without a swaybar just to see what it was like... it was totally controllable, kinda mushy and certainly not a road racing setup but I could feel the tires sticking better.
The rear swaybar can be as big as you want, the whole point of taking the front swaybar off is to make the weight transfer better... more power to the rear = better trection = better ET
[ February 04, 2003: Message edited by: ChillPhatCat ]</p>
Black \'97 Camaro RS <a href=\"http://chillcat.fortunecity.net/blahblah.html\" target=\"_blank\">See Pics</a> 3.8L, 5 Spd, Disc Rear, Hurst short shifter, MAF Screen Removed, RK Sport Headers, 3\" Cat, 3\" FM American Thunder Catback, Compcams .512/.507, (2x)275/40/17 Khumo 712(front) (2x)285/40/17 Good Year F1 GS-D3 (back).
Bigger front sway bar = better cornering you have to lift the fornt wheels more not jsut nose of the car.
Bigger rear sway bar, allows the rear wheels to be more "flat" which doesn't matter a whole much unless you have LSD.
Lower control arms will help you corner and hook better, also avoids wheelhop, but poly bushings under hard cornering will bind and may give you a little bit of snap oversteer, causeing the car to be a little less predictable in a corner.
a stiffer or aftermarket torque arm will help you both corner and laucnh better buy helping the car get the power to the ground.
Lowering/stiffer srpings will make it harder to launch by not letting the car to squat as easily, and makes weight transfer more difficult, but lowers your center of gravity allowing less sway in a turn along with better srping rates will help keep all 4 wheels planted to the ground.
A poly torque arm bushing will help keep the torque arm from flexing as much at the bushing, and will also help keep the rear end planted.
A stiffer tranny mount will allow less power loss in the initial jolt ot the tranny, doubt you can see this on a A$, but on a 5-speed, with an older mount, if you have the clutch in and jump on the gas you will see the shifter jump, so some of the energy form the motor is going to work to move the tranny on the ols stock rubber mount, with a 1Le or poly one, the energy is transfered to the wheels with the rest of the power, allowing a little bit more power at launch and between shifts.
That jsut some quick info off the top of my head...
This is great info...I now can actually make choices as what to do first. It sounds to me that all everything mentioned is pretty safe to do even if you have high milage which works out great for me. Thanks a million guys.
Chris
94 3.4L A4 white t-tops<br />moroso cai<br />3\"hi-flow pacestter exhaust<br />b&m shift kit<br />catco cat<br />01 T/A rear w/ 3.73\'s and posi<br />1 pc aluminum ds<br />blacked out signals
How hard/expensive are these mods going to be to install? Is there an order in which i should do or if I do 1 thing then i should do another at the same time?
94 3.4L A4 white t-tops<br />moroso cai<br />3\"hi-flow pacestter exhaust<br />b&m shift kit<br />catco cat<br />01 T/A rear w/ 3.73\'s and posi<br />1 pc aluminum ds<br />blacked out signals
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