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  • SECURITY light keeps going on

    For some reason, recently my security light randomly keeps going off/on even when im driving. I dont think i have the factory alarm installed, i do have the viper alarm active, with auto start and keyless remote entry.

    I think these SECURITY LIGHT episodes began since, i dented my right side.
    This morning for example i put the key into egnition and the security light goes off. And i cant start the car for 3 minz.. Then i put the key in again in 3 minz and the same thing happend. must have waited 20 minz before car started.
    Im pretty sure its not the damaged chip on the key that makes it go off, since this happens even with autostart, and with the other key i have.

    If any one experienced this problem...
    97 Firebird <br />Flowmaster series 80 Muffler,<br />3\" Highflow Cat, <br />3\" CatBack, <br />20% Tints All around.<br />2.5\" dual out (soon quad stainless steel-from fasttoys)

  • #2
    You do have the factory alarm. The shock sensor is located in the pass 1/4 panel by the spare tire. You might want to check for it.
    2002 M5 Bright Metallic Silver <br />*Fully loaded and modded<br /><br />2005 GSXR 750<br />*Micron Serpent Race Exhaust *K&N Filter *Power Commander *Trying to hit 200 MPH!<br /><br />1970 SS 454 Chevelle Cortez Silver<br />*It can pass anything but a gas station

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    • #3
      i checked near the spare tier, all i have there is a multicolor wire, with a jack, but no sensor?

      what does it mean?
      97 Firebird <br />Flowmaster series 80 Muffler,<br />3\" Highflow Cat, <br />3\" CatBack, <br />20% Tints All around.<br />2.5\" dual out (soon quad stainless steel-from fasttoys)

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      • #4
        I just experienced the same thing, however, after about a month of my security light randomly coming on, my car refused to start. I mean it did nothing (let it sit over night at work). I had it towed to Pep Boys and they said that they could not fix the problem (Cost to me $33.00) and that the dealership would have to make the repairs. I had the car towed to the dealership (prepare to get raped).

        The dealership informed me that my Ignition Cylinder had gone bad, not sending a signal to the computer to start(small section where the key is inserted. Ended up costing me $319.00, which included 2 keys @ $30.00 a piece.

        I HIGHLY recommend you get that checked out. I now think that when your security light comes on and goes off without warning that the car is telling you there is trouble ahead.

        Hope this helps

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        • #5
          You might want to check with a lock smith, and see if they can rebuild the ignition cylinder. The system just uses a voltage through the chip in the key (the chip is actually a resistor), so it should be fixable. It may just need the contacts cleaned. I advise having a locksmith do it, because they stand a better chance of not messing it up when they are taking it apart. And, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the dealer, who will just replace the whole assembly, rather than repair it.
          Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350

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          • #6
            I'm still under warranty and I'm going later today to get that problem fixed. I'll post as to what was the cause after I get back.

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            • #7
              MAKE SURE YOUR KEY IS DRY. This happened to my mom and I once at a truck stop 250 miles from home ... the key was wet from hand-washing, ye ole Aurora wouldn't start for a while, just the security light. Before you shell out $500, make sure your key and the cylinder are dry and clean, and that the shock sensor and body control module are ok. AND IT COULD TAKE 10 MINS + To reset, so keep that in mind before you tow.
              -Rob
              <b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP

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              • #8
                When your car refused to start at work, was the "SECURITY" light on? Or was it just dead?

                I read a previouse post by another member, who had their security randomly on, he sais he fixed the problem by taking apart the steering column , locating the securty wire that connects to the egnition key sensor. The wire he sais was damaged, due to age and was a very common problem that gave off wrong signal when u hit a bump or made a sharp turn or whatever.. turning on your "security ilght"..

