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  • What can I do for 30-40 more hp?

    Yesterday at the track I was more impressed by my losses than my wins. I was only 2 1/2 car lengths behind a LT1 Z28 that had a Hypertech chip and maybe a couple of other things, I was 2-3 car lengths(several races) behind a LT1 T/A depending on our launch. All he has was a Flowmaster muffler had his syncro going out in 2nd but got it to shift on the last race where I spun and he put 3 car lengths on me. Also a new GT put about the same 3 along with a 5.0 that was stock other than a cold air kit. I was quit shocked about the 5.0 who told me what he runs which was .3 faster than I run.

    So if 10hp is about .1 and a car length is about .1, I really want 30-40 more hp. I'm changing plugs and wires after I run through some Sea Foam along with getting new tires to help be consistent on my launch. I'm getting the TB Spacer/TB coolant bypass but don't expect to feel any gain from any of those. Single digit hp gain from all of them combined.
    What kind of gains will the MAF Translator make over the Jet Chip stage 2? I heard that there was a way to build this maybe rather than buying one, is that true?

    How much weight reduction translates to .1? I know I need to lose about 10lbs in the gut area and might ditch the back seat but I don't really care to go much further than that unless it's something I don't need.

    Don't suggest nitrous or internal work, I want to stay NA with stock motor. I like telling people that it's just a V6 with a little intake, exhaust and a chip that doesn't do anything. It's just because it's red, red ones go faster.
    1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

  • #2
    You want an instant +30hp? One word: CAM

    If you have all your intake and exhaust mods done to their fullest, you'll get your horsepower. Otherwise, MAFT+ is your best bet, probably with 100 octane you could gain 20hp? I'm not sure as I've never used one - but Magnus gained a lot with his!
    2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
    Details: www.1lev6.com

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    • #3
      I'm not looking for anything instant, it can be a combination of a couple of things. It took the FTRA, 3" S pipe and taking off the cat to gain the last .3 in the quarter.

      Actually I am a little interested if a cam alone would give me 30hp. Would I have to have the computer costom programed? What else has to be replaced/upgraded with a cam swap? I really don't want to void out the 1,500 miles of waranty that I have left though if possible.
      1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

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      • #4
        10 lbs= 1 HP

        Thought that might help

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        • #5
          what about more gear? like a 3.73 or 4.10.

          lighter wheels/skinnies will help too.
          \'01 TA with boltons, cam <b>11.28@119.72 (1.49)</b><br />\'97 Tahoe LT 4x4- stock

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          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Originally posted by Dominic:
            Otherwise, MAFT+ is your best bet, probably with 100 octane you could gain 20hp? I'm not sure as I've never used one <hr></blockquote>

            That will not help him for what his mods are. And the higher the octane does not give you more horsepower, it just lowers the detonation threshold.

            30-40hp without internal work, nitrous, or forced induction maybe difficult. I'd say get higher gears like a 3.73. I wouldn't bother removing your seats. I'd look into getting some supersix heads/cam. It will still be a V6.
            <b>99\' Black Camaro SS</b> <br />M6/T-Tops - SLPLid w/K&N | Hurst Billet Plus w/ LSS | EGR Mod<p>Black 97\' Camaro T-Tops (RIP)

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            • #7
              Fasttoys ram air would give you a litte boost not much but some.
              1999 Firebird Black<br />A4 3.08 gears<br />Mods: Carbon Fiber Whisper Lid, Raised Air Box, K&N Air Filter, Direct Hits Ignition, Flowmaster American Thunder 3\", 160 Degree Hypertech Thermostat, SLP Fan Switch, 3\" High Flow Cat<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=273903\" target=\"_blank\">My car on Cardomain</a>

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              • #8
                You will not need programming if you go with a fairly mild cam like the supersix 210/214 regrind or the Comp 206/212 - I personally like the comp :D
                2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
                Details: www.1lev6.com

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                • #9
                  Not to be an *** but Higher octane does create more power it has been proven on the dyno.
                  1995 Camaro 3.4 v6. Dead<br />1995 Trans Am FIPK.

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                  • #10
                    just a quick ? how much does the comp cam cost and about how much to have it installed?
                    1997 Firebird Convertable White, with custom Purple pin striping and custom Purple detailing!!!<br />Y87 Performance Package W68 Apperance Package<br />Boydes, aluminum rims 16\" BMR STB <br />SLP Cold Air Intake 3\"hiflow cat 3\" dynomax custom catback, 2.5\" Flowmaster 80. Slp Take off Shocks, Springs And Struts. Transgo shift kit with corvette servo!<br />Sony Explode CD Player Kicker Comp VR 12, and Explode 760Watt amp!!!<br />5% Tint on the side windows, Correction officially 2% on the side windows, or at least that is what the highpo said and 15% on my rear window<br />Yup Purdy Car!!

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                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by zlightning:
                      Not to be an *** but Higher octane does create more power it has been proven on the dyno.<hr></blockquote>

                      it wont create more power. lower octanes burns quicker/better. thus making more power than a high octane gas. the problem comes when your compression is too high and it "explodes" too much and causes knock. your computer will pull your timing then...physically not letting your car have as much power (to protect itself from breaking)- therefore it looks like you have less power. the 3.8s dont have a real high compression from the factory, so running anything over 89 wont really help, unless you are getting some knock for some reason.
                      \'01 TA with boltons, cam <b>11.28@119.72 (1.49)</b><br />\'97 Tahoe LT 4x4- stock

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                      • #12
                        I am interested in the cam specially if it doesn't require expensive programing, but that's a different topic.

                        How much gain realisticaly with the MAF+ over that of the Jet Chip Stage 2?

                        No I don't want to go with gears that would ruin my gas mileage and Matt's helped prove that there is no gain from going to 3.42 gears from 3.23's.

                        I don't care to get lighter wheels or skinnies, I like the stock look that I have it's just the exhaust sound that gives me away.

                        TheBlackSwordsMan, for future reference "FTRA" = Fasttoys Ram Air, it's the first mod listed in my sig, geez.

                        About the octane, it does make the fuel more stable and less likely to ignite. A stock 3.8 computer won't advance the timing enough to take advantage of this but a Jet Chip or MAF+ will. The more octane you have and colder the car is the less likely the Knock Retard will cut back your timing and kill your power.


                        So other than weight reduction and MAF+, does anybody have anything useful to say? Can you actually build a MAF+? I'm already working on getting new plugs, wires and running some Sea Foam through the car.


                        PS, Message forum etiquette, if your sig is already listed in a post and you've already told us what you drive and what's done to it, don't list it again, specially when it's 20 times as long as your post.
                        1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

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                        • #13
                          race gas or 100 octane makes more power because it is better formulated. It has more hydrocarbons and it makes a bigger bang. even in our cars.
                          Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.

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                          • #14
                            of course there aren't any visible gains in going from 89-92 octane. but when you jump up to the 100 octane, you can feel a difference. why do you think it cost so much more?
                            95 quasar blue 3800.<br />K&N, blackout tint,<br />Headlight and tailight blackouts<br />300 watt 10\'s <br />$400 polk highs and mids<br />pioneer DEH-P6300 HU<br />chrome 5 star 15\" rims

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                            • #15
                              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Blue94V6:
                              10 lbs= 1 HP

                              Thought that might help
                              <hr></blockquote>

                              not sure if that is quite correct.... i do know that:

                              100 lbs= .1 in the 1/4 mile

                              scott

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