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  • Car Overheats cont...

    Ok this is continued off another post because I still didn't fix the problem. Basically my problem is that the car's temperature starts rising while im sitting in traffic. If I turn on the A/C it starts rising even more. I have 3 theorys. 1). It's normal for the car to overheat while stopped because there is no air flow where as there would be while you are driving. 2) The a/c generator could be malfunctioning making the engine work harder to turn it and is why it's creating the weird noise, or the engine just works hard turning it as it is and heats quicker. 3). The fans don't work.

    Ok so the first thing I did was change my 195 thermostat to a 180. It now does a good job of staying at 180 while driving. But the temp still rises while stopped and the a/c problem still persists.
    So, I came home and checked both fans with the A/C on, they are both coming on, and both relays are good. So fans aren't the problem.
    With the A/C on I rev the car a little and brake it until the rpms drop around 800. I get that weird noise. I got under the car while person #2 did what I just did and the sound is coming around my transmission area where the Y-pipe is. I guess that explains that horrible noise.

    Now i'm fresh out of good ideas with whats wrong? Is this just normal behavior for a camaro in hot weather?

    Ted

  • #2
    it's normal for any car to run @ a higher temp when idling. it's not normal to overheat. the question is: what's your definition of overheat? if your temp gauge is not hitting red then it's normal.

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    • #3
      When is the last time that the coolant was changed, it might be that. Also, once radiators build up a lot of crud in them, they tend not be be as efficient. You can try just buying a radiator flush kit, but if you haven't had a radiator flush or anything since '96, I'd go to a radiator shop to get it 'rodded out'. They'll also check and fix any pin holes.
      <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

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      • #4
        If you are over heating do this: Change and flush coolant, you can try some redline water wetter, and If your running cool while cruising then get a manual fan switch.

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        • #5
          At idle, the car technically does not overheat. It stays at 180 while driving and at idle tends to raise a little above 210. With the A/C on it raises to the point of no return. It just keeps going until it overheats. I changed the coolant with DexCool about 2 months ago. And flushed it with a water hose. The coolant has turned brownish again and has it's fishy smell back. I'm going to change it again and see if this does the trick. Also shouldn't there be a fan coolant sensor somewhere? I thought maybee I could test it by taking it out after I drain my coolant out. Stick it in a hot bucket of water where I meased the temp in. And see if it will kick on the fans like that. The fans should work without the car fully started up correct? Is it usually expensive to get a radiator rodded out? How much am I looking at?

          Thanks, Ted

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          • #6
            Getting a radiator rodded out is under a hundred bucks if I remember. 70 or 80. Can't be much more than that. Well worth the money if you think about it.
            <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

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            • #7
              You can have jiffy lube flush and fill your coolant for about $40, This would help clean out your system also.

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ted:
                At idle, the car technically does not overheat. It stays at 180 while driving and at idle tends to raise a little above 210. <hr></blockquote>

                this one is normal.

                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ted:
                With the A/C on it raises to the point of no return. It just keeps going until it overheats.<hr></blockquote>

                this might be your problem. seems that the A/C might be slowing down the water pump.

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                • #9
                  The reason that your car gets warmer with the AC on is because the evaporator core is in front of the radiator. When the AC is on in hot climates, the air temp going through your radiator is a lot higher, thus the net rate of energy transfer is reduced signifficantly. When the AC is on, both fans should be operating, which you said they were. It isn't the speed of your water pump creating the over heating, the computer speeds up the engine when the AC is turned on. I don't know what ratio you are using with your coolent though. If it is 100% antifreeze, than that could be part of your problem. What you might try, it to use like a 60/40 or a 70/30 mix with more water than antifreeze. Water absorbs more energy than alcohol and will cool better. The trade off is that water boils at a lower temp than antifreeze. But your cooling system is under pressure, about 9 lbs (I don't know for sure, I think it could be more) but that raises the boiling point of water significantly. Some of the newer cars will reach temps of around 220-230 degrees on a regular basis. Each line on your temp guage is 50 degrees. If it never gets about around 230, then a shop will probably say that it is normal, or they might try to sell you something to make money.


                  But that is just my $0.02
                  1995 Firebird 3.8 A4, 140,000 miles and going strong<br />Basically Stock, college=poor <p>Junior Mechanical Engineering Student: Milwaukee School of Engineering; Cpl, MN Army National Guard...just got promoted :)

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                  • #10
                    Thanks a lot for your help guys. I really appreciate it.

                    Ted

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                    • #11
                      Mine was doing the same thing. Just like your explaining it. My suggestion, even though it seems drastic, change the water pump. Mine was doing the same thing. One day on my way home from work (of course it was pouring down rain) my powerstearing went out and engine temp rose even quicker than it had been normally overheating (which everyone said was nothing). Well come to find out, my water pump had been eating out the back of the casing of its self. My water pump had a saw blade for spindles from where the spindles had rusted off (hince the rusty looking radiator fluid, just as you have, and had eat through the casing so much that the pulley started to wiggle. when this happened it threw the belt. had some one bring me some tools. put the belt back on 3 times trying to get it home. finally ended up leaving it at my sisters house (3 miles from where it first threw teh belt.) I would suggest trying to replace the waterpump. If I recall correctly, it cost me like 50-60 bucks, and this sounds like your problem. very quick installation. rip it off, clean the gasket off, put new gasket and pump on. No big deal, but I would try it before you end up stranded on the side of the road. can't hurt. you've already done all the other stuff!
                      95 quasar blue 3800.<br />K&N, blackout tint,<br />Headlight and tailight blackouts<br />300 watt 10\'s <br />$400 polk highs and mids<br />pioneer DEH-P6300 HU<br />chrome 5 star 15\" rims

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                      • #12
                        Oh yeah, before your replace the waterpump, do this. let the car sit in your front yard and start to overheat. when it starts overheating, kick the rpms up to about 2500 or more and see if the temp starts to drop. if it does, its most likely your water pump eating away at itself.
                        95 quasar blue 3800.<br />K&N, blackout tint,<br />Headlight and tailight blackouts<br />300 watt 10\'s <br />$400 polk highs and mids<br />pioneer DEH-P6300 HU<br />chrome 5 star 15\" rims

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                        • #13
                          Thanks so much fatkidinlittlecamaro, come to think of it I was looking at my belt with the AC on and it was vibrating like something was going on there. It's on pretty good but it looks like something is wrong. I'm definately going to check into this, thanks a lot for your help.

                          Ted

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                          • #14
                            let your car idel listen to here if your fans kick in and blow air.

                            A electirc fan gong out is not unsual. My car is on its 4th, damn florida wreather.

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