                He fixed the damaged security cable and the problem went away. He also warned about going to dealer, were they will rape you, and tell you "YOULL HAVE TO REPLACE THE PASS II" system. while its just a damaged wire.
                97 Firebird <br />Flowmaster series 80 Muffler,<br />3\" Highflow Cat, <br />3\" CatBack, <br />20% Tints All around.<br />2.5\" dual out (soon quad stainless steel-from fasttoys)

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nyclaidback:
                  I read a previouse post by another member, who had their security randomly on<hr></blockquote>
                  Your car is insecure. It just really needs a hug. [img]graemlins/love.gif[/img] I think the security light comes on when you turn the key to the ON position to make sure the bulb works. If it doesn't start, it might be something else, like low voltage to the alarm. I'd pull the alarm fuse(disarm it first!) and see if it still does it.
                  \'94 Camaro 3.4<br />\"No, Starvin Marvin. That\'s my pot pie.\"

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                  • #10
                    clean the chip on your key with some alkie
                    2001 SOM Camaro SS<p>Direct flo lid---Lakewood LCAs----Edelbrock Torque Arm-----Lous Short Stick---Dynomouth 3\" Exhaust---SLP Center Mount Exhaust---Poly tranny and torque arm mounts.<p>My site....http://community.webshots.com/album/49413018hRfdbP

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                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nyclaidback:
                      When your car refused to start at work, was the "SECURITY" light on? Or was it just dead?

                      I read a previouse post by another member, who had their security randomly on, he sais he fixed the problem by taking apart the steering column , locating the securty wire that connects to the egnition key sensor. The wire he sais was damaged, due to age and was a very common problem that gave off wrong signal when u hit a bump or made a sharp turn or whatever.. turning on your "security ilght"..

                      He fixed the damaged security cable and the problem went away. He also warned about going to dealer, were they will rape you, and tell you "YOULL HAVE TO REPLACE THE PASS II" system. while its just a damaged wire.
                      <hr></blockquote>

                      That post was made by me.

                      PLEASE DO NOT REPLACE IGNITION! i can almost 10000000% guarentee its the lil orange wire. Make a search for my post titled security problem i believe.

                      If im not mistaken i spoke to you over IM, if not, please search for the post and head to a REPUTABLE mechanic and explain the situation to him.

                      Good LUCK

                      [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
                      <a href=\"http://www.pbase.com/danny83/car_pix\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.pbase.com/danny83/root</a><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/ttopbird96\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/ttopbird96</a> [/URL]<br />00 NMB Formula M6<br />323.4HP, 336.5TQ<br />Lid, Filter, Cutout, all else stock :)<p>\"Let the modding begin!\"

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                      • #12
                        Mines having the same problem. Does anyone have any technical data on replacing this wire?

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                        • #13
                          how to take apart the console, gauge of wire to use, how to get to the wire, sodder it or crimp it, etc.

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                          • #14
                            Here's what I had to say about it in another thread:

                            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Silvachris1:
                            No No No No No! I had the same problem with mine, and assumed that it was the key going bad. Incorrect assuption and it cost me 27 bucks for a new key. The PASS KeyII ignition switch has two contact points inside that touch the chip on the key. On the back side of the switch is a tiny openeing where two white wires run into the switch and go to the contacts. One of your wires is only hangin on by thread. Everytime you turn the switch, the broken wire is prolly barely touching and still working, but ocassionaly it doesn't have enough contact to make a complete circuit. The way PASS KeyII works is that your ignition key has a resistor chip in it and your switch measures the resistance. If the resistance is incorrect, the car wont start. I don't know if that is due to the ignition switch or if it is due to the computer or what. Anyway, here's a picture of my previous ignition switch. http://speed.supercars.net/avatars/17878.jpg You can see where the broken wire was, it snapped down in a recessed area of the switch. I took a X-ACTO knife and stripped the broken wire down in the recessed area and then stripped the othere end of the boken wire, and filled the recess with super glue ans pushed the two stripped ends together. After it set, I checked with an OHM Meter to see if contact was being made around the whole switch. Tadaa. It worked. So now I have a spare. It's VAT 4, just incase your curious. The list price on a new ignition switch is 56 dollars from the shop that replaced mine. The Ignition Switch, Master Key, two Ignition Keys, and all the labor was 276 dollars. Waaay too much in my opinion, they charged for testing the switch after they installed it. Anyway, that's my story, anybody feel free to correct my if I made a mistake about the way PASS Key works or whatever, cause I've been typing a long time and who knows.<hr></blockquote>

                            There ya go.
                            ~Chris<br />1999 Hugger Orange Camaro<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836</a> <br /><br />†…faith…hope

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                            • #15
                              i had the same problem with mine and the security light kept on flashing and i wiggled the battery cables and then it stopped flashing since ...it was only a bad connection....just my opinion

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